General Supercharger Thread

I'm planning on trying that Mobil 1 0w40 European car next oil change. According to Bob is the oil guy forums it's made from nicer base stuff and has more something-or-other that makes it good for performance vehicles

 

If you are going to be so technical, how am I supposed to understand???

Lol

 

There's only one rocket scientist on this thread, and it ain't me.

 

Just observations on my 17 transmission. I'm currently running the TRD values. Furthermore for some reason since I'm a 17 and FFV I do not have as many tables as the non FFV trd tune, line pressure and a couple others. Anyway right after a fresh tune I have to play nice. In D Can feel harsh shifting, transmission hunting and slight clunking all when just driving normally. This usually smooths out more mile i put on it. Also a couple of times when going WOT in D I have felt what seemed to be slipping. Can't confirm this bit when this has happened i let off immediately. Then it eventually goes away. Now in T/H these symptoms are much less. Most pronounced thing felt is gear hangup. Once I let off the throttle when its hanging up, it'll shift down. Over all driving in T/H is a smoother experience for me. And after a few hundred miles everything feels much better. Fluids were changed less then 10k at Toyota.

 

I believe the gear hang up is supposed to happen in tow/haul. Its useful when you’re towing and want some engine breaking.

 

I may be calling it wrong. It'll stay in say 4th after wot. I'll let off right before a gear change, coast, rpm drops, hit the gas and nothing. Then let off the gas, it'll downshift. Mash gas and I'm off.

 

Hate to say it but this is what my truck did a few months ago. Hope it’s not the same thing but it felt like the beginning of the end

 

I will say this. Mobil1 5w-40 has a lower API rating than Quaker State 5w-40. Both are European formulas. I just put QS in and will run it for 2 oil changes and send a sample off and compare.

 

Hate to ask this because it’s so general and everyone has their 0.02 to add in… but bottom line- why not just run the Mobil 1 (pick a synthetic brand that tickles your fancy) and run Toyota spec 0-20 that their engineers chose for the motor? I’ve never run anything but that and knock on wood, I’m at 177 and the motor is very healthy. 5k oil changes.

 

Truck has been doing this since i first started tuning. Ive probably fubared it and its on the way out.

 

An oil thread!?

 

quaker state doesnt have a 0w40 european car, but the QS euro 5w40 and m1 0w40 are both SP API. I've tried 5w-30 before and it made my engine noisy on cold starts, so Im sticking with 0w-30 or 40 now

 

engineers didnt choose 0w20, toyota spec 0w20 in the US to squeak out every mpg they can. other countries with the same exact engine call for thicker oil

 

OFFTOPIC WARNING, scroll away if that's offensive........







This happened in the Z3 & killed a plug (hopefully that's all it did)...

Hoping the unburnt fuel caused the oil to stick to the plug & that's why it is caked, piston looks like all the rest, Valve cover was damaged during the engine installation & has been leaking, it started leaking worse when this happened I have had a new one for months so in it goes.

 

Well, for me, I just like to switch it up for no special reasons other than I can and just for fun I guess. As for the so called Toyota engineers, well that has been discussed here to no end. My take on the so called engineers and 0w-20, is that it's not a engineered choice but rather a EPA/CAFE standard that all manufs have to adhere to. Only in the US is the 5.7 specd for 0w-20, but yet elsewhere it's specd from 0w-20 all the way to 25w-50. Just like some believe the engineers and run their oil to 10k. Same reason oil is now down to 0w-8. What's next?
Then when it comes to a supercharged engine, thicker is better, IMO and to many others that run forced induction. Can you imagine 0w-8 in a 600, 700, or even a 1000HP engine. I think not.

 

Yeah, I was quoting what I currently have here at the house. Both 5w-40 and Mobil is lower API. Walmart use to carry 40 in Penzoil platinum but it seems many aren't carrying many choices in the 40.

 

Yea, I wish there were more readily available options for 0w30 and 40.

 

Nice clean internals. You must do 3k oil changes with some super fancy oil and add some additives to clean it out.

 

I use Castrol & the motor has under 1k lol

 

I used to run 0-40 in summer, 0-30 winter. Now I mix 3qts 30 and 5qts 40 for a heavy 30 or light 40 year round.

 

Dump a little whiskey in there. Thins out the mix. Good for another 50 RPM

 

On the oil topic, my E46 M3 runs 10w-60, and costs $130 an oil change doing it myself.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-373590-oem-inspection-ioil-service-kit/

 

That's sucks that is going on. Have you tried lowering rpm in the shift table for 3-4 and 4-5? Just make sure you do it for normal and fault.

 

Im no oil expert but have an educated guess opinion I’ll gladly share like the rest of you animals probably do. I personally don’t see 0w20 being adequate for a 650-700hp engine running 8-10psi if you drive it hard. A NA 5.7 it will probably never matter. Thinner oil generally has lower film strength and shear stability which isn’t great under high heat and high loads. It’s probably not necessary to guess though with used oil analysis. I did UOA with pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 and received great results with as good if not better wear metals compared to the tundra averages as per blackstone despite the much higher horsepower, spirited driving and frequent towing. I think I’ll stick with that. It’s also more than adequate for cold weather starting in my region. If I lived in Florida I’d probably go even thicker. To be fair, I never did UOA with 0w20. @nobodyintexas did it for both though as I recall, and I think 5w30 had less wear metals? Maybe he will chime in.

 

I haven't. After about 2-400 miles it's stops that hang-up. Figured maybe tune learning related but idk.

 

So 5-30 or 5-40 on boosted 5.7? happy to change if that’s what is better.

edit. Just bought 5-30 for the next change in a week

 

Kirklands 5w-30 had less wear that Kirklands 0w-20. Blackstone.

and I've run Kirklands almost exclusively.

and both had strong TBN after 5k miles.

and the amsoil that someone else posted here - looked remarkably like the kirklands after 5k.

 

post 623

https://www.tundras.com/threads/switching-to-5w30.64203/page-21#post-3550274

 

It would only be to ease the transmission if it was having an issue.

 

i forgot what i went up to but i believe i bumped the oil grade up one