General Supercharger Thread

I eat about everything up here and im sure theyre like WTF

 

I am on the TRD tune with no other modifications.
When I am towing at between 60- 65MPH, I can stay in 6th gear 99% of the time with the torque converter locked up. It feels like the engine is lugging and when the timing gets to around 6, the converter unlocks. I get better mileage when I keep it in 5th gear with torque converter locked up and timing stays above 12. I also get 10% or so better mileage (less fuel used).

 

So, my plan later this year is to add Magnuson 2650 to my 2021 and get a custom tune directly after. After some reading here and a coupe other threads, I understand I have a couple options for tuning.

1. I can keep the tuning interface hardware that Magnuson provides and do a remote tune through OTT or similar
2. I can buy another "open" tuning interface kit and remote tune with @snivilous or similar

My plan is to just run the standard fueling that is provided with Magnuson and stay fairly conservative as this truck needs to last me many 100K's as a primary driver. My understanding is that the kit comes with a Fuel Pump (not sure capacity) and 535 Injectors.

So my question is...With the injectors and fuel pump provided with the the current 2650 Magnuson kit, am I able run smaller pulley and tune for a little more power on the 2650 or just focus on getting a better balanced tune in the same power regime? I have no interest in going down the hole on this truck. I've been down this road too many times on multiple other vehicles and I'm over it.

I'd prefer to bring my truck to a Dyno and tuner in the area I live in, but not finding anyone around here that has specific/extensive experience tuning Supercharged Tundras. If I'm going to spend $1K on a Dyno Tune, I want that person to have a lot of Tundra experience and I'm not finding that around me.

 

Still got a couple months putting the truck back together. I rebuild them over 2 years. Still need to install a couple air bags and fab up a an ARB clone bumper.

 

Welcome to the thread & good luck!

I took my Tree to an established tuner & had it done on the dyno (was 500 bucks) the truck ran ok but there were issues, Sniv tuned it & it feels like it has 12 cylinders & 2 blowers in comparison.

Just saying.

 

I never use 6th when towing either. 5.7 loves to rev and mpg only improves.

 

I don't think you could run a smaller pulley. The 2650 in my experience already taps out the 535s pretty good, and the guys at higher elevation can get away with a smaller pulley but even then it's right on the edge. Being at sea level, I don't think there's enough left with the 535s to handle the 76mm pulley.

I talked to a guy a couple days ago who was going to have his truck get dyno tuned and then he was going to send me the tune afterwards and just look it over and see if there's anything I would do differently. The other tunes I've seen from dyno tuned trucks from people that weren't familiar with the Tundra left a lot of tables and values untouched, they might have gotten the most power but even something as basic as the speed governor being removed had been overlooked.

 

What is this speed governor you speak of lol

 

Im on a stock 2650 kit and run a smaller pulley. Did an OTT tune as it incredibly cheaper. But im also in high elevation so maxing out isnt as easy as if im lower. If youre near sea level youll def want to swap out injectors.
I did ask to comfirm with OTT that if I get down real close to sea level that as long as im not on it for long periods or often I should be good. Also if I do feel uncomfortable I can swap back to stock pulley if needed at that time.
OTT tune makes my truck scream at my elevation and even hitting 8-9psi

 

Thanks guys. Stock pulley it is...I'm at 1000ft and sea level all around me so I'll just leave that alone until I get bored with the initial power increase. I already have an OTT N/A tune, so it would be easy to just stick with them and pay the delta to a custom remote tune for the Supercharger. But...I will most likely just spend the extra money and work with @snivilous on a remote custom tune.

I also recently saw some mention about boost referencing so I need to educate myself on what needs to be done to set that up. I'll probably have Westcott Engineering do the install since I'll be in that area in November and they seem to have a ton of experience in installing Magnusson's on Tundra's.

Now, to wait....

 

I have read posts about adding a boost gauge and to be careful not to strip out the brass plug. Well, my brass plug was easy to come out, but. I have a pre-installed hose barb on the driver's side around the same place as the brass plug which is on the pass side. Are both on them good for boost readings?

 

If you have me tune your truck, I appreciate the support! If not, makes no difference to me---and you should go with whichever tuner better suits your needs anyway. I think it's good for anyone looking to tune their truck to talk to a variety of people/companies, because either way you're spending a lot of money and the tune will make or break the truck and is something where you're interacting with and relying on someone else. There was someone last week where I talked to them for half an hour answering questions about how to setup the truck and one of the things was recommending OTT or YotaWerx to tune their truck because I thought that was a better option for what they wanted to do than me doing it.

In regards to boost referencing, it's super easy, there's a boost port on the supercharger which is an outlet nipple. You want to run a hose from that to your fuel pressure regulator (squished top hat looking thing on the front passenger fuel rail). The fuel pressure regulator normally runs that line to the intake tube, so you disconnect from the intake and hook into the boost port (and plug the intake tube). If you run a boost gauge then you'll also tee that line into.

Since you're getting a 2650 lots of people have reported that the boost port has a brass plug from the factory, and that plug is usually seized into the blower. So you should remove the plug when you get it since some people have had to drill it out, and then cap it off temporarily or give the shop some hose to run it to the fuel pressure regulator right out the gate.

 

Not to be a Debbie Downer...was going through an old tool box and found a "reminder" why we need to keep things in check.

 

Geez Louise, it looks like that piston drug down the road while still dangling from the connecting rod.

 

I have mine to the intake tube. What's the point of having it to the boost port of the SC? If I recall correctly, is it to max out fuel pressure at the rail? Or am I wrong.

 

It give more pressure to the regulator thus being able to push a bit more fuel fatser

 

That's what I was kinda thinking. So why doesn't Magnuson have you do that from the get go?

 

I would agree with this since the pressure to the intake is delayed. I'd rather be proactive in fuel pressure on a boosted system.

 

Nope just wedged in between crank webs...

 

Whipple is the only company that suggests it. Could be a safety clause on their side.
But you get a solid reference point at the blower. As stated the intake can fluctuate.

 

The intake reference is only vacuum based too. At WOT vacuum drops, so the pressure ramps up. But being boost referenced it now sees positive pressure further pushing it down, not just stopping at the zero vacuum point.

 

Harrop calls for boost referencing the regulator as well, and actually provides a higher pressure regulator as part of the “stage 1” setup as an extra fueling bandaid.

 

So is sourcing airbags difficult at the moment?

 

Well shit looks like bank 1 cat is fucked. Misfires, lean up high, stumbling.... Looks like running rich kills these cats pretty quickly

 

On some. Seems luck of the draw on getting ones to survive. Went with metal catalysts back in 2014. But I do have to run simulators.

 

Looks like it happened just in time. There’s a group buy going on SPD midpipes with cats as well as their catback thanks to @reywcms I’m probably ordering some this week myself!

 

Thanks for the info! Running DD from cats back just need the cats for now.....of course this happened right before I'm getting ready to camping lol

 

That's what I figured, gut the rear test pipes change the cats and run some spacers

 

Where's it hiding?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/new-exhaust-system.137060/page-6#post-3581766