General Supercharger Thread

Well I found a few things at least with my base map that are wonky. For example under fuel/mulit rpm lo lower, the value is from 0 to 10/1000 rpm. The rest of the multis are 0 to 9600rpm. Mine was set at 1. So I changed that to 6 for 600rpm from 1/100 rpm lol. Also my PE table was only set to something like 5600rpm, thus my reason for leaning out on top I believe smh. So column axis from the trd up to now 6000rpm. Also under spark/advance/base-high octane and low octane the timing values are pushing some pretty aggressive timing in low loads throughout the rpm range, at least from the TRD tune. Im going to try dropping 3 degrees across 10/20% load across the rpm range. Also my base and high octane column Axis was off so I matched them. Idk hopefully it'll help.

 

The TRD tune is weird at best, and extremely difficult to understand what they're trying to do. I would start with the stock tables and modify from there.

SlowNStock said not to be overly worried about low load knock happening, though I still usually retard those values if it's getting counted a lot. The lowest load is usually 40-45deg. There's also transition lines for KCL where knock can show up as the KCL instantly jumps, but if your KCL is uniform everywhere I don't think that rears it's head really.

 

Okay understood just hate seeing any kind of knock. I was utilizing the stock TRD timing values, and boy are they aggressive! I scrapped those values and went with base tune timing across all three maps, -5 degrees on low octane. Figure at least from there I can work timing values up even though I may be losing a lot of power for now.

 

Speaking of TBs (many months ago) found how flowrate is calculated:
Cross-sectional area of TB bore x 300ft/sec.

No I didn't post on the wrong thread.

 

Call me chicken shit but I was doing some testing and only hit 75% throttle and was at 11.6psi...It was raining and in 4wd so didn't want to totally mash it. Also need to richen up PE a tad so it worked out.

 

Be careful! Hahaha this makes me giddy!

 

Damn and i was excited to see 8.5 lbs in the freezing cold the other day. I keep saying it but i really need to grab a sniv pulley!

 

It was 37 degrees and raining. My limit that I feel comfortable with is being in the 12 psi range but want to stay below 13psi. Not sure what the full wot will bring so I'm just inching closer...
I was just thinking that I have a full 3inch exhaust with high flow 200 cell cats. What that psi would be with stock exhaust?

 

Can't say I've read all 437 pages, but wanted to get some thoughts on how stupid (or smart) it would be to supercharge a 12 year old Tundra with 80K+ miles. What kind of reliability have folks had? Not only engine, but the rest of the drive train.

Not going to ask about fuel economy, I found that thread.

Definitely great info here if I dive into adding a SC.

 

I sc'd my 120k Sequoia and it has been problem free for 20k.

 

As long as the truck has been well maintained it should be no issue. Just don't go boost crazy without the correct supporting mods.

@snivilous put a blower on his truck late in the truck's life, 200K+, and nearly doubled his total mileage since then.

Transmission can handle more than what a baseline blower can dish out; you'll need to get an engine built before you need a built transmission.

Some installers will do an engine compression test and some other checks before doing an install.

Fuel economy may not change but depends on your driving style. Bypass valve deloads the rotors so it marginally impacts MPGs. Generally better to expect to get worse economy.

 

Supercharged my 2011 at 180K... just crossed 202K. So far so good!

 

Did my first engine at 60k and my second at 105k. @snivilous should be at 300k by now. No worries if maintenance has been done and in good working order!

 

Shit I wish, I was driving the 2JZ pickup a lot this summer so the tundra didn't see a lot of miles though it crossed 298k today. Might be picking up another toy tomorrow which might free up the tundra for some sportier activities.

 

Thanks for all the quick replies. Except for north east winters, the truck has had a pretty easy life with oil changes and all the other regular maintenance every 5k miles. I was hoping to do the install on my own and can do the compression checks, but would look for a tuner once all is in. Not looking for anything wild. Until I read this thread, I didn't even know that there was anything other than the Magnussen/TRD option. I'd probably keep it at those lower boost pressures.

 

I just put the maggy on mine with 78000 miles. DIY'd it in about 2 days. It's not a super difficult install and the kit and instructions are very well done. You'll want some help putting the blower into place cause it weighs a ton and it's a little awkward. Worth every penny so far.

 

famous last words.....

 

I got the report for the Five-O injector testing, looks like they were pretty dirty

 

Interesting, how long were they on the truck? May need to add cleaning injectors to the maintenance routine.

 

Brand new, never installed, purchased in February 23 and have been sitting in the packaging in my office. They looked spotless on the outside, but were not flowing what they should have been.

 

As long as you stick to the plan and don't get boost drunk.

If you are doing the install yourself, a few folks on here offer remote tuning (some through affiliates) such as:
@snivilous - https://www.snivspeedshop.com/
@mZiggy - https://www.yotawerxtuning.com/
@JustDSM - https://overlandtailor.com/

I would figure out which is best for you when you've picked a blower so you can coordinate tuning if you don't have a local guy.

 

What the heck, huh. That has me wondering how the last set of "brand new" ones I got from them would test. I never got a printout on the first set I returned, just what Bruce said via email. Who did you have test these, and what was your rationale, merely due to them sitting?

 

Got notification that my m

I picked @mZiggy or YotaWerx tuning. So far I'm impressed, Maggie 2650 goes in next weekend and I'll run the maggie provided tune for 1 day, then flash the Stryker 91/93 with GL the day after. Grip Pro starts tomorrow AM and then trans cooler! Getting excited!

 

what if one modestly imbibes with smaller pulleys?

and then sets out the unused larger pulleys out on the workbench, like fine bottles of bourbon?

 

I know, right? They gave them the old "Craigslist rebuild" wipe down and new O-rings...done! I had them tested at InjectorRX here in town, second place I tried and even they had to order Denso leads to test them. I wanted to get them cleaned and flow tested before wasting time installing and tuning after seeing everyone else having issues, like what you had reported.

 

I say tread carefully and godspeed my friend.

I dare not squeeze every ounce of power out my stock block.
The threshold for happy levels of boost to" yo' $#!+ up" (technical term) is a fine line for she is a cruel mistress.

 

Hmm, I'll have to ponder following your lead and have mine checked too.

 

I might as well get my 650s tested and dialed prior to install myself...I trust who I got them from but it's hard saying not knowing for sure!

 

Words of truth!

 

Anyone want either a used Aquamist or NIB AEM V3 Water Methanol Injection Kit 1.15 Gallon Tank w/ Fluid MAP Sensor 30-3300 ?