General Supercharger Thread

What do you have installed?

 

Radium pvc is a good bet!

 

The check value is right after the fuel filter, and ya - it helps with the fuel pressure drops after the truck has been sitting for awhile.

Fuel pressure is solid, consistent 43.5

 

That seems pretty rich? Should the target be between 14.0 and 15.2?

 

Only if Grenades4Bacon likes Grenades4Engine

No for real though that is the WOT target, 14-15 would be more for idle/low load.

 

14-15 is for normal driving, once you get into the throttle it should richen out into the 10s. Even other engines like LS target in the 12s during enrichment. Low load you target stoichiometric (14.7), under load you want it more rich, and for the tundra you want it really rich. The stock sensors cannot read that rich. Your wideband will measure the same as the truck sensors UNTIL you hit that rich limit, then the stock sensor just plateaus and doesn't move but the wideband will keep reading an accurate value.

 

I have a J&L Oil separator. Good price, great product, easy install.

https://www.jlosc.com/

 

Thanks for answering. I should have given a bit more info...

 

There is a check valve on the walbro. I was trying to think of a restriction that comes and goes but it's a wierd scenario to be rich and lean. I believe you posted a log where it does it randomly.

 

Yup, same issue.

Walbro 450s do come with an internal check valve, but I found that it still needed a supplementary one. No issues since.

 

Well you do have the rich/lean issue. If it were me I'd remove any cause of resistance/restriction. You could always re-install the check valve after testing. It's the one thing that sticks out to me. Its location also doesn't prevent the return side from draining pressure if you have the stock fuel regulator? The stock regulator wil lhold pressure. My system only employs the walbro pump check and operates fine.
Have you tried hard wiring the pump to give it full voltage?

 

Well, when I installed the check valve, the issue was present before/after... and, I don't have any fuel pressure issues. ‍♂️

The fuel system isn't stock, I've got prospeed rails, aeromotive FPR, larger lines, FIC injectors and of course the check valve & pump.

Oh, yes! I ran a dedicated 10g wire to the pump, and verified it's getting the full voltage.

 

I'm just trying to going anything that may cause your issue. I was just going to ask if you hot wired your fuel pump.
My system is similar to yours and I'm running the tvs1900 also.
Are you boost referenced on the fpr?

 

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!1!!!!!!1!!!1

It looked like the ecu was dead for good but I decided to try and combine VF's bench recovery method with an HP flash just as a hail mary and it actually worked. Truck started right up and seems to be running fine.

 

Great news!

 

Can you go into more detail exactly what you did? That is absolutely awesome

 

You have to take the ecm out of the truck and take it apart (pain in the ass), so you can solder a resistor onto the board, then you reinstall the ecu in the truck and flash it, then remove the ecu, remove the resistor, put the ecu back together, reinstall, and if you're lucky it will be fixed.

I guess the resistor forces the board into boot mode or something. Tried the process a couple times with the VF Tuner recovery function, and it would say it took the flash but the truck still wouldn't start. I figured it was worth a shot to try the resistor thing and writing the tune with HP, since that's what bricked it in the first place, and it worked.

 

This is great! What size resistor, and where do you solder it?

 

Where did you get this info about the resistor trick?

 

Mat from VF tuner. He was extremely helpful.

 

In my case it was a 1k ohms resistor, and where it's soldered is ECU dependent. That's probably why Mat requested a pic of his board.

 

Yea, there's 26 little pads on the board that you jump 2 with a 1k resistor. No idea if it's the same for different versions. One thing I've learned is there are a ton of tundra ECUs

 

Nope - don't have that setup.

 

wonder how bad of a project this "supercharger wont spin" would be....$500 gamble? "Tundra 5.7 trd super charger. Comes with everything except coolant crossover pipe. Supercharger is broken. Won’t spin. Nose is still good. Comes with injectors fuel pump intake box all the necessary hardware external cooling pumps. Etc."

I'm in CA so i'd have to figure out how to get a carb sticker for this (guessing probably not easy).

 

Send it to superchargers online and assuming the case is fine then worst case it's like $3k for them to swap the rotor pack and everything else.

Carb sticker find a picture and have someone make it.

 

I'll look into it and reach out to them to see what they think. If it does cost 3k for the full swap, probably wouldn't make sense with that plus whatever else i'd need. Probably just better off waiting for a sale on a new kit that meant for my year.

Wish it was that easy. They are ruthless for checking numbers here.

 

If anyone needs an RCF throttle body here soon lemme know lol. I’ll be picking up Viktor G’s 103mm and comms cable.

 

I may take that off your hands! Will throw it on the GX

 

If Vizla doesn’t snag it you’re up! Be a bit before I throw it on. New intake tube, TB adapter plate and larger filter etc to come as well.

 

Cool beans! I'm in no rush. Don't really need it until the Whipple kit is out (late summer eta)