General Supercharger Thread

I’ve been saying this forever. Apparently Prospeed has a plug in motec option and OTT is working on something similar as well.

 

Oh yeah a stand alone would be amazing, however, they remove OBDII, so street legality goes out the door. Plus the complexity of getting it all to work properly to what we all have been used too with HP tuners, especially the KR feedback, KR learn, 4 knock sensors, etc. The tundra ECU is pretty awesome. Tough to throw millions of $$$ of Toyota R&D away, but man, speed density would be just tits!

 

Looks like it plugs into the factory computer for some level of OEM retention but I’m sure the tuning and dialing would be significant in comparison to what we currently use


https://www.prospeedautosports.com/...-motec-plug-and-play-for-07-20-tundra-sequioa

 

Nice! We worked with a customer on another platform, since Motec was at the time, the only standalone that could control direct injection motors. It was amazing, he had programmed in boost control levels with the cruise control button and the RPM gauge would sweep from 1000 RPMs for setting 1, to 2000 RPMs for setting 2, and up to display what boost map he was on. Think he had about $10K into it and 100s of hours. But it was sick...

 

Can anyone who has disabled the flex lock on their tunes show what values should be input into the tables to do so? I may do that with mine to avoid the excess heat for no good reason and prevent wear on the TC clutch.

 

6375rpms for both apply and release for all cells. D/s6 is 3rd on up and sports is 4th on up.

 

Am I lucky or did Sniv lock my transmission tune in? I am unaware of any shifting issues (hopefully not jinxing myself)

 

Thank you sir!

 

It's all good. I brought up an old post by slownstock about disabling flex lock. His theory was after market torque converters don't play nice with them, they generate excess heat as the apply and release like 100x's a second. It was help drivability but mostly to gain a few tenths of mpg savings to meet epa mpg standards.
I saw the shudder tsb and forgot who but Toyota tech was saying it was flex lock and the torque converter design. I disabled it did a fresh ws atf change and added a extra 1/2 qt atf and my shudder and p2757 went away.
I told John at ipt and he was looking at trying it on other toyota vehicles with shudder issues/2757. He said it would help in prolonging the trans life. It's always reversible.

 

Mishimoto 160º Thermostat - My Very Short Term Experience

With additions like the supercharger, lift, 37s, bumpers, blah blah blah, I want to reduce operating temps.


Although I am re-geared on 5.29s, spinning 100lbs at each corner will always be burdensome.

With my additions, particularly after adding the RCI trans skid and cat protectors, I've observed higher operating temps (especially as it's gotten warmer). You can read my response here:
Transmission temps and cat plate correlation?
Although my temps are not necessarily out of operating range, they are higher than my old "normal" and I recently experienced vapor lock due to high fuel temps (I can share that story later).

After reading everyone's posts, I was about to cancel/return my order! But I thought, what IF it works? So, several F-words and a bloody knuckle later, I've installed the Morimoto Thermostat, and here's why:

My considerations:
- Removing water vapor from oil
- Activating oil additive package
- CEL due to low ECT temp and its relation to timing values
- Naysayers

My rationale:
- I'm supercharged, I generally drive +20 miles / 30 min at a time (most of the time it's hundreds of miles as I go on frequent dirt bike trips) and I have increased operating temps with my current setup.
- I understand that the water molecules are suspended in the oil or accumulate along surfaces, BUT, water does not need to reach boiling temps* in order to vaporize (sublimation is proof of that).
- I have HP Tuners and can dick around with it if needed.
- I came up with a temporary radiator cover (double wall corrugated plastic sheet) to use for the colder seasons/weather. (it slides right in front of the radiator / behind the condenser and hangs off the upper radiator support)
- And no one has really naysayed. but I also don't care.
*At my elevation water boils at ~199º

Support to my rationale:
- When the engine is brought up to operating temps, my understanding is engine oil is 10-20º warmer than ECTs.
- From what I've researched, additive packages activate anywhere between 50-80º C (122-176º F).
- I can always remove the fucker if it causes problems.

My notable findings from the short-term:
I've only put 65 miles on the thermostat and 3 heat cycles. Ambient temps ranging from 72-90º, humidity 25-30%. Elevation between 6,200-7,300'.
- Drove on the interstate, driving 80-85mph up an incline into a headwind, in boost 2-3psi, hauling dirt bikes, with ambient temps at 72º. Regardless of ambient temps, this route normally keeps the ECT between 205-208º and TC around 190º. After the new thermostat, ECT didn't get above 187º and TC was between 165-168º.
- At idle after driving (with everything "warmed up" and regardless of ambient temps), ECT was between 176-178º. Normally I would expect 196-198º
- From cold startup to idle, ECT would hover between 164-167º. Before it would be anywhere between high 170s to low 180s.
- Around town, stop and go driving, ambient at 80º, ECT was between 176-180º. Before the thermostat, it was 195-203º.

I can provide a long-term update later.

Tomorrow I'm installing that sweet SPD exhaust - down pipes and cat-back - that @reywcms helped create. I imagine with 2 less cats and being more free flowing, I would expect to see another reduction in temps.

 

The differences in speeds between w/o and w/ the tow packages may be due to different final drive ratios as standard equipment. 3.90 vs. 4.10.

 

Looking forward to your findings. Well written and thought out.

 

Great data! Thanks for the detailed info!

 

I haven't got the truck up to 166mph yet. Toyota says it can well... Fastest I've seen was 156mph by a guy who disabled his abs fuse and used GPS to log his speed

 

Nice write up and no naysayers here. Like the idea for winter instead of having to swap t-stats put a rad cover on like the semi's do.

 

Yeow! I'm not a big fan of speeds like that in a truck, too much air that can get under it and mess with the handling. But that's just me.

 

Not me! Some yahoo years ago filmed himself in TX or AZ just flat out to the floor for 5 minutes. Crazy in a truck.

 

Excellent data!

I have the Mishimoto Radiator & thermostat waiting to go in, SPD downpipes coming tomorrow, it has been no less than 110 here so I need to get on the cooling system. Shame I spent the winter building the BMW.

Thanks for the info!

 

Winter when it gets down to 60? lol

 

Fittings came, I need to figure out where to put it.

 

How is that? Did John explain to you how the VB keep the trans from going out? And a trans from him is $7k, wow. Makes me miss my built 4L70E with a Circle D converter at half that price.

 

I've spoken to John about it. He made me a believer. Call him next week but only after he's done with @Wynnded new trans lol.

 

Trans is 5k but all the other work will cost 2kish to uninstall/install/etc. Surprisingly most generic rebuild shops and/or junk yard option end up very close to 5k+ so everyone might as well give John a call haha!

 

I was going to say.. I'm pretty sure the local shops are over $4k here just to rebuild the core. I think Jon i about to get a whole lot busier this summer. I was talking with him last fall about it; I just need to find some downtime for the truck else I'd already have it done! (the VB, that is..)

 

When I was talking to him last week I said I was going to use the 3 trans-go kits and do my own. While some of the stuff done is similar he uses some different parts. Toyota used single seals for accumulators in the valve body these wear out and cause the trans to not hold clutch pressure. It also firms up shifts so there is no to little overlap, less heat and clutch wear. And an accumulator for the torque converter lockup up with a double seal and oversized accumulator.
I and silver17 or saltyhero13 posted about the kits. The kits were like $300 but you still have to drill and ream out for the oversized accumulators and check valves. Thought of doing it but if I mess up. It will cost the price of a new valve body.
And beware of counterfeit VB on ebay.

 

Would be nice to have somewhere local to pull and install it's not that involved to diy.

 

I did a remote tune with OTT

 

Will they adjust PE and its enable/disable TPS? Get it within 10.5 to 11. You can mention it was tuned but it's still off from an engine safety standpoint.

 

So tell us about the vapor lock please.

 

I know Tundras are big girls, but have you guys ever thought about switching to Lithium batteries when your old one dies? Antigravity ones are pretty crazy spendy (like 775$ for a group 24 40amp), a Dakota Lithium Group 24 60amp for 600$: https://dakotalithium.com/product/d...r-starter-deep-cycle-lifepo4-battery-1000cca/

An AGM is around 400$ and 55lbs or so, these Lithium ones are 15-20lbs depending on design, decent weight reduction.

Obviously the best weight reduction for your truck is to get on the treadmill/put down the big macs.