General Supercharger Thread

With the fluid level dictated by the overflow drain, what benefit might you speculate would this offer? My initial visualization of the relationship between the pick up tube and the level of the fluid doesn't seem to change, unless I'm missing some aspect.

 

Oil sloshes, so having the pick up the same distance as stock from the pan bottom seems like a good idea.

 

This makes sense and was the only thing that I could think of, but I was trying to visualize what the fluid would do in that situation and just struggle a bit not being versed at all in fluid dynamics. Thanks.

 

Are there any differences between the TRD air box and the magnuson? I read somewhere that you can’t use the Trd lid with the magnuson lower or something along the lines but I can’t find it. I just got a free magnuson intake from a tvs2650 take off

 

So riddle me this...

For a N.A. truck like mine, this product changes the torque curve?

Torque comes on earlier in the low to mid RPM range as the manufacturer states.

Negligible HP/ torque gains overall from what I was able to read on some Tacoma/4Runner forums. Some claims of more torque coming on at 1000rpm's lower in the powerband.

Neat product that I'd be interested in as I've usually got 500-700lbs in the bed daily.

<----complete newb regarding any of these types of engine mods.

Snake oil?

 

The N/A intake plenum has this valve that moves altering the length of the path that the intake air takes before entering the cylinders. I'm just going from (a less than perfect) recollection on this, but that intake runner length influences the tq/hp curve to some degree at particular RPMs, and I gather that this plenum essentially extends that length theoretically (I haven't viewed any data myself) increasing that effect.

I posted about it as I noticed that they were now up for sale and that there are few others here who mentioned it before, their full interest level is unclear.

 

Pics from the 3rd valve cover reseal.

They think there is an irregularity in the spark plug tube.

 

Maybe I'll pick one up and have @snivilous install it for "science". He is my down the way neighbor after all.

 

I have been running my trans T-Stat pinned open and I still haven't seen anything above 180-190 even getting on it or in heavy traffic. Now just cruising I am at around 165-175, ball park if memory serves. This is with the a Setrab cooler also. Is anyone running an aluminum pan, cooler and the T-Stat pinned? I am just wondering if you have a cooler, is the trans pan even needed.

I have been waiting for the Sonnax Zip Kit which seems to be on backorder. New ship date was supposed to be July 19. We shall see.

Update. Scratch that, now it's Aug 5. IPT must be using up a lot of these kits or something, lol.

 

I thought the tubes couldn't come out? I remember something about needing new heads or something because there is no tube seals on the bottom and they are pressed in.

 

I've been slowly wandering out the "don't pin the T-stat, Toyota designed it that way!" camp to the "wonder if this will help with some cooling..." camp. Might have to pin it for the rest of the summer.

As a somewhat related topic, I have been monitoring Engine Coolant Temps more closely this week. I purchased a Banks iDash to monitor more engine parameters (BIG mistake, pile of garbage, IMO; won't even display transmission temp) and was watching ECT's while towing my smaller enclosed. 90 degree day, breezy but not windy by any means. 800' elevation gain or so over a 75 mile trip, then back up over the 800' elevation gain and back down the same 75 mile route home.

ECT on the highway around 70 MPH was 204-207*

ECT sitting in the parking lot waiting for a buddy for 15 minutes after driving 30 mins on the highway climbed up to 212* WHAT?

ECT jumping back on the highway dropped to 190* as the cooling fan roared for a few miles.

ECT climbed back up to 204-207* going through some hilly areas - enough to drop one gear just to get some RPM, but never needing to drop two gears.

I can get in to 2 PSI of boost before the trans wants to downshift, so 67 mph wants to shift down, 73 mph stays locked in gear. But ECT's didn't vary much between the gear. And since the iDash fails to display trans temp, I'm not sure where that was sitting. Just tried to keep it off the converter.

Anybody have any ideas for those temps? Good, bad, try this? I did a coolant exchange 18 months ago or so. New Toyota water pump was installed with the SC in January, but I didn't replace the thermostat. I'm debating a low temp unit, but it gets cold here in the winter.

 

I have no idea, hopefully not (I want my truck back) but if so, they are on the hook, it did not leak before they did the timing cover fix. They pulled the tube out today.

 

The same camp said , Toyota designed the Trans to run hotter and have the temp light come on. I am in the camp of keeping things cool is better than hot. Obviously you don't want it to be too cool. But considering there is fiber material, plastic and rubber inside a Trans, I will stick to having it pinned open so it stays cooler than factory.

As for your engine temps, seems about normal to me. I usually am around 194-197 cruising and it creeps up in traffic. I would have replaced the t-stat though once you did the water pump.
Another member did buy a lower temp t-stat, don't remember the outcome though. It's a few pages back I believe.

 

Heres a post from another forum back in 2015. Oil in spark plugs.

 

Which TRD air box? The one that comes with TRD supercharger or the "TRD performance" one. The SC one has a larger MAF housing diameter to match the Magnuson one. The TRD performance one is the same diameter as stock.

As to air filters and box bottoms, they changed the size in 2014? Someone correct me and I'll edit it. Mine is a 2007, so the Maggy box fits perfectly on the stock lower.

 

Hopefully it is fixed, they kept it another night "to let the sealant cure"

I'll find out today.

As far as pinning the trans thermostat, mine has been pinned for over a year in Phoenix (current average temp 110) The transmission runs at a max of about 180. (I have an OEM cooler I added)

 

They just called, still leaking. They are ordering a tube.


GAAAAA

 

Sooooo it has been determined the tubes are part of the head.

I'm thinking no thanks, not wanting them to pull the head.

What do you guys think? Leave it alone or make them make it right?

 

So my Magnum TVS2650 Tundra 5.7L Supercharger install is scheduled for next week at the Toyota dealership service shop. Really excited but also nervous. I hope everything goes well.

Anything I need to tell or remind the shop to do? This master tech has done several installs but if there is anything I need to ask or watch for now will be a good time to know

 

The install is pretty straight forward. Especially if the tech has already installed them. I would just sit back and let him do his thing. Then just smile the first time you put your foot to the floor.

 

Maybe be nice and take it in with 1/4 tank or less of super so the tank is lighter to drop. Then fill up before you go WOT the first time.

 

Yeah great call on the gas. I plan to get there almost empty if I can.

One big problem for me is to remember from this point on to put 93 gas I may need a big red or yellow sticker to remind me, as I always do 89

 

My planned tank drops were on empty, the unplanned full. Full sucks!

 

Who is they? I wonder what they used as a sealant? I would think for that you would need a liquid type, like loctite or Mercury makes a form of liquid gasket sealant, its great. Like I said, I had read about this issue and thought that it was messed up that Toyota would make part that requires a head replacement for a simple tube that could have been made to have a gasket or sealant. I get frustrated with all this tech nowadays. The 3.4 TT is going to be a nightmare when it comes time for DYIers to fix it. I hope they fine a way to stop the leak.

 

Me personally, I would just go over everything you can see once you get it back home. Look over all the clamps, bolts, nuts, tie straps, etc. Even a tech that has done them before can forget something, human error. This was my second SC install and I wrench on all my stuff. Even following the instructions to the T, I missed a clamp because I took a break. Shit happens.

 

It is at Toyota of Tempe, I had an extended warranty expiring in '23 took it to them, to go over the truck, they said the cam tower was leaking & sealed it. They redid the valve cover in April because piston 1 spark plug tube was still full of oil then & it is back there because it is still leaking.

 

So Toyota dealer and warranty. HELL YA make them make it right. I am amazed they are trying to fix it since apparently the only fix is a new head.

 

Dam thats crazy....

 

Make sure they pull the brass plug at the boost port, as someone doing an install of a 2650 as I post this, knowing that and doing it before it was on the blower was invaluable. Even if you don't want to hook anything up to it, better to get it removed and then thread it back in at a normal tightness so you don't have to drill it out later.

 

Yea fuck that, all you need is for it to snowball and then you need a new engine and out weeks or months. I think I have two or three tubes that are leaking. The plugs that come out the top is gross looking, but not like it's actually affecting anything that matters.