General Supercharger Thread

Ditto!

 

@e30cabrio when you first ran the walbro 450 did you have the vsv relay grounded to give the high psi voltage to it? Just trying to help the guy in running lean thread.

 

Yup, all the mods were done because it "needed" more powa.

The pumps were the problem.

 

Thanks. If testing doesn't pan out. I recommended the deatsworks dw300.

 

Just logged using the HP Tuners VCM for the first time (thanks to Sniv). Was interesting to see for my near sea level 725 injectors with a Walbro 450 just barely get to 99% usage right at 6000/6200rpm, and the Maf gets almost to 100% right at that point as well. (Magnuson 1900, 2.3", Longtubes/3" exhaust, RCF TB, OV Magnuson 2021 tune). Likely will get alot better after a real tune!

 

There's nothing like getting it dialed in! @snivilous will get it going. It was like driving a different truck. A bonus is he will help you understand the tuning too.

 

Off topic but if you can move fast you better be able to stop.

Brakes were new when I bought the Tree, (unbeknownst to me) I bought new brakes before I got it. I have had worsening shudder on the freeway so figured the rotors were warped & just installed them.

New pad on the right, I put 25k miles on them, kinda shocking how much is left.

 

So the SC is in. Have a few questions?

First is the fuel pump. Is it supposed to look identical? The OEM was a Denso, the Magnuson pump was also Denso. No way to tell them apart other than some different numbers on the pump. I am sure I am over thinking it and should know better that Magnuson will put the correct pump.

Second is, can I turn the truck on, on the stock tune just to check for leaks and refill the radiator? I sent an email to Snivilous but he's off racing so I don't expect for him to answer.

 

Yes to running and starting it. Technically you could drive it as well if you wanted to, just don't be romping on it. Grampa driving permitted.

 

It's on topic. You can go but ya gotta stop!
I had wrapped rotor brake fade with OEM, powerstop, and oem again.
Installed Raybestos r300 rotors all around with element3 pads. They work great even with some hard 110-0 stops. Also after hard braking don't leave the pads touching the rotors can lead to warpage. Now I need to install the stainless lines to complement them. Been 2 years still going!

 

You need some of these

 

That's where it's at! Some stopping power...

 

Still waiting for mine

 

This can also lead to brake pad material transfer which can feel like a warped disc. I've been able to scrub the disc lightly and cure this, in the context of a motorcycle.

 

Possibly, in however many miles it takes to make these need replacing.

I had no memory of what I got, the post below was from 6/21! I forgot I got SS lines, need to look for those suckers.

Mystery solved!

 

I bought but never installed some stop tech stainless lines. Should get those installed and do a fluid change. As soon as my thumb heals...

 

Those pesky stringed instruments. Finger guillotines, I call them. Prolly safer to play paddy cake with a pair scissors..

 

Why would you want to risk driving it without the tune? Though you can but I wouldnt pull into traffic or anywhere where you need to get up to speed fast. Like what wynnded said, gramps x10 type driving if you MUST drive! Usually why the instructions tell you to get the tune subbmitted the first steps that way if you end up into the weekend and finish you have to flash and be done! I eneded up getting sent the wring kit with wring dongle and had to wait all weekend then to wait for tune to be sent back. I wouldnt even start the truck and risk even that.

 

The BMW is running great, SC is giving good boost, second to last tune I dragged from the tuner had it running fine but he said it was rich so sent a new file. It runs & drives fine, but at stops/lights etc, 50% of the time it stalls.

I messaged, emailed & called all day yesterday looking for input on logs I sent TUESDAY and got nonsense pull shit apart responses at 5pm my time, 8pm his (he is in Fla)

I paid this freaking company just shy of 7k and have to literally beg for help. Pisses me off.

He ignored that (A) the car runs fine on tune 1 and will not idle with the slightest vacuum leak, these motors are crazy sensitive to vacuum leaks, and (B) the things he is asking me to check require massive tear downs & seeing as literally EVERY hose, fitting, fastner & sensor is NEW NO, Not tearing into it at least until he addresses the simple question, what did you change between tune 1 & 2???

/rant

 

I totally forgot I have a full set of ST SS lines

 

I didn't do the tune first because I am doing a custom tune. The tuner, @snivilous, is out racing this weekend and I had no issue waiting till tomorrow. I just wanted to check for leaks and make sure everything else was fine. I wasn't going to go a round town racing, lol. I haven't had a vehicle tuned in over 15 years so, I dont know how things have changed, ECM wise, compared to back then. Back then I wouldn't have even asked.

 

That was from the group buy awhile back? I would love to get those but the SC was tempting me first.

 

About time you get some spice back in your life.

 

Yeah, just a little though. I will not be chasing big number anymore. I did that back when I had a 06 Silverado SS w/MP112. I was always looking for more. At the end of the day it was a heavy fat pig, but fast. On the stock setup, before I started to build on to it, It did 475 but can't remember if that was TQ numbers or HP numbers. But that was pretty good for a MP112 on a 6.0 LQ9. When the Radix came out, I thought about swapping. But that was just more $$$$.

 

I just did the stock tune from mag just to get running. I installed back in feb and just had a tune done a few weeks ago.

 

Yeah, I thought about that and I did the first step through Magnuson, but then I thought about having a Mag tune then having to revert back to the OEM tune to then install the custom tune. I said the hell with it. Bought a laptop, bought HP Tuners (got $60 off) and hook up with @snivilous to do the tune.

 

Yeah, I’ve realized there is no point in trying to make it crazy fast as it will never be. I mainly just want to hang with the more modern performance trucks being offered from factory at this point. The best perk for me is the towing improvement. The stock pulley should have you around that 450whp range +/- 25 once tuned. Smaller pulleys with the necessary fuel mods and minor intake/exhaust mods should get you in the 530whp +/- 25 range I would say based on what we have seen around here depending on the truck and dyno.

 

You wont have to revert back. I jad the mag tune and overland tailor did my tune and I flash right on top of it.

 

Not sure what im at but no mods done other than boost ref my fuel rail and snivs 76mm and OTT tune