General Supercharger Thread

If you watch my video, there is a minimal pressure difference between the rails when using a single fuel pump, so the difference in AFR is insignificant in my opinion, unlike what some people that want to sell you aftermarket fuel rails will claim.

 

Looks like your competition is here lol.

https://youtube.com/shorts/9_imxJ9ELW0?si=i-VXZp8e4_3knqBj

 

HAHA

 

Lol.....

https://youtube.com/shorts/KPnwTdCERJY?si=Om_6m3zlBGYJtks7

 

I need better footage for sure

 

I'm getting to the age that I dont want much engine or exhaust noise.

I still have most of my hearing and enjoy conversation with the wife.

Which of the common 3 ' chargers had the least amount whine while steady state towing?

 

I don't even hear mine at cruise. The new exhaust is quiet and comfortable enough to have a conversation in the truck; it's still louder than the whine.

 

I don’t think any of them will be loud enough to annoy you. Mine will only start to whine once the bypass starts closing and boost starts to build with some higher throttle input percentages (35ish+ degrees of throttle angle). The 1900 probably whines a bit louder partially due to just spinning faster at every rpm for the same boost. Both 2650s will be quieter most likely, based on what I’ve seen. The Whipple design lends itself to a slightly louder whine also I believe. None of them are gonna sound like a hellcat or anything based on what I’ve heard and experienced.

 

Alright I said fuck it and scrapped the raped up PE table. Set it flatlined to 1.4/10.5 A/F and scaled MAF fuel rich from approx 3.59V-5 for WOT pulls. Then logged and fine tuned the curve everywhere for boost reference with A/F EQ error for once I get into boost at 25/20 able/disable. With the raped PE table it was way to inconsistent. Would come on rich as shit, level out to 10.5 and get rich up top. Also seemed like weather had effect, actual A/F would scale from morning logs to afternoon log, we have a storm coming in. Anyway now shit hits dead nuts command EQ, 10-10.5. MAF curve looks weird but I'm blaming boost reference pressure. It's probably all wrong for I'm a novice but it cleared up my issues. Fucker finally pulls hard and consistent now

 

I've seen way worse MAF v. Airflow tables. Maybe you're on to a different approach for getting these things tuned.

 

That's a relief lol. Yeah man for the life of me I could not adjust PE values vs actual vs commanded and stay consistent. I would adjust my PE values and be good one log and then bam A/F would either scale up lean or down rich as shit. Also when getting on the pedal I would get extremely rich and then taper up to 10.5..... a few time going so rich I would throw misfires. Pull over reset DTC and try again. Very frustrating. This time setting flat PE, scaling the MAF by multiplying EQ error where needed now once I get into it, boom 10/10.5 all the way to redline. I just need to see if the weather/altitude affects it but the MAF table and trims should now in theory adjust. I've got a long ass trip tomorrow dropping altitude so I will be road tuning and logging to see how it holds

 

Sniv had to set my enable/disable , 25/20. I just increased my top end to about 1.18. It does dip into the low 10 to 9.9. But it's safe!

 

After you said that yesterday I copied you and dropped mine! Lol. So thank you. I was getting into 3/4lbs of boost by 35/30 before PE kicked in

 

I should probably adjust mine after dropping pulleys but don’t really know what I’m doing lol. I see 3-4 psi going up hills sometimes and my PE doesn’t kick in until 40 degree TPS. Sometimes if I see the boost climbing but I’m still under 40, I’ll give it more throttle to kick into PE and then back off a bit and it will stay in PE for the rest of the hill climb. The PE AFR does look good though to me, mild boost has it sitting in the 11s and 12s which I think is good and not overly rich for part throttle and medium load. WOT is 10s of course.

 

You guys got me thinking and questioning, maybe someone can better explain the whole PE thing to me. I don't totally get it after looking at my file, since this claims my PE doesnt kick in until 50 degrees, which I definitely see it start to kick in at 40 with my SG3. Does this really just mean that it doesn't go full rich until 50, but at lower TPS (about 40 in my case) it will taper in less aggressively based on this curve/EQ ratio? What would need to be changed to get it dipping into 11s and 12s at 30 degree TPS instead of 40?

 

Yes sir your set at PE kicking in at 50%throttle and disabling at 45%. This is where I sometimes did see knock feedback increase, load going up before dumping in some fuel. Decreasing this helped my situation lower knock.

 

At 3-4psi in the low 11's is acceptable for some. I lived with it for a few years before getting HPT. Anything higher you'll want PE to bring you into the mid 10's.

 

If COTS is enabled it will richen out before PE too, may be what you're seeing.

 

I just got a chuckle out of this,, be careful out there!!!!

 

Quick question for the crowd: any tips for adjusting the bypass valve actuator? The mounting holes are slotted and be adjusted to close a little sooner/tighter. With the actuator adjusted all the way forward, if I pull a vacuum on it the valve is fully closed at at about 2inHG and fully open at 12inHG. If I adjust the actuator just enough to apply a smidge of pressure on the valve at atmosphere, the valve is fully open at 8inHG and closes closer to zero vacuum. Make sense? Any tips? Looking at the valve that came out, witness marks from the bolts appear to have it fully forward.

 

Now getting into gaining/pulling a few decimals here and there in MAF volts to hit commanded .71 lam/10.44 AF. Trims have settled so readjust. KCL is still learning, hitting 19 degrees of spark though with feedback@0. Almost there hopefully it stays consistent injDC is getting close lol

 

ditto.

after putting some miles on the 77.5mm, I stay out of PE way too long (as I've mentioned about ~750 pages ago). I've hit 5 psi without going to PE...14-ish AFR.

so I punch it a tad & I drop to 10's.

yes, I'm procrastinating taking it to Peitz Performance to have it finagled with.

I don't want to have to hear the "you are running this thing on the edge with a 77.5mm pulley" speech.

because...well.....I know that. just adjust the damn PE and send me on my way.


and...it's about to be wake-surfing season & my thick ass needs to get ready - so these kids don't put me to shame.

 

Going through a similar thing on my LSA supercharger. My plan is to have a bit more than a smidge of pressure with zero vacuum, because I'd expect the vacuum the valve is referencing doesn't fully go to zero as well as I want a firm engagement of the valve fully closing even if that means boost fully comes in a bit before WOT.

The Tundra on the other hand I just adjusted so at zero vacuum the valve had a smidge of pressure and called it good.

 

Got my home made traction bars installed. Really plants the rear end. Even with aLSD engaged it swung my rear around a corner. No difference in ride quality. Standard length is about 55 inches. I made mine 52 inches and still articulates with no binding.

 

Better hope them welds will last

 

Did you re use your existing u bolts?

 

I used 1/4 inch shock tabs and did a test weld on the frame and leaf plates. Each had good penetration. I spoke with a owner of a lifted Ram who had safety straps attached in case of a failure. But he uses it for sled pulling. I had your same concern.

 

I did.

 

To each their own, but I would consider replacing those U-Bolts if I were you. They're really only meant to be torqued down once. They're inexpensive and it could be costly (and a safety risk) should they snap, especially under the increased load they're on now.

edit: not trying to crap all over your diy trac bars - they look great. just want to make sure to voice the concern.

 

Thanks! Will do. And to think I did not know that!