General Supercharger Thread

The adapter seemed to have plenty of room when installed, but came into contact at some point over the course of that weekend. No offroading, no wild driving, only thing that comes to mind is a couple hard U-turns while accelerating to clear traffic. Stock motor mounts and swaybar bushings at this point.


Dent in the filter

 

Thanks for the heads up!
I did a few turns on my way to the store but not fully locked, went over 2 speed bumps.
I'll give it a good run through before fully committing!
Has any other Baxter Performance users experienced this? Wonder if company heard comaints...thanks again for the info. Will keep an eye on it!

 

I have the Baxter & TRD Sway, no contact ...YET
lol

 

One year ago today, my last tank drop, 260 miles from home, 1xx from my destination in L.A.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/201...ild-now-with-boost.87618/page-34#post-3204350



The reason I was scanning my thread was looking for the oil filter housing, I'm an idiot, it's not a Baxter, it's a Jowett.

 

I wasn't able to find anyone else that had this issue...so maybe just my luck? I emailed Baxter and never received a response, I figured maybe it was due to the TRD swaybar being larger, but not 100% on that.

 

Could be but still...Thanks for posting and showing the pics.

 

I always thought that the O.D. of the bar was the same as stock, it was just the wall thickness that makes it stiffer. I've had mine on for so long that I don't recall it needing new, different sized bushings when I installed it.

 

Well that blows that theory out of the water, I thought it was larger...mine came with both front and rear TRD sway bars. In that case, I have no idea why mine came into contact under "normal" driving conditions. If I was hooning around and jumped a curb, then maybe...but no such fun was had that weekend.

 

I'm going to install my braided brake lines and rotate my tires. I'll raise and lower each end to see the articulation and if sway bar contacts it.

 

3UR oil galleries are .708, so -10 is adequate, but a full flow cooler should really have -12. Toyota runs a bypass on all of the factory oil coolers they install, so they certainly have concern when it comes to proper flow.

 

Thanks for the info! Will call Baxter to see what psi if any for bypass.

 

Think my fuel pressure issue is finally fixed, 50 psi FPR I’m sitting at high 9s low 10s AFR. Haven’t tested fuel pressure yet but same tune I was getting 11-12s before

 

Nice! For good cooling of the cylinders and ring lands shoot for 10.5 afr. It may dip for a second or 2 in the high 9's but provides a safety net for the 3urfe.

 

That reservoir is on sale, 20 bucks delivered.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/384961660674

 

I just got a P0430. Wasn't even on the throttle during the trip.

Hoping the downpipes solve it.

 

When we talk about IAT and blower cooling efficiency, what are we actually talking about about. Is it the ability to maintain low IAT at cruising speed. Is it the ability to maintain it at stop and go traffic. Or to maintain it when doing a run.
I can say that when cruising I can maintain about 5-10* above ambient. Now in stop and go traffic is a different story. If it's 100 the it will climb to 130-140 but as soon as start to move and cruise it drops quick. I also didn't notice during a run that they climb. Maybe 10-15*, maybe.

 

I think the main concern for those of us talking about IAT is during long sustained boost pulls from driving hard or towing. With the magnuson the IAT you are reading though is only reading the air temperature at the MAF sensor so it’s kind of useless for true IAT monitoring purposes. The Harrop I believe is the only one with a true IAT sensor breakout wiring loom, which reads from a sensor factory installed after intercooler reading true air temp entering the engine after going through the SC. Whether cruising or a full boost run it almost always reads 28-34 degrees over ambient. The warm HX fluid usually heats up the air over ambient temps during normal driving since it gets warm circulating around the engine bay, that said it’s otherwise efficient even under high boost loads and it keeps the IAT extremely stable. When towing in summer temps and staying in boost for extended periods, it will hang around 40 over ambient.

 

I forgot that we had no actual IAT sensor after the cooler. So I take it no one other than the Harrop know what their actual IAT is? Or have a temp sensor on the coolant to know more or less IAT temps.

 

Yeah basically, but if you really wanted to monitor it bad enough Harrop sells that sensor and wiring harness separately and you could make it work on the other blowers if you find a good spot to locate it, which is probably the hard part. I’ve seen someone drill and tap a spot on one of the runners down the side of the 1900 already. It’s not that big of a deal for most, and we haven’t been able to see any tables on what’s available with HP to see if the IAT is actually affecting timing in some way. The main reason I like having it is just to give me a heads up if my IATs are getting way high that maybe I have an intercooler pump/intercooler related issue. I have to wonder if any engines were ever lost in the past from a loss of a properly functioning intercooler circuit and the driver didn’t even know.

 

Back in 2011 when a Toyota dealership replaced my first short block with spun bearings under warranty (I couldn’t do Toyota warranty claims at the Lexus dealership), the geniuses forgot to fill the intercooler circuit with coolant. It was pinging very loudly at full throttle (that’s what caused me to start looking for what’s causing it and finding the reservoir empty).
So I would say that a faulty intercooler pump or other issue could certainly cause eventual engine damage.

 

Well just an update after clearing my driver side grenaded catalytic converter and running just the secondaries. First time towing my camper since supercharging also. My temp ghetto patch of the stock downpipes are working great! Trailer towed awesome, literally like it isn't there. Even towing over Loveland pass through Eisenhower tunnel truck pulls with authority! Tune is finally doing what I tell it, A/F settles 10.5-6 and dips to 9.9-10 on hard throttle with timing asking for more advance. It's unbelievable how this truck runs towing and at elevation. Just for reference after clearing both primary cats, running just secondaries, 76mm pulley I'm seeing 5 psi at 10k+. Can't wait to run the SPD downpipes and fine tune.

 

This

I had a bad connection on my ic pump and iat came up to 160 degrees

 

Using this boost temperature calculator, each psi with a 70% efficient compressor adds about 15-16 degrees to the IAT (pre intercooler).

http://stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm

 

<cannon fodder time>

My Harrop IAT has a +31 degree delta from ambient. If I cruise on the hwy @ 62 - it will drop to +28 degrees.

Pinning the thermostat has resulted in a ~+85 degree over ambient. yesterday were 95degree ambient - Africa humid. my trans pan maxed out at 182 in traffic. once I got back to cruising on hwy -> 172 degrees.

The truck is running awesome.

I almost hit the button on that SS exhaust system group buy thing...but man, I don't want any check engine lights or gremlins.

 

Yup, here in S.Fla I run the same with it pinned open.
No idea on IAT since I don't have a sensor for it.
I think I will look into a Aeroforce gauge. Stupid me should have bought it instead of the AEM wideband. AF can do boost, wideband, temp, plugs into your OBD so you can read anything and clear codes with it.

 

I hate to mess with things too when it’s running well. I may even just sit on the SPD midpipes until after RV towing season and mess with it then. If nothing else, I got them at a good price so if my cats decide to blow apart on me I’ll have them ready to go!

 

Hello All,
As I compile a parts list for a SC soon, I'm wondering if anyone has a wheel/tire setup that's been working well for traction and general shenanigans?

 

I have 33" BFG KO2 10ply and I can drag those tires down the street. Gonna need drag radial or slicks for traction. Or learn to feather the throttle.

 

I've learned to feather the throttle currently at stock power levels w/35" Falkens and obviously will even need more restraint with additional power. So, I get your thoughts there.

I guess a more direct question would be is anyone running 305/50-55/20's Nitto 420V or Nitto NT555RII?

Would be a secondary setup..for extra fun.

 

I believe @Winks4x4Toy is running Toyo proxes st iii xl, 305/50r-20 on his rig.