General Supercharger Thread

The last 30 seconds of this video is actually a better description. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1XMxwkU7KiM&pp=ygUUZnVlbCBiYXNrcnQgamV0IHB1bXA=

 

We have to remember that all of those HP calculators are based on redline peak HP. Most don't account for drivability and lower rpm scavenging from smaller exhausts.

 

I replaced my stock basket venturi with this, I cut off the bottom inlet nipple and enlarged the hole to fit a fuel tube through for the siphon. With my engine idling it overflows the basket. I had the basket spaced off the tank with 2x4's with everything connected and engine running, trying to see if I had a leak in the basket connections...one of the many hoops I jumped through trying to run down my pressure drop at high RPM.

https://www.radiumauto.com/Venturi-Jet-Pump-Kit-P760.aspx

 

My understanding is the exhaust system is tuned to support specific bands of power; by exhaust system I include both header and cat back.

Look at shorty tri "y" vs long 4 in 1s, power shift from one end to another. No simple exhaust will do it all across all bands. I've only seen a variable exhaust design on motorcycles, changes restriction to optimize power across more RPM band.

This is where I think not all exhausts are created equally. Crappy exhaust design can clearly hurt power; wrong diameter, poorly formed bends, restrictive muffler, lack of crossover/balance pipe or poor transition into one etc.

Is it gobs of power on the table? Not likely at the larger pullies most of us are running on unbuilt engines. Probably proportional to total engine output so it may matter more as power output climbs. General trend is the gains are always on the big end unless you run shorties.

As long as the total power isn't hampered, lower PSI is a good thing as discussed before. Chamber temps are purportedly lowered by good exhaust flow too but not sure it is possible to measure on a stock set up.

I would be curious to see dyno#s for different set ups. Most of the stuff posted here or the market place is for NA and the gains are almost always up top.

I'm tempted to get redynoed once I get my exhaust sorted and possible retune.

 

Exactly why I don't think dyno numbers tell the full story.

Same holds true for going too big with throttle body. I couldn't find a hard and fast rule for sizing but too big can cause drivability issues.

Using the rule of thumb for min intake exhaust CFMs is probably a good starting point to root out restrictions unfortunately most vendors don't have CFM ratings for intake/exhaust parts like you see on some of the higher end custom parts shops.

 

Nice setup and good use of injector clamps instead of hose clamps!

 

Thanks! Those were a pain, but also done to make sure nothing came loose. In the end, bypassing the fuel pump control module and upgrading wiring was the key to keeping my pressure stable. Now pressure is where it is supposed to be and climbs with the boost.

 

Finally installed my fleabay engine oil cooler. Will see how it holds up. Able to get 9.5 quarts in.

 

You harrop boys here you go


https://www.tundras.com/threads/103-mm-throttle-body-intake-snout-for-harrop-superchargers.142885/

 

Just don’t floor it on an incline below like 1/3 tank, it’ll run dry! I do like the simplicity of the 274 with holes as the pump is only pumping and not doing a secondary venturi to fill the basket, this likely maximizes the stock wiring and hoses. Don’t use regular hose clamps as they can’t get tight enough and the 274/system will slow leak when off and make for hard starting (second photo hose clamps : bad).

 

He also is FFV which is supposed to have a larger venturi system to handle the ffv high pressure. I installed a ffv tank used a walbro 450 model 267 with no hole drilling and venturi system.

 

Gotcha, fuel pump and hardwire in. Gonna install the fuel rails soon and fingers crossed no more fuel pressure loss

 

Since you couldn't get the vsv relay to kick in high psi. You can try hot wiring the pump. You'll give it the full 14.2 or so volts.

 

I bought the DW hardwire kit, wiring it straight to my battery!

 

Decided to do my trans fluid a little early as I was being a bit rough on it lately. Not too bad.
Was going to try havoline world atf but came across an ad for ws fluid at 1/2 off. Guy sold his tundra and had a case of ws fluid. So I grabbed that. Removed my trans thermo and coolant puck. Straight lined it. It was a slow day...

 

Any luck with your afr's and fuel pressure?

 

What fittings are those in place of the puck? Where are the lines to the trans fluid cooler?

 

They are elbows that John at ipt mentioned in a video. They don't come with o-rings but found some to fit. Just going straight to cooler and back. The coolant lines I removed and joined it with an 3/4 hose elbow.

 

@armyoffoo. I used your idea with the Greddy thermostat on the Baxter performance adapter. I used a smaller filter to reduce the weight but it seems pretty stout. I don't have the mechanical fan to worry about the oil line placement. It opens fully at 176 deg. Seems ok for now. Thanks for the idea. I'll throw on the wix 51516 later.

 

Tbd, still getting everything installed and will test. If it’s still losing pressure, I have no idea what else to do

 

Thanks!

 

Well. You tested everything in order and as a last resort was dropping the tank and changing pump with it hard wired.
This will do it! Sending positive vibes...

 

In some markets, the LC w/ AB60F does not use the t-stat or warmer ( they do have the lower radiator tank cooler, though). The elbows are factory correct, o rings are part # 90301-11030.

 

Thanks. I forgot about ordering the o-rings. At first I thought it was a crush washer but nope...need those o-rings.
Thanks for your help with the engine oil cooler ideas. I just went with the least expensive and easiest route. But if I do come across a RC F cooler...haha

 

No problem. One of these days I’ll finish the oil cooler and write it up. What size lines did you run?

 

10AN hose, .56 ID, and the cooler is open at 176 deg. I found that the stant coolant thermo pills will fit in if I need to increase the temp.

 

You might want to do some full lock turns in both forward and reverse to see if your sway bar contacts the assembly...my TRD sway bar made contact with the filter and leaked oil everywhere when I used that Baxter adapter...which is why I wanted to try that alternate oil cooler assembly that positioned the filter horizontally. I ended up getting the Baxter remote oil adapter and a remote filter mount, but I haven't installed it yet.

 

The adapter seemed to have plenty of room when installed, but came into contact at some point over the course of that weekend. No offroading, no wild driving, only thing that comes to mind is a couple hard U-turns while accelerating to clear traffic. Stock motor mounts and swaybar bushings at this point.


Dent in the filter

 

Thanks for the heads up!
I did a few turns on my way to the store but not fully locked, went over 2 speed bumps.
I'll give it a good run through before fully committing!
Has any other Baxter Performance users experienced this? Wonder if company heard comaints...thanks again for the info. Will keep an eye on it!

 

I have the Baxter & TRD Sway, no contact ...YET
lol