General Supercharger Thread

Only did a quick drive to get a log but it's a noticeable difference. Definitely builds boost quicker. Switched my fuel pressure regulator over to boost reference too, so PE needs a little tweaking.

 

That's great to hear! The 2650 already flow great, with the smaller pulley bet she pumping good air!

 

Officially joined the club! Geez, I wish I’d have done this years ago. Shout out to @reywcms and @snivilous for helping get things sorted out and tuned! Took it for a rip last night - I had to find patches of clear road between the snow drifts, but I kept in 4wd and this thing RIPS! Permasmile for sure. I love how instant the power delivery is. Snivs tune turned out on point, right out of the box, too. I’m beyond happy with the setup.

 

Another Whipple to the mix! Looks awesome! Fees like a big block doesn’t it?

 

Cries over here in NA...counting down the days until XAT releases the Whipple for the 2UZ-FE. ETA summer 2024

 

Yes, from what I understand, the ECU should be adjusting by pulling timing in relation to the hotter readings, so overall more conservative.

 

Check out Elate Mfg. out of New Zealand. They have 2uz 1900 kits available and I believe even a 2650 in the works. 11k NZD should be about 6800 USD.
https://elatemfg.com/product/elate-lx470-fdfi1900-intercooled-supercharger-kit/?

 

To add, my answer is very basic, as IAT is referenced in several tables, but I'm no tuner so I don't know how it correlates. I couldn't find anything about IAT called out specifically in SlowNStock's (HPTuners forum) documentation, but it is a part of the spark advance equation listed in his documentation:

 

I reached out to them originally, but then heard the Whipple was coming out. And all the Whipple talk around here has me FOMO lol

Elate did offer me a good deal on a 2300 kit a few months back. But I ended up redoing the GX's entire suspension first

 

I really can’t imagine wanting larger than a TVs 1900 on a 4.7. Anything larger will probably be lazy at low RPMs IMO. You can’t really crank the boost without snapping rods on a 2UZ if I recall correctly.

 

Ya the Whipple will also be a 2.3L.

I've no idea if there's any truth to it, internetting has no conclusive answer. But rumor is the 2UZ's built in America for the 4Runners had cast internals and the 2UZ's built in Japan for the Lexus GX/Land Cruizer Prado's had Forged internals. Would be nice if true for adding boost

 

Ya it does! The throttle is more like a dump valve than an ask button now. Stock, you step on it, ask for some power, and the motor replies by building up steam and pouring on power; with the Whipple, you step on it even part way and it just dumps power in your lap - no waiting. My kids were giggling in the back seat even with just enough throttle to pull through 3500 rpm. Roads were still too bad to give it any more beans.

When I heard Whipple was releasing a kit for our tundras, I decided to wait for it. I realize the kit has been out for a while but this is just how it worked out timing-wise for me. Well worth the wait, IMO. But I suspect any of the blowers will put a smile on your face.

 

Ive heard the same rumor..

 

Alright, who’s the one with a SC in Connecticut? LOL

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/gMn4g3ZNy0Y?si=JNUeyB5-vhEd3LVE

Snow testing

 

Nothing like a little snow to bring the kid out in ya!

 

Could be @ssmokedz maybe? You see him hooning around? Lol

 

Might be getting a deal on bds traction bars, less money than caltracs. Are they worth it or wait to get caltracs?

 

So I got my PSB-1 wired up and the AFR reading is way off - like 20:1. I followed the calibration steps provided in the manual (removed the o2 from the exhaust to calibrate, then reinstalled it). Anybody else have an issue with this? Did driving it for a week with the o2 installed without the gauge really mess up the o2 sensor?

 

Hmmm, you didn't disconnect gauge from power source at anytime when calibrating sensor, did you? Have you tried again? It took me x2 before it was "perfected." Driving around without the gauge hooked up to sensor will not hurt anything...it's only when you're sitting in the "On" position and not actually running when you heat the sensor up without the exhaust taming that heat...that's when you burn them out...how's the boost sensor working?

 

My PSB-1 was a bit wonky at first. May want to re-calibrate and datalog with VCM scanner to see if A/F is reading 1 lamba at idle.

 

Thanks. I was going to go try it a second time this evening as I figured I could have easily hitched it. Had one of my boys helping me with it so I’ll blame him. Haha. Watching a movie with the kiddos before they head to bed though.

I figure that it’s reading something and That reading was moving around a bit so hopefully the sensor is still good and it’s just a calibration issue.

I need to go pick up a length of hose to reach the MAF sensor so no idea how that’s reading yet. Figured I’d get the o2 done so I didn’t have to deal with the hot exhaust if I needed to adjust things. I haven’t plugged thr MAF sensor in to the gauge yet, but everything is wired and ready to plug in on both ends.

 

I can read my stock o2 on my head unit via iDatalink for general comparisons but I will definitely data log with my HP tuners module.

I should also note that I sourced my power from a new fused terminal on secondary power distribution block wired straight to the battery (like a Blue Sea unit but for not because I’ve misplaced that while organizing some stuff - figures, right?). That power is run through a relay that switches on with an add a fuse on the under hood fuse block that is switched with the key. Ground is run all the way back out to the battery for now. So it’s a dedicated line without anything else on it in case other electronics could be putting some weird back interference in to it.

 

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, the boost line should be run to the boost sensor which gets mounted in the engine bay. Where the boost port is on the Whipple I don't know, but the gauge doesn't get hooked into the MAF unless I'm missing something.

As for your weird O2 readings, hopefully it's not a bad sensor but someone on here I thought had a bad sensor out of the box. As said above, the narrowband and wideband should match up very close (mine is within 0.1, max 0.2 at all times) assuming the sensor location is after the collector for the exhaust primaries and before the cats.

 

Looks like @ViktorG is getting his videos back on track!
https://m.youtube.com/@Viktor_G_Automotive/videos

 

As long as you have constant key on power you're good. Psb-1 pulls no amperage interference won't be an issue.

 

Yes, pull vacuum from the blower to MAP sensor. FPR vacuum is connected before the MAF. You could cap that MAF connection, run line from your FPR to a tee, tee to blower and connect to map sensor for boost reference, preferred way to do it.

 

The o2 sensor is after collector, before cats.

The PSB-1 is able to monitor both AFR and boost in one gauge. I believe there are two boost ports on the Whipple with the passenger side manifold port being much easier to access. I verified with Rey to see what he used with his Whipple (he actually sent me pictures of both boost port and o2 locations before I even ordered the SC). I believe it was brought so as to see if the boost readings were wacko in correlation with the o2.

 

So, there was some recent discussion about changing the FPR to be boost reference which means not all blower FPR setups are boost reference - ya? I don’t know if the Whipple does, TBH. But thanks for the direction - I’ll see what I can find. But I do know there are two ports on the Whipple manifold that will provide access to boost readings if I need. Of course, all I’ve got in the shop right now is vinyl tubing. Doh.

 

Tried recalibrating. Open air, not in the exhaust, the sensor reads 22.4 at the end of the Calibration step. Back in the exhaust on cold startup it’s bouncing around 21.