General Supercharger Thread

@blenton yup...as I was mowing the lawn I remembered talking to Keith about my system transiting to a SC. I had his true dual 3 inch system with LTH being NA. Once I installed the SC with smaller ASP pulley with straight mids but knew it needed a little restriction. It ran great but added in a 200 cell cat, got a little low end back. Then added another 200 cell and was even better. We thought the 400 cell worked well with the 3 inch on a SC that didn't lose too much low end.
A while ago I imploded one cat so I gutted the 2 front 200 cells. I haven't given it much thought until today and after severely upgrading mods the past 2 years...so I picked up the magnaflow 400 cell cats used on the SPD system to weld in and see what it does.
Edit: not add restriction but aid in velocity and reversion.

 

Running flow numbers, I would love to get someone to fab up an exhaust 2.75" from the collectors back to an x pipe, in to a single 3.5" or 4" muffler and tailpipe. At 550 HP, that flows nearly identical numbers to the factory exhaust. If we are judging strictly by exhaust flow, trying to match the factory exhaust flow at the mid pipes, 2.5" pipe is good to 470 HP, 2.75" up to 570 hp, 3" up to 677 hp, 3.25" up to 795 HP.

On the muffler/tailpipe side which is less important/accurate to supporting HP but still relevant, going off of the factory flow numbers again, 3.5" muffler/tailpipe is good for 518 HP, 3.75" for 595 HP, 4" for 677 HP, 4.25" for 764 HP, and dual 3" for 762 HP. Dual 2.75" tailpipe would be good for 762 HP. Sounds perfect.

 

Good video on this back pressure shenanigans

https://youtu.be/2tZYJHtXG9s?si=5P_0KsrgJa8DgWco



https://youtu.be/DvMBbojZpII?si=_74FpVT4NvfkTf0q

 

I have the DD (Keith said not to install my long tubes) & it was great, I added SPD highflow downpipes, no huge change in sound, feels like more power.

 

yeah so from what im piecing together i can leave my stock 1st cats in and go 3 back to x pipe and then to the muffler and still be fine.
i read a few showung that somewhere from 300-400 and up a 3" is best and considering ours with SC is pushing much more . im also running a smaller Snjv pulley

 

@reywcms thanks. I try to talk in scavenging/velocity. The second video reminded me the rest info for the 400 cell with long tubes and 3 inch exhaust was for keeping reversion in check...I believe.

 

I just saw another video for Moto iq, the second video posted up^^^ there. Figs Engineering make 2 different BBK for the tundra. The really BBK is 410mm, wow. Then they make a 355mm kit. Pretty impressive engineering that went into those 2 BBK.

 

Ok, so I just did some research. Since we were talking about a few pages back, I would like to bring it back. BBK. Like I said, I just saw from Figs engineering that they make a BBK also, 2 actually. I got to looking and the tundra has 355mm front rotors from factory, correct, yes. Ok, so explain why Alcon, Figs, SOS Performance, etc say BBK for the tundra but are still the OEM size of 355mm. Now Figs and SOS make a kit that's actually bigger than the OEM one. The Alcon and SOS 355mm kits have 6 piston calipers. The Figs 355 is 4 piston but has a floating rotor and radial mount instead of ear mount. I am sure they all have more pad area than OEM also. So, why are they calling a 355mm rotor a BBK if it's the same size as OEM? If I wouldn't have searched I would have thought that those BBK have bigger rotors than OEM.

 

355mm is pretty massive so as it is. That’s 14”. It’s the same rotor diamater as the Heavy duty trucks on the market. It would seem they’re really just lacking the extra grab from 6 piston calipers.

 

They are massive, no dough. But I was always under the impression that these companies advertising their BBK, were actually bigger than OEM. I was considering looking into a kit and today is the day I find out this new info. They had a Alcon group buy a few months back and I was temped, but never read anywhere that they are actually the same size as OEM just that you get 6 piston calipers. So with that in mind, I guess you can make these BBK fail just as quick as OEM brakes and that only the really bigger rotors will handle heat better, brake fade.

Also since the rotor size doesn't change, cant you just buy the 6 piston calipers?

 

Like you mentioned, the 355mm BBK from Alcon uses a six piston caliper and significantly larger pads for a marked increase in braking. More pistons/piston area produces more pressure on the pad and higher clamping force. Larger pad reduces clamping force but increases swept area/friction surface while decreasing brake fade. Balancing the two determines your brake force, feel, and modulation. Alcon increases both piston force and pad area for a drastic increase in braking performance. Other kits sometimes retain the 4 piston caliper with slightly oversized pistons and sometimes larger pads for increased braking performance. IMO, a six piston caliper is the better route for a true brake upgrade.

A larger rotor increases the leverage or braking torque on the wheel compared to a smaller rotor, given the same clamping force. But large rotor BBK’s typically require larger wheels. The Alcon kit fits with an 18” wheel (and some 17’s) which is why they use a 355mm rotor.

 

You are correct on some using a 4 piston, FIGS does, but they also use a floating rotor and the caliper is radial mounted, which supposedly are 2 good things. The kit Figs sells is from RB performance and according to their website you can buy their 2 piece rotors and use it with the OEM brake calipers. So, can we buy the 6 piston caliper for Alcon and it work with the OEM rotor?

 

Diameter is only part of the equation. Rotor density is significantly greater than the oem units. Larger caliper more pistons more clamping force and the rears are larger than the oem units. The stopping power of the Alcons is no joke. No fade nothing. Yes you can do the other kits but the Alcon kits fit in a 17” wheel the others do not

 

Thats a negative on the six piston Alcon caliper being compatible with OE rotors. They are designed to work with Alcon pads that are much bigger and don’t fit OE rotors.

Rotors are designed to absorb and dissipate a specific amount of heat. Material, thickness, design, venting, etc, all play a part in that capacity. Part of a BBK is usually rotor upgrades as well - and not just drilled or slotted upgrades. So really, it’s the entire system design that makes for the upgrade. Piecing parts together can lead to adverse effects but usually smoke rotors quickly even if they physically fit.

 

Also I take the motoiq guy with a grain of salt. We got into a debate about a larger front kit and stock rear he said it’s plenty and some bs about the Alcon kit not performing well. Lol bbk front and a stock rear is not great. I’ve tested that. And a complete kit is the way to go.

 

Exactly. Pick up an oem rotor vs the Alcons it’s not even close lol it’s wild

 

Yeah I saw where you did the front first then the back and it made a big difference.

 

Here’s the difference in rears lol

 

You beat me to it! Ya, it’s no joke. OE brakes are awesome for OE brakes. But they don’t hold a candle to those Alcons.

 

The rear make a huge difference considering they are only a single piston.

 

Well week one of 3 without the Tundra. In the shop for hail repair. So been ricing it out in the speed 3! I did readjust rear dampers, threw in a race transmission mount, race shifter cables and a HKS ssqv bov.. I do miss the Tundra though and can't wait to have it back undented and straight!

 

Can anyone with both a Harrop and RCF TB comment on if the rubber boot fits over the 84mm TB without struggling to the point of throwing everything in a fit of rage? I know I’ll never take the boot off the magnuson intake lid for example. That was a PITA to stretch on.

 

I don't have the Harrop, but assuming the intake tube the same size being a stock throttle body to start with, I had to fight my intake tube a little to stretch it over the RCF throttle body. I'm also assuming the Harrop intake tube is a bellowed rubber/silcone tube? I ask because my Whipple intake tube is a muti-layer wrapped fiber rubber impregnated tube but I switched to a larger Magnuson intake tube and upper air box which is bellowed like a stock tube.

I left my intake tube in the sun for a bit to warm it up and soften it before stretching it over the RCF TB. I installed the tube on the RCF before installing the airbox lid or PCV tubes so I wasn't fighting the other end and had more room to move it around. But it was certainly shoehorned on with some effort....

 

My main concern is I need to take the lid off the airbox from time to time to clean the filter. For now, I do this by removing the tube from the TB since ain’t no way I’m slipping it on and off the airbox lid with ease. I hate to make it a struggle on both ends just to do air filter maintenance.

 

Ahh, I hear ya. I wasn't reading closely enough. I had the same concern after having to fight the intake tube on to the RCF the first time. Luckily, I pulled the intake tube and lid the other day to check plug gap and it was MUCH easier to slip the intake back on to the RCF. I kept the intake attached to the lid and popped the lid and intake tube off as one unit. I think the engine heat cycled enough to set the intake tube diameter a little better to the slightly larger TB. It went back together almost like stock.

 

Does HPT or silicone intakes make a coupler in the right size length? I used a HPT one that was 4 inches long. Also you could throw a little di-electric grease on the TB lip to get it to slip on.

 

Silicone spray and a heat gun were my aids.

 

Az sun & silicone spray were my friend.

 

That’s true, getting it together the first time might suck, but once it’s been on and baking in the engine bay for a while there’s a good chance it will slide on and off a lot easier in the future.

 

Calipers will be delivered Thursday assuming UPS doesn't mess up.
https://vimeo.com/1012229943?share=copy