General Supercharger Thread

I didn't think anyone really was running a 70mm at sea level, are they? Most of us Harrop guys stopped at the 77.5, and a few have the 75mm.

 

Well I think one person was but not for long....

 

I may be confused.... Thought a few on the 1900 were running Snivs smaller pullies...

 

There was one at 2.0 with the 1900 but that did not last long. Not sure if there were others. Forgot if @Fastlane47 has one for his build or if he's going for a different SC.
No way I'm going below 2.2 at sea level and only if 2.1 keeps me below 13psi. Approaching 14-15psi is the widow maker for long pulls...you can decide how long you want to take it!

 

13 psi seems nuts to me!

 

You get a YouTube award if you film 13+ psi! Haha I'd watch it!

 

I noticed the same with my ex after she gained a bunch of weight.

 

Hahah

 

UGH. Very last step replacing the fuel pump. I have the tank removed and now I'm struggling with removing the damn plastic ring. I have a tool that grabs it really well and it will spin with a 1/2" breaker bar with extreme force but the pump housing moves with it to a point and then it gets super hard. I cannot keep it from spinning with the ring. Any one have this same problem and advice how to resolve?

 

push down on the pump housing top while spinning the ring off, make sure the flaps on the ring don't catch on the triangles on the top.

 

I'll give that a shot, you'd think that would be in the instructions, keeping an eye on tabs and not to one yet. Probably should not beat on it correct?

I'm talking big time effort to get it to move with a 1/2" breaker bar. WTH

 

If it seems stuck, don't force it, try backing it off and reassess. I've used a hammer and screw driver to drive them off before, as long as you keep the basket pressed down so it doesn't rotate with the ring you'll be good.

 

Do you guys do anything different with regards to oil changes once supercharged? More often? Different weight? Different oil? etc

 

Nope- 5k miles, amsoil 5w30

 

5k
Costco 5w-30

I tested the Costco 0w20 and it was GTG.

I'll test the 5w-30 next change.

 

that did it, my 250lb ass pushing down on it from the top while my buddy used a hammer on the ring tool, needed the shock of hits to finally let loose. back together and tight AF and my fuel connections are where they need to be, my green arrow is about 15* from the yellow lines and I am out of fs to care. feels like that plastic ring will snap if i go any further.

 

I'm doing changes every 3K. Ran 0w20, now on 5w30.

Considering 0w30 but need to look at it more. I've considered starting a "best oil" thread to explore my options.

 

From what I could find and what was recommend, it is generally better to run higher oil grade on boosted applications. The higher grade is supposed to offer better protection but the oil also takes longer to absorb heat.

 

I reached out to a few oil MFG's asking the same question. Mobil 1 responded quickly to me. This was their response:

"Thank you for reaching out to us. When it comes down to performance enhancers, unfortunately, we do not have a specific database to refer to for alternate oils that can be used. We primarily can only offer engine oils based on what the manufacturer recommends in your owner's manual.

I would like to mention, that as the second number rises in multi-grade viscosity oils, the better protection the oil will offer in higher engine temperatures. Most oils that start with the 0W for startup performance will offer the best coverage range in low temperatures, and our 0W-30 and 0W-40 will offer very similar protection when experiencing high temps outside. There is a trade-off, as that second number rises, this will affect fuel economy as well. It may be worth doing some more research on the viscosity ranges, and also seeing what temperatures your vehicle is running at usually under boost/load. If there is little to no change, it may not even be needed to use a thicker oil like a 0W-40. "

That said, everybody I have reached out to on the forum has unanimously recommended going away from the factory 0w20 to a Xw30 oil. Found some 0w30 Mobil 1 locally and decided to change the oil this weekend. Engine sounds happier but obviously no time on it. Might try 5w30 the summer when it doesn't get so cold out.

 

I heard back from Innovate today. They sent me some data for the MAP sensor that should let me program a correct formula in to HP Tuners to get Boost to display correctly.

 

I've gone back and forth between 5w-30 and 0w-20 in my truck and never noticed much of a difference. 0w-20 seems a little quieter when cold, maybe. But that was all pre-supercharger.

 

keep in mind I had Costco 0w-20 in mine when it had 18 dyno runs to tune the injectors

+4700 miles

and blackstone reported a tbn of 4.6. No wear metals

so, just use oil

any oil

keep it full

 

I'm trying to remember back a few years on tundra solutions was a master Toyota tech recommended higher viscosity oil. He swore by using 40w for his supercharged ride. Especially if you enjoyed more spirited driving.

 

I've seen 0w-40 recommended a lot on some other sites for performance applications

 

Maggie 2650 installed and ripping. I think I over did it, the maggie tune drives about how my stock truck did with the banks pedal monster on second go banks pedal monster engaged and the damn thing came alive. Check engine light bank 1 too lean, bank 2 too lean, pre collision system malfunction, brake controller malfunction oh my!

Clear all the codes, blow out the dang TSS sensor connection i had apart for a few days and see if any come back, oh and remove pedal monster until ECU learns all the stuff.

 

You don't need PC with a SC...just hit T/H if you're needing sensitive gas pedals!! Congratulations!!

 

Don't forget your wideband to monitor how lean you're afr's are.

 

I agree with that for sure! Sometimes driving the tundra without TH on as I usually do leaves me feeling like it isn’t really that impressive, as I forget about the neutered throttle mapping they applied to the 2014+ trucks. Putting it in tow/haul snaps me (and my neck) back into reality of how much power is really on tap if you put your foot in it. It’s like sport mode, very saucy.

 

I've always used a large chissel with a towel wrapped around the end, and a weighted hammer. Tap tap tap and it comes off. Tap tap tap and it closes back up no issues