General Supercharger Thread

I installed my Maggy 1900 at 121k. Running perfectly at 142k.

I have a Sequoia, with my mods it's been the perfect vehicle for me.

 

It happens a lot! No harm, no foul.

 

So me wife said "yes to the dress" IT IS ON Time to play with some toys.

 

This is the one right?

$115 CravenSpeed FlexPod Gauge Mount Compatible with Toyota Tundra 2007-2021

https://www.amazon.com/CravenSpeed-FlexPod-Toyota-Tundra-2007-2017/dp/B008G5552E

 

It's what I have.

 

Popped the hood on the truck last night and got a few things installed.



Got my stock intake lid and Whipple intake tube swapped for a Magnusson unit last week. Whipple uses spacers to tilt up intake lid angle for a straighter shot into the SC snout. Magnusson tilts the outlet of the upper lid to achieve the same thing. After ordering intake pipe and couplers and reducers and parts galore to make it work, my dumb self realized I just need to remove the spacers that Whipple supplied and the intake tube was pretty close to lined up.






Last night I started with an RCF throttle body install with an adapter. Fairly straightforward just hope I got the o rings seated well. It moves the TB about 1/2” toward the airbox which worked out better than the stock TB, Whipple SC, and magnusson intake concoction.












My TB coolant lines were a little short for the RCF TB, so I guess I’m going with a throttle body coolant line bypass for now. Some 5/16” fuel line and a couple of new clamps ought to sort it out later. Might see if I can get my hands on the Lexus in-line Tstat @Jowett posted up somewhere and plumb it in.



Unfortunately, one of the coolant hose fittings was leaking once I moved the clamps around and of course, I got done 3 minutes before the auto parts store closed. Luckily, I was able to cut it down enough to make it seal ok until I can get some new tubing. I was going to try throwing a work clamp on there but I couldn’t find one in my parts bin the right size that wasn’t gacked.



I also had a smaller pulley sitting in the box. With the bigger intake, my MAF looked to have more room so I decided to go for it. 3.375” from Whipple. Pulley swap was easy enough I could do it one handed while I held tension on the belt tensioner with the other hand.



Took it for a rip and did some logging. I haven’t looked super close at the log yet, but I don’t think I saw more than 1 psi increase in boost. Not sure if that’s good or bad, but it is what it is. Maybe have a little belt slip? I’m logging boost via the ProLink but I still haven’t sorted out how close my logged boost is to being accurate but going off what u saw on the gauge vs what I see in the log, I’m fairly confident in it. (I had an intermittent leak on the bypass valve diaphragm that was messing with my readings).

Though it did momentarily peak a little higher for a split second at the WOT shift. I guess that means my exhaust is still flowing well as I’ve opened the intake and increased the blower rpm.


Also, it looks like my catch can is doing its job. The intake snout looked a hair colored but there wasn’t any residue that I could wipe with my hand. I usually have a couple ounces in the catch can when I check it every 2k miles or so.

 

Nice!

I wish the Maggy pulley swap was as simple.

 

Oil on boost vid is back up @Wynnded :
https://youtu.be/R1ItaRRXHHI?si=s1ZejvZbrSJO0Nu8

As you add boost you decrease viscosity by adding fuel to your oil (fuel dilution) ; increasing wear. The video also talks to water condensation in the oil.

 

So 10-30 or better is what theyre saying if your gonna run boosted

 

It is for the 2650

 

I was happy to see my 5w30 had no fuel dilution despite running it quite rich. <.5% fuel dilution and 0.0% water or antifreeze. I did think I’d see more fuel show up in the analysis. The viscosity was in a good range for 5w30 as well.

 

Not sure which oil is best. Oil choice is best calibrated via oil analysis. For now I'm sticking to 5W30 at a 3K mile interval.

Keep in mind the engine in the video is in the 1K HP range. Assuming a stock engine the rate of dilution on our engines would be less than that in the video.

 

I'm ruining Royal Purple 5/30 and Mobil one, I have been for years in a few boosted engines, so far so good.

 

Thank you again for your insights. For me it boils down to theory vs execution. Seems too good to be true but we'll see how this gets implemented.

From what I could find, speed density tuning does have some advantages over MAF tuning. If it is a trouble free speed density conversion, this could be very significant for boosted vehicles. Notably you could mod your vehicle post tuning or as your engine wears the target AFRs are always maintained without retuning. Spring a vacuum leak, no problem. Change/port snouts, TB, intakes? No problem.

After digging into MAF to (T)MAP conversions I see its been done on other makes and models. On some Subarus with this mod they are using the same MAF inputs/outputs to make it happen. The temp sensor is a break-out from the MAF temp pins and is located as close to the TB as possible. Still not clear how the MAP data is being interpolated for a MAF based ECU; I probably need to look at the equations of how each is calculated to support AFR adjustments.

The interesting thing I found is some conversions run a hybrid MAF and TMAP set up. MAF for idle and low RPMs, speed density for everything above that RPM threshold.

I am keeping an eye out on this but I sure as frack not beta testing this on my truck.

 

These phat sum bitches?! Sadly still waiting to get them mounted, but they're are freaking nice and light!

 

I have these, cost a bit more but I think they're worth it. Plus you can make adjustments with them.

 

Welcome to the club, lol. I'm going to a 315 rear tire next year.

 

The club that's for waiting to mount new wheels and tires or??

 

Lol, no bronze wheels on 305's.

 

Oh right, yeah! I like it, hopefully when I see them on the truck it'll amp me to either go white or black over the chrome or turn the chrome area to bronze/copper accents like the 1794 badge. Either way I just want to go fast and enjoy the truck.

I got these wheels and tires on there now and got the original TRD Big Brake kit installed as well as the new suspension and some other stuff that I had sitting around.

Hope everyone is having a great weekend, cheers!

 

And being in Maryland is also part of the club, lol!! Enjoy!

 

We'll get up one of these days! How far are you from Annapolis?

 

Yeah I went to 5w30 on my oil change after putting on the blower but im also not highly modded like moat of you lol just a smaller pulley haha

 

I was pleased to see the same thing on my first two SC'd UOA's. <.5% fuel dilution, 0.0% water or antifreeze, which is no more fuel dilution than any other UOA pre-SC. I suspect the fact that I get the truck up to temp for a sustained period of time at cruise every week helps keep those low. The flashpoint did drop a little lower on the very first UOA; I attribute it to either tuning and several of WOT pulls or the boutique oil I was running at the time. Or both. I've been trying a few different grades: 0w30, 0w40, and 5w30 to see if any makes a difference on the UOA. So far, no. But the engine sure sounds happier than sipping on 0w20.

 

I work in Frederick, I live just south of Gettysburg. Sounds good.

 

Hey, I don’t want to hear another peep about these unless you’re offering to ship them to my house.

 

Aye aye Sir! Hahaha send me 5K and you got a deal!

 

I usually run 0w-40 in summer. I had a jug of mobile1 0w-30 so I mixed up a 50/50 batch to make a heavy 0w-30 or light 40. Figured it would be about 12.6cst@100deg from bobsoil site.

 

https://m.youtube.com/shorts/HwMNaTi0i5A

 

Haha! Thanks! I watched it this morning without even realizing it was the same video!