General Supercharger Thread

Guess she arrived early

 

So what’s the deal with the old one then? Was it a bad batch of superchargers that went out? And did it cost you anything? Pretty sweet if that’s a whole new blower at minimal cost.

 

Not sure if it was an off run of them. But said there was an alignment issue of the inlet and housing may have caused premature failure of the couplers. Full replacement zero cost to me other than me shipping back to them.

 

And we’re back.

 

Looking nice under there!

 

Nice! Did you swap out the coils back to stock ones? I'd like to find a shop that can see what the dwell is doing on the 8arfts coils. I really can't tell the difference driving wise but would like to see what the ecu is doing, if anything...

 

The charts I posted is what the ECU will use for dwell time for the coils used on that respective motor. It's defined by the ECU. To get anything different, it would have to be mapped.

You may never experience any perceived/felt difference. But using the 3UR coil settings, the 8AR coils are not fully charged and thus are not delivering their full 'strength' discharge.

 

Nope kept the Lexus ones in

 

Thanks! I was just curious if the ecu would do anything more. Appreciate the response and info.
Could be the butt dyno effect but it does "feel" more responsive. I did a few wot runs yesterday and today to 5th gear at 6k rpm and it was operating nicely.

 

Been slammed and on travel but finally got the truck sorted....

MuddaEffing Catch Can!! Who ever called out PCV was right. Tightened the fitting good2go now. Still get a slight AFR and Boost oscillation at idle but I suspect that is due to the rearward position of the O2 changing the timing of the feedback loop.

Thanks to all shouting out troubleshooting suggestions. I don't care what the Ford guys say about y'all, you are the finest Tundra loving wrench turners one could ask for.

Edit: Tip always do the throttle relearn after disconnecting the batt to reset the ECU. Even though I had fixed the issue it persisted until I did the relearn.

For relearn put the vehicle in accessory mode and depress accelerator down slowly three times, all the way down. You should here the throttle body servo each time. Shut off and restart.

 

So what is the verdict on this thing or is the jury still out? Not that I am looking to buy just curious.

What is the theory of operation? I see the two extra intputs are using engine coolant to keep the temps up. Are the other two inputs for Crank and PCV with a return line? Thanks.

 

Yes sir, theory is the coolent running through the can heats the oil mix and vaporizes the fuel in the milkshake, I believe. The kit had no instructions and was missing parts imo. Probably wrong but I T'ed the 2 valve cover hoses to the top of the can. Middle hose went to the pcv value on the motor. Then I took the lowest hose to the intake for vacuum. Sides are the coolent lines to the throttle body. Like I said I winged it and even ran out of loose nipples and used a plumbers brass 90 at the intake lol. All had until I get some actual nipple there

PS. Used their website pics to guess the best I could until I can get confirmation from them.

 

Thank you. Now does it come in gold? Asking for a friend...

 

Anyone want a job? Spelling optional...lol...TECHNITION!!!

 

I've never really understood...why are automotive technicians required to bring their own tools? I've never needed to provide my own IT tools for a job...

 

I never loved drain backs or vented in certain climates.

 

Who else would make it possible for the SnapOn and Matco dudes to have mobile careers

 

Some shops do and most independent ones. I would help my brother get some special tools at his job. The other mechanics wouldn't loan him them. Back in 1997 when I was thinking of getting out of the service and work for Cummins or Detroit Diesel I needed my own tools. I believe that has changed though.

 

Cuz tools grow legs…

 

Okay update on the CORRECT hose routing on this V2 for anyone curious. So I had the intake tied through to the can, that's wrong. I was losing substantial boost psi that way. Its Passenger side valve cover to bottom front, driver side to top front. Then middle front to PCV. Coolant lines are right, one from thermostat to can, can to TB. Cap supercharger nipple. This completely vta's under the truck, nothing going through the intake.

 

makes me just want to get another cheapie CC and run the valve cover vents to it then to the intake. i already jave the coolant bypassed

 

Most people never see any oil in their CC catch cans only in PCV.

 

It's tough loaning tools. They magically disappear. When we have guys starting out I'll loan tools because it's usually basic stuff that they can't screw up. As they start doing bigger jobs and needing more expensive stuff I don't loan them anymore. And I NEVER loan taps or drill bits because they get ruined somehow every time. I tell them it's the turning point where they need to decide if this business is for them or not. You either decide to invest in yourself and start buying expensive tools or you say F this I'm out.

 

I'm not a mechanic and I have a ton of expensive tools. I would not loan them.

 

Good fortune did not last long but it looks like I was dealing with multiple issues.

Initial drive idle and cruising AFRs were solid. Drove around no issues.

Next morning misfires on even cylinders 10 seconds into start up idle;Misfire 2,4,6,8 and the code for multiple misfires. One bank reads -3 other side is -18 for LTFT.

Fouled O2? If so clean or replace?

 

Replace...lame!

 

I tried cleaning first but usually only lasts a day. You'll likely be replacing it.

 

Figure. Thank you both. Hopefully it isn't one of the other more difficult problems to resolve.