General Supercharger Thread

Does it stick without the LED tied to the relay?

 

I have not tried cause it would be a pain to undo my wiring, but electrically it wouldn’t make sense that it would cause it to stick. The DRLs draw about 1 amp and are tied into the load side of the relay. I spliced directly into the wire feeding the pump and not the control (trigger) circuit.

 

I don't disagree but if the problem came with the connection of the LEDs to the relay it is likely related to the install unless the relay was damaged or a connection is loose.

 

I do understand your thought, but the issue just started and I’ve had the LEDs wired this way for several months.

 

So the answer was no.

 

I’m wired into the fog backlight too

it happened twice before the fogs, once after

back in my car stereo days, I would have fixed this easy. I had a box of Bosch single pole single throws laying around

today. Not so much

 

I've seen relays get stuck by contact welding in high power applications, I don't think that is the case here especially not if the relay is able to toggle back between the two states.

The more likely culprit can be vibration not sure if it is possible to dampen it in this application but it may be easier and cheaper than replacing it (not that relays are prohibitively expensive).

 

...and I'm still adding about 2oz's of coolant to the intercooler each couple of months.

not complaining...just reminding y'all to check your coolant.

might be because it's already Africa-hot in Houston.

 

No noticeable leaks?

 

not yet.

I'll do a better job looking in a couple weeks, when I do the next oil change.

I use the red stuff, so it should be easy to see....

 

Speaking of inter-coolers....
https://youtu.be/-9usT4F0ITA

 

Ooowie

 

yesssss....

 

I learn every time I watch that dude. (which is not hard when you are me)

 

He is a great explainer. Even his long videos are dense with info.

 

Here goes. Just sent some fresh logs off to ProSpeed.

 

I’ll give mine another look but I think it’s leveled out the last few times I checked. It should eventually work out all of the air pockets and stop needing to be topped off. If it continues to need more added I’d start looking for a leak just in case. I pray none of us ever have to deal with the leaking heat exchanger cores in the blower. Some of the first Harrop units for our trucks had a defect and leaked coolant into the intakes. It killed at least 1 engine I’m aware of. This is probably not the case, but it’s good to be aware anyway.

 

Going to try one of these off Amazon. Seems like the same with with the same normally open contacts. It’s cheap and I’d like to have a backup since I’m hauling the camper to the beach this week.

$7 Black 4-Pin DC 12V 30A Fused Relay,Normally Open Contacts,Car Bike Boat Changeover Relay Automotive

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S294N6L?smid=A2KYTGW2WAT1BY&ref_=chk_typ_quicklook_titleToDp

 

Lead the way! just saw that there's going to be "redeye" TRX, and Raptor R is ready to drop, we going to have to put in extra work to get that "TRXLOL" plate.

 

Don't think I have enough money for that plate.

I'm pretty much at the end of the road unless I do a forged bottom end or build my heads. And I'm told both will make this no longer reliable enough for a daily.

 

Is that what XAT/Prospeed feedback? I'd assume with a built bottom end and 700hp at crank it should be ok as long as we are not under wot at high load constantly.

 

Is it worth the $$$

 

Definitely didn't notice any night and day difference or anything.. But having done just about everything else I can do... Seemed worth it to put the cherry on top.

 

Same reason I kept all the mods on my TRD S/C Tacoma build mild, and NOT wild. Sure the bearings on the s/c needed replacing when I sold it, but it was installed on the truck pretty much since day 1 and got 90k miles on it before I sold with no issues. Will be going the same route when putting the TRD S/C on the Tundra. Want to get many many miles out of this thing!

 

Is the RCF TB and Larger intake from them? I had this on my list of things to add lol

 

Huh? How does a properly assembled forged short block and head work make it any less reliable. Maybe you would see a little more oil usage, but we should all be keeping an eye on that anyways. I'm no expert though and want to learn, so please tell us what you've been told from Prospeed and/or XAT.

 

Yes. I already had the intake but just added the RCF throttle body.

 

This was mostly info from talking to Matt Smith.

Although XAT did tell me they wouldn't want to go too crazy for a street truck either when I was there talking to them. His own truck has the Whipple and nothing more.

 

FYI on Prospeeds own blog when they tested the RCF throttle body modification it added ZERO HP and less than 30 FP of torque and the torque gain was at 6000 RPM

 

Good info