General Supercharger Thread

Well, it pushed me to order the Sonnax kit and line pressure booster. Found them both in stock on ebay within $10 of the lowest price I could find anywhere else.

 

I think clutches wear. It wouldn’t reverse if the convertor was out.

 

Clutches wear and valve body starts leaking

 

Sorry to hear it man, that’s some ass. Let us know what route you choose!

 

This past summer I was poking about the VFT website and noticed the basic tuning guide for the Tundras. Down on pages 19-21 is some information on Tuning Camshafts and VVT and a couple sample base tables for valve angle targets. The tables in HPT and VFT look to me like they're flipped and rotated in relation to one another. For some reason I decided to translate the VFT tables into the HPT tables. If you're interested in experimenting with the VFT tables or just use them as a base, you can just copy/paste them over.

The guide is here: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...ercharger_Basic_Tuning_Guide.pdf?v=1704226390

The tables are at:

• Engine > Airflow > Variable Camshaft > Intake Camshaft > Base

• Engine > Airflow > Variable Camshaft > Exhaust Camshaft > Base

I did try them and am still using them, but didn't really notice anything earth shattering, and am really not able to do any back to back testing just yet. If anyone else wants to give it a go, here they are.

 

Good point.

 

Watching some IPT video he does replace some parts such as the TCC control that is originally aluminum to a steel sleeve alternative that won’t wear out like the original. Seems like a lot of the valves get a steel sleeve to ride in that won’t wear out unlike factory riding in the aluminum valve body bores. There are also parts that get replaced with the sonnax parts with o rings and lubrication grooves. At least John puts videos out explaining what the heck he is actually doing with the valve body. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pjcsTGiK_jw

 

@ARES35 what milage on your truck? How many miles with he SC?

 

I watched a lot of his videos on the AB60 VB. You are correct on the sleeve. But, I personally had wear in a 47k trans VB that no sleeve is available. Only thing was to replace the piston. Whether that updated piston is better or not remains to be seen. I pretty much did everything that John does to the VB with the exception of 2 metal sleeves. You have to have jig for that to be done right. He also does switch out the springs on the 3 pistons that are in the trans for a more firm shift.

 

84k. Supercharger went on approx 75k or so. Also transmission fluid changed before super and again this Monday.

 

It does make sense that if you let the fluid get dirty and grainy you will get faster wear in the valve body aluminum bores which allows leakage and is what reduces the pressure in the clutches, if I’m following this correctly.

 

How about I just send you the tune

 

Even better. I found a couple TRD tunes on HPTuners forum repository, but none have pressure tables.

 

Search my name on the repository, I should've posted it on there. Otherwise I'll email it to you whenever I leave the couch.

 

Found a local trans guy could be an option.

 

Looks like he forgot to pay GoDaddy or whoever hosts his webpage.

 

Ok big brake guys...

 

I have heard 2 sides to this. One is, change it often so that it's always clean fluid. The other is let it be till the recommended interval. Take it with a grain of salt, like I do, but Car Care Nut advises against doing frequent oil changes for some reason about what you mentioned. The grit and stuff keeps the worn parts sealed. But one can argue that if you keep it clean then there is less wear. Same thing for engine oil. We all hate the 10k oil interval and the trans oil, I think is no different. So yes, I believe that leaving all that grit flowing around is what does cause wear. Also considering that apparently the trans filter isn't really a filter apparently per se. I have personally done 4 changes already. 1 of those was when I did the trans cooler and the other one was when I did the VB kit. I am currently at 50k.

 

Once the clutches start to deposit material in the atf the vb starts to wear and can't hold line pressure. Biggest short coming of the ab60. My first trans crapped out in 2nd gear with 70k.

 

Three curiosities: can you drain some fluid and see what's in it? Magic sparkles, beach slurry, iron man's breakfast...? Smell it. Maybe taste it - if you're in to that kind of thing... Secondly - don't hate me for asking, but are you confident that you had the fluid at the right level after the fluid exchange? Thirdly, what fluid were you using? Like I said, don't hate me for asking, I mean no disrespect...



I've replaced and/or rebuilt a few transmissions on other vehicles - which by no means makes me an expert, but the fluid always told a tale post mortem. After a few, it was simpler to tell what had failed and was kind of like being Encyclopedia Brown - but from interpreting the rune-like entrails and lifeblood of the transmission splayed out on the ground...

On the subject of worn valve bodies or valve body parts.. once upon a time, I had a 94 Chevy 2500 camper special. It was kind of an odd duck in that it was really a light 3/4 or heavy 1/2, depending on which side of the truck you looked at: 6 lug wheels, semi-floating 9.5" ring gear 14 bolt rear axle, 3/4 ton brakes, 350 TBI, and a 4L60 transmission (which the transmission shop swore would be a 4L80 when I bought parts for it; had to return them all and bring the case in to show them it was in fact a 4L60). But it was actually a great truck.

Anyways, it had 1st, and 3rd, but slipped really bad in 2nd. If you made it to 4th, it also slipped really bad. Fluid was burnt, lots of beach sand in it, some magic sparkles, too. 2nd gear clutches were disintegrated and the steels looked like they'd be fished out of a volcano. I rebuilt the transmission with clutches, steels, seals, a few hard parts, and a shift kit in the valve body. Test drive and 2nd feels soft. A few miles on it and 2nd is banging in to gear if you are on it, but it holds enough to go to 3rd. Turned out the shift solenoid was bad (bore was worn, seal was leaking). The solenoid itself Ohm'd out ok, but the internals were worn and the seal was leaking. New shift solenoid and o-ring and the truck was right as rain. Shifted perfectly.

Point is - the truck had 220k miles on it and I doubt the transmission had ever been serviced. The valvbody failure was clear and easy to trace back, which caused catastrophic failure of that one set of clutches and steels, ruining the entire transmission. The other clutches and even the band were still in decent shape, given the mileage. But that 1-2 shift always takes abuse in that transmission because of the gearing difference between the two. Add a camper or a trailer and you just multiply the stress. Don't maintain it, and I'm not surprised that the failure was in that clutch pack.

So I'd wager @Silver17 and @Mdl understanding of the the failure mode is fairly accurate.

 

did you have an oil analysis done on either of those changes?

 

You bet I can, ill be ripping into the pan here shortly after contact
with Toyota. Had the trans only serviced by Toyota. I assumed they used WS and checked proper level. Both times it was serviced they did not say a thing about metal sparkles or color. Here is the service invoice from Monday.

 

That's a negative. Transmission has always felt strong with crisp shifts and smooth operation entire time ive owned it......until recently.

 

I see ATFWS World Standard on the invoice . . .

 

Assuming the calipers are good and depending on what pads/rotors cost that is a deal. After all my BS getting them, I might be selling the TRD BBK, between building a new BMW motor & other associated mods on it, I need to stop spending.

Also, anyone interested in e85, I ordered a kit for the BMW & they have a 350 off deal ending today:

https://eflexfuel.com/us

No affiliation, not my shop.

 

Who designed this power steering setup with the lines zig-zagging across the engine bay like they had a deal with the supplier to use 300% more line than necessary so they could get their kickbacks?!?!?!!?

/rant

Seriously though, this power steering line setup is just dumb, and in the way of my oil cooler project.

 

The pressure line from the pump makes 2 U-turns before going back to the rack, maybe they designed like that to reduce the pressure over the length of the run? I'm going to channel my inner Project Binky and make a couple brackets to get it out of my way.

 

That's the cooling loop is my understanding

 

When @snivilous was helping me sort out my misfire issue he sent me a tune with vvt exhaust cam spark base and HO zeroed out to try and base/Lo/HO spark the same. He didn't see any change or much improvement. Think he stated it was a prospeed thing to try out.

 

I'll take a gander at those tables to see if anything makes sense or gives me any ideas.