General Supercharger Thread

Yes as soon as it was announced that HP Tuners was up on 2020s I pulled the trigger for the Stage 2 and TB+CAI upgrade. Parts were a big delay for all the crap I wanted to get done. With all the shuffle getting slotted for dyno time was the other factor.

 

That is a great point about the air box. It does have a gap where the top panel contacts the wall. You can see it in this picture on the left edge, the gap doesn't seem to be an issue with pulling heat in my case:

 

Interesting data here! Is the the TB needed to run that Prospeed intake?

 

Nope.

 

I don't notice any sound in normal driving but it was something I was concerned about too.

I think I can hear the sound of the TB servo actuating over the airbox. When in boost all I hear is the "whir" sound. I can't notice the airbox It was the Holdener video about intakes that convinced me to get the TB and airbox with a S/C. Is the Holdener effect a thing yet?

As far as performance goes, someone posted a comment that the gains are in the very high end of the band. In my case, overall I'm just shy of 530WHP and just north of 500TQ. I've hit my stopping point on performance mods unless something comes out with electric.

Edit: OK I lied still considering LTH

 

Could be I was having relay issues too and didn't notice it but it was a variable I monitored on my SG2 set up. I daisy chained a SG2 with my SG3 just to eliminate instrumentation as a factor but they both presented the same values.

I'm in the NOVA DC area so we get varied seasons. The 80% to 100% over ambient was very consistent through out all the seasons. Could be I had other issues going on that went unnoticed.

Related segue, someone on a Holdener video posted a comment about an intake sleeve that cools temps down before the MAF. They weren't talking about a heat sleeve either.

 

I’d like to know temp right after intercoolers. How many degrees does it knock off?

 

Probably not but the claim is the stock TB is a constraint. The air is still getting funneled into the Harrop intake which is sized close to the stock diameter.

 

And Holdener is a gift

he is quite the steward to our hobby

 

Would have to be custom to measure.

 

We wanna see the dyno sheet! Was it a chassis or hub dyno and what brand? Awesome numbers. Do you just have the 650 injectors, 80mm, Prospeed intake and RCF TB?

 

That seems pretty bad. On the stock Magnuson intake at speed I see about a 5 degF increase over ambient. I have to be parked for awhile or going really slow to get anywhere near the numbers you listed. I've gotten double the temperature before, but that was from being parked in a drive through for half an hour with AC on full blast.

Am I missing something or does that intake not pull cold air at all?

 

Ditto

we need dyno

 

I agree those numbers are bad, which like he said could have meant his pump wasn’t running at all times. On the magnuson aren’t you reading the intake temps before the intercooler brick, whereas the Harrop has a breakout sensor that is reading after the HX, hence the warmer measured temps? The intercooler ironically I think makes the IAT warmer than it otherwise be under low load/bypass conditions , but under a lot of boost the temp would spike super high without the intercooler to temper it.

 

Yea I'm just pulling temps from the MAF, if his temps are from after the intercooler that would make more sense, it didn't sound like he had a stand alone sensor monitoring post intercooler temps but that's cool if he does. More useful metric imo.

 

I'll post them up, probably in one of an albums when I get a moment to scan them in. Stock was ~300WHP/~330TQ ->Stage 1 ~450WHP/~450TQ.

Dyno jet roller. I'm on stock AT2s.

Yes to all the parts you listed.

 

Yeah I almost brought it up a few months ago when I started monitoring them and had a chance to watch it over a longer period of time.

 

I'm not sure were the measurement is being taken but it is separate from the MAF reading. It is something worth investigating for clarification.

Great point that there may be some configuration differences (we know there are some from Viktor's comparison video) so it may not be an apples to apples comparison Maggie vs Harrop.

What I looked for over time was consistency and the 80% - 100% held up. I think your hunch is correct that it may actually be after the intercooler. Temps are steady even under boost before and after.

 

That is one benefit to the Harrop kit was my understanding. It’s reading actual IATs after the HX which makes more consistent tuning possible, and more precise control over knock. Copied from the Harrop website:

• Plug-in wiring looms for all necessary engine sensors – IAT breakout from MAF sensor, Throttle loom extension and Intercooler pump loom
  

 

soo....the intake temp I'm pulling from the OBD is modified by the Harrop to pull from after the I/C?

soo v2.0 ..."intake temp" that I see in the scanguage menu is now pulling from the Harrop sensor after the I/C.





that's cool...pardon the pun.

 

Good find.

 

As requested so you don't accidentally browse through my dik pic albums. These are smoothing runs, I think the final in a multi-pull series. First one is Stock vs Harrop Stage 1; second is Stage 2 plus the 84mm TB and the PS 4.5inch CAI upgrade:

 

Flat tq. Looks awesome

good tune

 

The whole team working the project were great. Tune guy is a fucking wizard. The LSD install is butter and I don't hear the whine the OEM open diff made. Would do business with Nat Speed again without a question.

 

Great dyno those numbers are perfect congratulations I didn’t realize you were in NOVA that’s where I am and go to National Speed as well, Vlad is the tuner and he is one of the best in the country, He’s done five vehicles for me . When he did my sequoia Magnuson didn’t have a tune for that year to support. A couple things to consider the Dyno room is air-conditioned and has two large fans running with your hood open so you really are not gonna notice it pulling the engine compartment air during the tuning. Personally I would still consider doing something to seal the gap to the inner fender. Second long tube headers take 2-3 psi from your boost away and to get that power back you will need additional mods. IMHO juice not worth the squeeze keep your exhaust. I’m currently chasing power on my Long Travel Tundra that has long tube headers.

 

Sweet. I think they showcased your Tundra on one of the build profiles but I could be mistaken.

Thanks for the heads up on the LTH. I passed this round and am still on the fence. Your comment just tipped me back into the no column.

Next is suspension for me then. Know any good shops?

RE: ProSpeed CAI. I looked at it again last night and it is going to be difficult to completely seal up. The top edge has a about a 1/2 inch gap from the fender wall and there is also a cutout that allows for cabling to be routed between the wall and the box. If I do go through the trouble I'll probably cut a second hole in the wall like the SABM or enlarge the current hole; something I'll have to look into.

 

What mods are you having to do for the headers? Also has anyone had any issues with the torque clamps for the dyno. Yesterday they were not working on my truck.

 

Something like this should work, no? The CAI I had on my Tacoma had this and it sealed that fender gap tight!

 

I'm thinking grommet for cabling holes and RV sweep seal could work maybe insulate as well.

Still concerned about bottle necking airflow into the CAI. Not sure the juice is worth the squeeze if I am already seeing dropped temps; the lower numbers I was seeing were significant enough to made me think something was broken.

The engine bay may not have any enough pressure build up to trap hot air in the bay, at least not on the CAI side.

Don't know if it is a solution looking for a problem.

 

Anything like this stage 2 intake I had on the tacoma available for s/c tundras? It drew air from fender and front grill area.