General Supercharger Thread

Now I need to figure out how to cut holes in my hood for these...

 

$20 at harbor freight and you'll walk out with three different methods

 

Which one gives me the mad max look?

 

An axe.

 

So if you are running the 18 psi cap would the red coolant be better than the pink for cooling

 

Yes... absorbs more heat

 

50 50 mix with distilled water

 

Better red than dead

 

Also the throttle body bypass mod helps in temps I saw a difference in normal operating temperature.

 

I’ll be honest I don’t know why red would absorb more heat unless it actually has a higher specific heat than the pink which I have not found published for either anywhere. All I have really found is the pink is friendlier to aluminum than the red and has a longer service life. I don’t know the reasoning behind Matt suggesting the red was better for heat absorption.
https://garagedreams.net/products/toyota-red-vs-pink-coolant-which-is-better

 

A higher ratio of water will move more heat, 60/40 or even 70/30. Keep it above the freezing point and inspect coolant condition more often.

A degas/expansion tank will also help keep the coolant doing what it should.

 

I would think most people would run the pink with the higher psi cap just because it's easier than draining the system. I might change it at 30k but was wondering if it was a better choice over the pink coolant, what are you running

 

I still have the pink. I’d switch to red if I actually understood the science behind why it might be better. Like Jowett said, one thing that will definitely help is running a higher distilled water to coolant percentage which will increase the specific heat of the mixture and therefore it’s ability to absorb heat.

 

I've noticed that my water temp is higher with the Supercharger, it sits at 203...before it was always 200 or below,TB bypass help any in that regard

 

I could see the TB bypass helping lower IATs, I actually did measure a difference in IATs after doing that mod. I would think it wouldn’t do anything for coolant temp though. If anything the coolant was probably rejecting a very small amount of heat into the air passing through the throttle body. In other words, I could see having a negligible amount more heat rejection with the TB not bypassed than bypassed. But who knows!

 

Toyota used to install small reverse thermostats on the throttle body coolant warming circuit. They shut down coolant flow over a certain temperature in order to reduce over heating of the throttle body when conditions are favorable for it. 1st gen Tundras have them.

 

My mechanics state the red stuff is a superior coolant...yes, it requires being changed every 30k miles or every two years versus pink stating 10 years or 100k miles. He mentioned they switched to pink for EPA requirements and red protects the coolant systems parts better and though it may not "cool" better on its own, it making the coolant system happier is an indirect reasoning to why it may cool better...

Sheesh, what's in this coffee I'm drinking?!

 

My truck ran 198-201 all the time. Now 194-198 after tb bypass this was before the new blower and water wetter etc

 

Maybe @ViktorG has thoughts on red vs pink coolant.

 

I always loop one of the hoses to the other fitting when I get a new vehicle. (did the BMW last week when the intake was swapped)

 

Just wanted to update with my final gauge pod setup. I've been trying a few ideas and haven't been happy with the look/fitment until now. Originally I tried the Mustang vent pod ring from Glow Shift. While that one did fit into the Tundra vent it was not a solid mount even after trying a few different ways to secure it I was never really happy with it. Next up I went with the Cravenspeen flexpod mount. My plan was to just utilize one pod since the Innovate PSB-1 does both AFR and Boost in the same gauge. My issue with this mount was just the location of the gauge. I felt like I was just settling on this because the vent mount idea sort of fell through and let me down.

After searching high and low I came across a posting on Etsy for a vent mount gauge pod for the 2016 - 2023 Tacoma. Based on the pictures included in the posting the Tacoma vent itself looked identical to the Tundra. The seller has many pod mounts for different models, but nothing listed for the Tundra. I gave it a try for $35 and the pod arrived today. It fits into the Tundra trim with a perfect fit. The 3D printed pod has the same tabs as the OEM Tundra vent and it clips into the dash trim just like it was meant to be there. The pod fit the Innovate gauge with no modifications whatsoever and is rock solid. The only item that will need to be addressed is the gauge bracket which needs to be trimmed a little since it's too long.

I've sent an email to the Esty seller notifying them that this gauge will also fit the 2014 - 2021 Tundra in addition to the 2016 - 2023 Tacoma that is listed on their site. Below is the link to the item if anyone is interested. I can't recall who else was running the vent pod from GlowShift, but I'd seriously recommend swapping to this mount if you are unhappy with the fitment.

2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma Vent Pod N300 3rd Generation - Etsy

**Cravenspeed Flexpod is available if anyone is interested.
EDIT: Cravenspeed Flexpod has been sold.

 

Badass.. and I just bought one too as a just in case...haha looks outstanding!! Have you thrown it in yet?!

 

What if you have the 160 thermostat in? How would that play a role with mixing the 18psi thermostat and the red coolant? What’s the “cooler” set up between the three variables?

 

I installed the MAP sensor and ran some of the wiring to get power and the dimmer connections over to the vent. I was waiting for the vent pod to arrive before fully hooking it all up. I still need to find time to get the bung welded in. I'm going to have Performance Muffler do the bung, but they are only open Mon-Fri so it might take a little time before I can accommodate that with my work schedule.

 

Seller is quick with the update. They responded to my review and already updated the title to include the Tundra!

 

The higher psi cap is just raising the boiling point of the coolant. Helps prevent hot spots in cylinders and any chance of air pockets from boiling. The lower t-stat is just moving your water to cool at a lower temp and doesn't affect the boiling point. As stated earlier by jowett having a higher content of water aids in cooling at a 70/30 to 60/40 ratio. We're not raising it a lot from 15 to 18psi but you should have decent hoses, water pump and radiator ad we are increasing the pressure.

 

about the same as mine. 200-203 pre blower, now 194-196. I also replaced tstat and water pump tho. Not sure if that’s having an impact.

 

Can someone post a picture of their Magnuson 2650 engine bay so I can update the first page. And if there's any special info or links to things that should be there, post that too

 

Borrowed this picture from one of @ARES35 posts. I picked up 2 ft of vacuum line today from Ace Hardware so I can move the Map Sensor father away from the blower. Is there any reason I can't drill into the firewall and mount the Innovate Map Sensor here? Anything to be cautious of when drilling there? I can't imagine anything would be right behind the firewall there, but ya never know...