General Supercharger Thread

It may have attributed to higher cat temps but I doubt it would ruin the cat. The O2 code and towing may just be a coincidence.

 

Yes. PCV side only though. I've not seen any posts with CCV side accumulation.

The bigger question is which can is best since Radium changed their design.

 

I can't believe all that flak on the "Amazon catch can install" thread. You can give a pro or con reply but, Man give it a rest.

 

somewhere in this thread is a picture of the BUILT-IN pcv recycle system our tundras use. it's quite nice.

 

lol with image proofs etc. Whatever- what do we know? lol

 

Went out to rigs and coffee Saturday but had a chance to meet up with a few fellow tundra owners. One has a gen 3 with intake, jb4 tuner thing, 37s etc. He was claiming it would be a close run lol. Ran from 40mph and I was in 2nd and on the hit pulled instantly a half car and continued to freight train away at least 15-20mph rate. Good times

 

All gas engines have a PCV now, before they used to vent to atmosphere and drip the condensed oil vapor on the ground, or through a air filter on the valve cover (and drip on the engine, and then the ground), or get drawn out the valve cover into the exhaust via a one-way valve under vacuum and then burned off. They can't do this any more, obviously because of environmental harm of oil on the ground or excess hydrocarbons in the exhaust.
99% of the manufacturers just route the PVC to the intake, so any blow-by gets burned in the combustion chamber and any hydrocarbons get caught by the cats, good to go. The problem is the oil vapor from the PCV gets burned along with your fuel, meaning your fuel isn't burned as clean and you're leaving efficiency/power on the table. So, it's not necessary, but some of us would like to filter the oil out of the combustion chamber.

I found some old pictures from my Tacoma, NA V6. First picture is my installation and fresh fuel filter on the output of the catch can, second picture is the fuel filter after 3000 miles and third picture is how much the can caught between oil changes.

 

Which ones are recommended?

 

It's up to you and how much you want to spend. I'm rocking a $20 catch can that works well or you can spend up to $200. Whatever you feel is right.

 

You have an Amazon one ?
Intercooler location require changing the oil catch can’s install location ?

 

You could mount it on the either side of the SC or next to the intercooler reservoir. You may need to fabricate a mounting bracket. Look for catch cans that don't vent to atmosphere. Especially if you live in a wet area. Condensation/oil can accumulate in your valve covers.
You can search catch can for some location ideas.

 

Forgot something hit the tree on the way.

Didn't make any noise I hoped it was foam before forgetting about it.

No dent but won't just wipe off.

 

Some folks seem to have issues with the new Radium design. If I were to do it again I would go with the JT can. Other options are cheaper.

https://www.jlosc.com/JL-3-0-oil-se...ta-tundra-5-7l-2008-2021-toyota-sequoia-5-7l/

Edit: No special reason other than supporting a local business.

 

Is this the one?

https://www.tundras.com/threads/catch-can-summary-pcv-ccv.96935/#post-2461150

 

I mentioned it to him too in a pm and believe he's looking into the JL can.

 

Barely visible

 

@ViktorG camshaft testing:
https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/...7314&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-7777314

The dyno post:
https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/...ere-and-ready-for-testing.619010/post-7927354
Valve chart:
https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/...ere-and-ready-for-testing.619010/post-7940561

Second dyno run:
https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/...ere-and-ready-for-testing.619010/post-8450937

 

What are you guys running for plug gap? Whipple recommended switching to Denso IKH22 plugs which are gapped at .028, but notes that you could also keep the factory plugs which are gapped at .044. That’s a bit of a difference. The plugs above are .035; SCOL has a little blurb about plug gaps and generally recommends around .035 when adding a SC.

Anybody tried stretching that .028 gap out? Any problems or benefits to running a longer gap on these SC motors?

 

Excellent timing of this post @blenton I'm getting ready to order plugs before I swap my Harrop 80mm pulley on.

 

That's odd as a rule of thumb the higher the psi the colder the plug and smaller gap. Larger gap may increase chance of a misfire or blowout.
I just did a change 2 months ago still using the ikh24 flavor in the IX iridium gapped to .026.

 

Did you really just refer me to the search bar…?

 

Yes...but only because I know we've had this discussion a few times before, not to be a dick...
Mine are .022 per ProSpeed's suggestion, been working well at that gap for over 3 years now.

 

Ha. No worries. To be fair, I did try the search bar first. I recalled some semi-recent discussion about a different plug and found jowetts post I quoted above. But I didn’t feel like reading through all 460 pages. Again..

 

IKH24 @.028

 

I messed around with gapping down to .021 and up. I settled on the .026 but whatever gets your spark off...haha
A smaller gap could help deter a misfire. I dealt with a intermittent misfire and that happened with my plug opening up to
030.

 

This was the article from SCOL I was looking at the other day. They make some rules of thumb, but do say that it is engine-dependent.

https://superchargersonline.com/2002/10/16/the-skinny-on-spark-plugs/

I found this from NGK on heat ranges. Still not 100% on it, but it makes more sense.

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/understanding-spark-plug-heat-range

I also found this from ProCharger to be informative. Hopefully I'm not being led astray..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=ohhCoeQ2TSg

Of course, there are reasons why I'm asking about plugs. Mainly for curiosity, but the tech notes from whipple about being able to run stock plugs had me curious. I pulled a plug with about 1000 miles on it to verify gap the other day and found it to be pretty sooty - more-so than I recall seeing plugs and definitely more than I've seen on this truck. But the insulator appeared fine, so I'm guessing that means the heat range is correct - hot enough to burn off junk from the insulator, but cool enough to not cause misfires. So I decided to look more in to the gap, wondering if perhaps I could extend the gap a little; perhaps some of the soot is from a little bit of incomplete combustion from a smaller than necessary gap. Also took a bit hit on fuel economy at cruise on the highway. Ya ya ya ya - I know, don't install a SC and complain about money at the pump... Ha.

I'm still in the low boost range, only seeing 5.x psi at WOT. I think it blipped 6 psi once, but that's it. For reference, here's a pic of the plug. Rey and Sniv both chimed in already for me, which I appreciate. Just got me thinking a little bit and I decided to chase the rabbit hole. I've gotten so pampered just doing routine maintenance on this beast it's like I forgot how to figure out the why and how.

 

I decided to ask Mr Richard Holdener of Youtubedom about plugs; he got me straightened out on the hot/cold plug. Don't know why I was misunderstanding that. He also said I can run .100 plug gap and be just fine on a N/A motor... At least from a power making perspective.