General Supercharger Thread

I still need to test that latest revision you sent. I haven't driven my truck since last monday

 

In low boost im still in the 14 range. Usually dont see richer afrs unless I get on it a bit

 

Thanks Toby you're the man! Yeah looks like I gotta quit fixating on getting shit exactly perfect is my problem

 

From what you've posted I wouldn't be remotely worried about it. The Tundra tuning is both not quite as simple and overly simple compared to other setups. I haven't messed with other OEM ECUs, but the Holley ECUs on my other vehicles have a lot of fidelity to do what you're talking about, so if it was that platform then what you're saying would have more merit, with the Tundra though--and my non-professional tuning opinion--you're probably as close as you're gonna get and will just end up chasing perfection in a circle.

 

Power enrichment has a very basic logic, and is essentially an on off switch with a value based on rpm. So it's not doing anything until the activation throttle limit is passed. Which is really annoying, since it's not based on MAF flow or a pressure value, so if you change elevation (and by extension boost) then the engagement of power enrichment doesn't move. If you went to lower elevation you would get into a lot more boost earlier, and PE still wouldn't activate. Likewise if you went up to 12000ft then PE would be active and making the truck rich and you wouldn't be measuring boost. Because of that it's always a matter of compromise, and of course whatever methodology the tuner is following. You could back off PE engagement so the truck can enter boost a little and not get rich, or do you want enrichment right when it enters boost but now fuel mileage may be affected. Personally I like fueling to get full rich right as boost happens, but that is very conservative and just my personal methodology. You could also have PE activate right when you get into boost, but have a very low PE value so you can slowly get richer, for example if you have cruise control and enter boost you could slowly richen out so it's not insanely rich. Flip side is, if you punch the throttle at a light the truck will see full boost but not go full rich instantly. Again, a compromise and dependent on how you use your truck and understanding how the tune is setup. I don't care about fuel economy, so I go full rich all the time in PE and have PE engage very early, but to each their own, no right or wrong way.

 

Yes sir I agree. Tundra is an odd one for it's simple with the tables accessible with HP but hard to dial in. In comparison I use Cobb tuning and their access tuner race program for Mazdaspeed 3. They have twice the tables but once dialed in data is what you tune dead nuts. Tundra is a bit more frustrating lol

 

So cheap!

https://www.mishimoto.com/universal-aluminum-coolant-expansion-tank.html#key-descriptions

 

That's badass! I wish they were a tad bigger though!

 

Yep, for me and how I use the rig enrichment sooner was key. Keep things happy since that's where this lives especially in the dirt. I need to do some logging and throw more timing at it since you said she's happy and craving more lol.

 

Could not agree more.
My boost kicks in around 22% throttle and that's where we have PE set to kick in. It ramps up a bit as we go through the RPM's so compensate for extra air to keep rich/richer.
Boost and PE kick in, for me, at the exact same time. 10.9 is the kick in and it the leanest it shows regardless of RPM while getting into it.
MPG? not sure, but not the concern if you want to protect the motor!

 

Thanks. Didn't fully fix it.

 

But same size as the kits tank.
If those ebay/Amazon ones had bigger inlet/outlets they have other size options like a 2L

 

Never heard of a Latham axial flow blower:
https://youtu.be/QcXJPWqO4Bg?si=G1V79PkK4EgQrwkB

 

that is very cool. wild how the times have changed!
10hp parasitic loss at max rpms is insanely low. I think the mag2650 takes about 100hp to make full power.
great vid, thanks for sharing

 

I went through 3 or 4 in my Tacoma. They were constantly failing. I finally put the mechanical back in and will never go electric again. And I did feel a noticeable difference in power with it in but definitely not worth it.

 

"My supercharger makes jet engine sounds."

 

fwiw, I've had an electric mishimoto fan setup in my 2005 M3 for, idk 6+ years now at least. deleted the crank spun fan. Never had an issue with it not working. Their fan speed controller is just a temp controller, though. Kicks fan on at whatever temp I set it to, and at the speed it's set to. Not variable.

I also hacked up my OEM fan shroud so that it fit back in place over the Mishimoto e-fan.

https://www.mishimoto.com/bmw-e46-m3-performance-aluminum-fan-shroud-kit-01-06.html

 

I could see this being another @snivilous part to make! design an aluminum bracket like Mishimoto has, that fits the tundra. And mount an e-fan to it with a proper controller. easy peasy, righ.(?)

https://www.mishimoto.com/adjustable-fan-controller-kit.html
https://www.mishimoto.com/classic/classic-electric-fan-shrouds.html

 

I'm gonna ask a (probably dumb) question.

can I simply "cool" the motor by getting the 160degree thermostat?


or

 

I had a Flex-a-Lite setup on both of my Tacos, quicker revs, colder AC and lower IC delta on my supercharged 2012. Had a fuse blow once and caught it before it overheated, but no issues aside from that.

Other than some older forum posts, I haven't found anything for the 2.5 Gen Tundras. I've been thinking of getting a sheet of aluminum cut up by send-cut-send and see what I can come up with for a dual fan shroud for my CSF radiator.

 

I've had my e-fan setup on for 8-6 years. I did pull it off about a year and put it back on. It ran fine when we hit high 90's. Not sure or have not tested down south in the 100's. So far the Volvo relay controller has stood up and lasted the longest with a BMW thermostat with A/C too.

 

That'd be easy to do. This is the fan shroud I made for my buggy which runs a pair of Ford Taurus fans.

 

I still use the Taurus and mk8 fan, solid
The earlier e-fans for Tundra used flat shrouds they need to be shaped like oem.
Looks like it would do fine in the south...I need an aluminum shroud. I'll test it out. Haha!

 

Shit yea. It's wild to me how many aftermarket electric fans have issues. While many OEM units are fine. Maybe the fan from a ZR1/ZL1/Raptor R/TRX into a custom sniv shroud is the answer. I'd be game

 

I saw the 160* thermostat and was wondering the same thing. Consider me subscribed to this entire discussion about cooling.

 

I’m down for this discussion. Been looking into this for a while.

 

you gotta be careful asking about running stuff cooler...I tried that with "pinning the transmission" discussion and they* jumped my shit.




*they = self proclaimed Toyota engineers

 

Not dumb. Too cold is bad as well. Optimal operating temps for oil and engine are ~200.

Lower temp thermostat would be great for a tracked vehicle approaching higher temps 240+. EDIT: External oil cooler (extra cooling) seems to be the better solution in this case.

 

I've never run an aftermarket fan, the Taurus was recommended and I tried it on my first racecar in 2017 and have now run them on three different vehicles with no issues. They're like $70 (including a shroud), and have high and low speed. Only reason I wouldn't run one is if the assembly is too tall or the fan is too wide. The buggy is the only thing I've run two on, and it's pretty bottlenecked since it overhangs the radiator core by like 4" per side.

 

I spoke at length with John at IPT. He was glad to hear people in the warner climates keeping the trans cooler. 150-160 is good as in my case but any cooling better. He laughed at the water/condensation comment. Even the warming cooling puck helps. Taking 280deg atf from torque converter and the enging coolant at 180-190 deg still cools. But all excess heat is our enemy.