General Supercharger Thread

Going on 10 years with my AEM failsafe dual afr/boost. Only had to replace sensor once. They don't make them anymore.

 

That's kinda what the quick research I did on the subject said. Like headers wouldn't even fit on the engine between the frame rails.

Ooo

 

I prefer AEM, I don't mind the glovebox disco...same widebands that I had in my 2012 Tacoma, same sensors as well. I think I bought them in 2014-15-ish? I just added the Fuel, Oil and Boost so that I could get additional logging.

 

No issues here with my AEM units as well

 

I had to look up who that is. I had a clock like this as a kid

 

Yup, not glamorous, but blends in nicely on the steering column.

 

I like it. I’d consider that if mine takes a dump.

 

My gauge works fine, it seems to be the sensor that's the issue. Is AEM using one that's different than the one that's paired with the Innovate?

 

My Innovate is working great and has never shown an issue...my fingers are crossed to not jinks myself though...it's been about a year and I think and 7k miles from 0 elevation to 8,000...all good here so far...on 2uzs, I've read, it's imperative to let it sit for 30 second upon startup before rolling or at leat once the SAIP turns off before you drive... I'm following thus logic on the Tundra...

 

Got my SC in today and started installing the heat exchanger and pump for now. I got to looking at the Magnuson tune install instructions and it says to make sure you truck has the latest stock ECM software/tune before you install the Magnuson Tune. Is there a way to check with a regular scan tool and a way to know what is the latest software update?

 

Most handheld scanners will report the Calibration ID. You can determine if your ID is the latest by reviewing the TSB documents for the various updates that have occurred.

Post your Cal ID and I’ll let you know what the most current ID is for your ECU.

 

Running Innovative also. Only issue thus far is AFR showing dash lines once in a while. I just press both buttons for the menu and let it sit. It always reverts back displaying AF after

 

Does it read "O2 HEATER" in the upper right hand corner when this happens?

 

Yes sir it does. I used to restart the truck but going into the menu and back usually clears up the issue. I take it as a nuisance.

 

Computer came Friday. Forgot about the compressor.

 

Hmm, I've just assumed that this meant that there was an issue with the heater circuit in the sensor itself, I'll have to give your idea a try and see how mine responds.

 

Ew ya, that's kind of in the way huh...

 

I was getting tired datlogging and having to restart the truck at lights, etc. Tried that and it always clears out. Annoying but it works for me.

 

I've just been leaving it alone to come back on it's own, I'll have to get out for a Sunday drive today.

 

Please update for I was wondering if my weird method was a fluke lol

 

Only totally.

lol

 

Guys with FFV keep an eye on you Eth content! I had reset density a few months ago and noticed it was back up in the 20's. Power enrich A/F was wandering while messing with timing so thought MAF table needed re-adjustment, although odd I thought. Saw 20%, reset and now back at in the 10's

 

This is why I'm swapping a non flex ECU.

 

Good call FFV is annoying and makes tuning a bitch......nows it in my process to always watch eth den......wish there was a way to clear out the ECU calculating from the fuel pump sensor but I haven't seen a way when searching

 

I'm sick of having to drive around with my computer to reset the damn thing.

I have the obstacles out of the way & the small bottom harness off HOW THE HELL do I get the big, upper one off???

 

Non flex is in, damn that fucker was married to the truck. Had to pry it from under the dash to push it out.

The tab on top that needed to pull up the rails on both sides broke, I had to individually pry them.

Toyota could take a lesson from BMW on ECU placement, the one in my Z3 has a sealed with a gasket compartment that is easily accessible & one big old telecom like connector that is secure but comes off easily when unlatched.

 

Both the levers on mine broke too after about the 5th time I had my ecu out. Luckily you can push those side pieces down by hand and they'll still lock up solid. I wasn't able to find a replacement for just the grey lever and pivot

 

Ya, they're a "good time". You might try opening the actual ECU some time, boy howdy!

 

Got it in, wrote my tune (thanks for the deal on credits JustDSM) no luck on the key "just working" of course) jumped pin 4 & 13 which I found online as how people have reset the immobilizer, but they have Xmas tree lights & I just have 4HI so tried in TS but it says my keys are registered. (oddly after I do that process, it starts for a second once)

Leaving the pins jumped for 30 minutes & hoping that does it

 

Do you have to erase other keys for there to be room to add more? The immobilizer on my wife's LS430 was like that. Had to delete a key to be able to add another.