General Supercharger Thread

Is there a preferred side to install a wideband?

 

They both go full lean in open air, I did the open air calibration on them this weekend and passed, there is also a thermistor test when they are still in the exhaust and passed that as well.

 

Not really. Driver's side potentially has fueling issues on cylinder 5, but the passenger side with a stock fuel rail gets fed after the driver's side so would be the first to starve from pressure theoretically. Pick your poison, flip a coin. Personally I thought the passenger side was physically easier to do so I install them there. Or get sexy like Armyoffoo and have one on each bank.

 

What are your stock sensors doing, or did I miss that?

 

Stock AFR reading more or less matches the passenger wideband reading.

 

Exactly thus why I went with the maggy 2650 over the 1900. Youre comparing a bigger blower to a smaller one

 

I'm hoping to get 650hp plus at the wheels with the 1900. Going with something bigger next year.

 

Bigger, yes, but also a different method of compressing the air and producing boost. Roots type blowers scoop air around the outside of the case and compress it at the outlet; twin screw compresses the air along the length of of the screws, then dumps that already compressed air at the outlet. So it’s not just the blower size that is different.

 

Just as you can oversize a turbo you can oversize a supercharger. If I could have my pick it would actually be a 2300, ideally with the 2650 rotor design if that were available but it’s not. In other platforms the 2300 is very popular for 800whp builds, and people are only going up to a 2650 for 800-1200whp builds. We even discussed this earlier in the thread with Chris from Harrop, and asked why they didn’t offer the 2300 for the tundra despite it being a better size for the application for most of us. His answer: everyone always wants the bigger blower…. Even if it doesn’t make sense from a performance/efficiency standpoint. The average dude buying a supercharger kit doesn’t grasp any of those complexities and will just buy the bigger blower.

 

So, both narrow band (NB) sensors and one wide band (WB) are all giving a similar reading. Swap the WBs driver to passenger (seems easier than shuffling injectors, but who knows) and see if the erroneous readings follow the sensor or stay on the one bank of cylinders.

 

Correct, both stock sensors line up with the passenger WB...I'm going to swap the sensors in a bit, I just made a trip around the block to monitor the behavior after moving to the midpipes...no change. If I have to swap injectors around I will, but starting with the sensors first after it cools off...and sort out my logging issues.

 

Biggest surprise on the turbo so far. Sipping is right, even with my TT instead of Jesse's cars.

For reference, the AEM controller is set to come on at 2psi and be full flow just a touch above 5psi. This is with the medium sized nozzle.

Real test will be in the mountains over Father's Day weekend, so more to come. Until that trip, we're still in the crawl phase, and I have 4 gallons set aside just for that trip.

 

I’m curious how high the IATs are above ambient at the 1-2 PSI range on a hot summer day with the open element before the meth kicks in. Maybe you could check that if you have a scangauge or similar. Say at 150 under hood degree air entering the element, running 2 psi at 70% compressor efficiency you’re looking at 182 degrees by the IAT calculator. You’re basically looking at 15-16 degrees of increased IAT over the air temp from which the filter is sucking air for every PSI of boost at 70% efficiency (with no meth factored in.)

 

I saw when they hit your YT channel, if you didn't post them here I would have.

 

I can certainly find that, before and after intercooler. It sort of is what it is until the cooler goes in, though.

From what I've read, CAI kits don't typically yield enough performance to warrant the costs, and if the logs look good, then I'm good. The off the shelf stage 1 is all Jesse since I'll be at 1.5 (or higher).

 

Welp I can finally say I’ve become victim of a bricked ecu on my 2020 tundra using HPtuners for the first time. Didn’t want to have to make this post but not sure what to do at this point so I’m looking for help. I started working with @snivilous on the tune and went to flash it, got to about 35% complete and got a timed out error. Tried doing it again and no communication with the ecu. I used D3Performance before switching and had no issues flashing many times using their software. I even tried to use their recovery system but with no luck. @snivilous has also created a thread called “how to recover/replace ecu” as a few of us have had this happen. What are my options??

 

Sorry that happened, I hope it is recoverable. I got exactly what I needed from this eBay seller, closest I saw was 2017 but maybe they have a '20

https://www.ebay.com/str/ultimateautosolutions

 

Even the 2650 is built different than the 1900 for many different reason than just high HP. It runs cooler keeps aor temps cooler for better efficiency and longevity. I did my research between the 2. Even the bigger harrop, whipple work much like it that isnt comparable to the smaller ones like the 1900. I looked for certain things when I was choosing besides HP. But you cant compare the smaller to the larger just like titties and tire lol. Each has their own properties within groups and per person. Of course the harrop guy would boast about their product lol why would you advicate for another product over what you sell? Hahaha

 

Ooofta, I am about to do mine tonight for the first time and this is making me pause haha. Were you using the beta version or the stable one?

 

Well I had both versions installed on my laptop because I was having issues trying to read my stock file but I think when I opened up the file I was going to flash with, it may have opened with the beta version now that I’m thinking of it. Not sure if that was the cause or not

 

You had swapped over from a flex to a non flex ecu. How was that process? Did you end up buying the same MY ecu as yours or was there a range you could go by. I’d assume I can’t go any lower than a 2020 because of the changes they made.

 

Have you tried non beta version. Is your ignition fuse blown? Did you pull intercooler fuse? Use battery charger? Check all ignition and ecu related fuses.

 

I only checked the 20A ecu fuse not the ignition fuse. I also tried to see if the non beta version would make a difference and it did not. I will be deleting that one just in case that was the issue and only using the stable release.

 

Hpt will ask you to try to write with beta version. Check fuses. Strong internet link. They even recommended using a better USB cable.
We're you able to reload the original tune. Back to stock?

 

When I emailed them about mine bricking they basically said "guess you need a new ecu then"

 

They take the whole "brickable" seriously, profit over liability. Sometimes you get a tech who will try to help.

 

I tried in the beginning when all this happened but gave up as it was getting late. I’m going to try the resistor mod when I get home from work this afternoon and hope that works. If not I’ll find the part number and buy a used one.

 

This was one thing that jump out to me when I was flashing my tune this weekend. @snivilous told me to turn everything off. When I turn the key I heard the cooler pump comes on. Turned the key off, removed the pump fuse and put the 7.5 fuse back. Close the doors, all lights off, radio, charger on battery and prayed to the ECM gods like he said. I also used the stable version. No way would I use a beta. I ain't no guinea pig.

 

What's the resistor mod? I have heard of something about shorting out the ECM or another with a resistor to make it reset. Never really looked into it since I haven't installed a tune in forever. But now that I am it's good to have some info on hand.