General Supercharger Thread

That's how I set it up, right when boost kicks in PE activates, and PE is constant the whole time. I've toyed with the idea of having the lower rpm not engage PE (or at least not to the 10.5 range), specifically so when cruise control is on I can hover more into boost without PE tanking fuel economy (especially towing). But alas I'm too lazy to actually toy with that, and at the end of the day I'm more concerned with being conservative and safe so if there's boost, there's all the extra fueling. I usually aim to have a max of 2-3psi before PE kicks in. Much more than that just sounds like a lot of boost without extra fueling. Usually that's 30deg throttle to activate.

 

That's crazy. It is one of the benefits I hear touted about the centrifugal superchargers is better low end power as to not disrupt traction or need traction control interventions.

 

I think that setup didn't build boost as low as a roots style would, but it did almost 400ftlbs at the wheels. That's a lot in a light little truck. I wish I still had the dyno graphs to see the tq curve.

 

Reading some threads on Tundra Solutions and ran into this post:
https://youtu.be/_7Mrho6uW3U?si=DTMH_IoFfkPro6O6

 

I believe that approaching 4psi we should be in PE and shooting for 10.5 to 10.1. Reason being: We have seen and heard about engine failures at the higher boost range. We shouldn't forget about those who were just in the 6psi range that had failures too. Why Toyota stopped the SC from being offered. Keep those cylinders cooled...combined with proper tuning we see less failures.

 

As @snivilous tuned my truck ramping up PE earlier I still saw an increase in mpg's. Could be everything done before was killing my mpg and he got it back. Every little bit counts while still shooting for safe afr's.

 

On my 80mm, if I pull hills in a higher gear and didn’t force a downshift it would hit 2-3psi max before PE started. With no changes to the tune and using the 77.5mm it will go to 3-4psi max under the same scenario. I think I’m fine with it, it’s only at part throttle making maybe half of peak power at less than half throttle and load, running under 2500rpm.

My thought/question is…It’s not strictly the boost pressure that butts the rings is it? I would assume the actual load on the engine and high IATs combined with the boost pressure is what causes the problems?

 

Yes, higher cylinder temps causing rings to expand with the already tight ring land clearance. I belive you posted the Matt and Chris exchange where Chris was stating its a ring issue and Matt 's multiple symptom issue. Although cylinder 5 had most failures. I had 3 when mine failed. Cylinders 5, 8 and 6. Where 8 being the worst. Why I also went with the higher 18psi TRD radiator cap always ran red coolant. Also @reywcms mentioned the water wetter. Not sure if it works but cheap insurance adding it to both engine and SC cooling system.

 

That's my philosophy too, cylinder pressure/heat/load. I ramp my PE up a bit and let it stay in 12's around 3,000 rpm.

Once I play with TC lock changes, I will review how it's working and holding gears/engine load.

 

Agreed, it's not strictly boost pressure. Though temperature is proportionate to pressure, and I know if I do a long pull under mild boost my engine temps start to climb. Not drastically by any stretch, but engine temp can climb up to 212 after a few miles of grade at 3-5psi. Enough of a change and consistently to correlate the two in my case.

 

Used a smoke machine to locate an exhaust leak where the catback exhaust mates with the longtubes (post cat and 02).

Given that Nat Speed uses a sniffer for tuning wouldn't their reading potentially read leaner than actual (more 02 in the exhaust)?

Should I retune after I fix the leak?

What say wise ones?

 

I just ordered some LLC Red Sauce...cheapest I have found it is at Newparts.com...ordered 3 gallons and we need 2...thanks for the reminder!

 

When I google that all I get is spaghetti sauce recipes. You're not putting Nona's Tomato Sauce in your truck by any chance, are you?

 

Hahahaha

 

Hey guys from the look of it alot of you are targeting A/F's in the 10's. I understand trying to keep the combustion chamber cool and the rings happy but I'm used to aiming in the 11's, even high 11's especially up here. The stock Maggie tune im consistently 11.5-11.8, seeing absolutely no knock and good fuel trims. In our supercharged application am I missing something? Once I get the pulley I plan to tune for the extra air of course and taking the timing up whilst watching fuel pressure to make the most power. Wanted to
to target 11.5 to see where I'm at but I seems my plan may be flawed.

 

Both of the guys that have tuned my truck said to be in the 10s to keep the rings cool

so I did.

 

Interesting. I know running to rich you risk washing out the crosshatch in the combustion chamber. Also carbon but this usually is when dumping fuel for extended time.

 

Convetially youre correct as most tune for power and try to hit the mid 11's.
The 3urfe cylinders need to be kept cooler as the ring lands have tighter tolerances and not lot of room for expansion. When the SC first came out there were quite a few failures. One of the common cause was the ring land failure. Why most tuners target 10.5 to 10.1 and sacrifice a little power for safety.

 

Understood thank you for the explanation. I will aim for a richer A/F once I go smaller pulley. As of now with my lower boost pressure I suppose the canned tune target of 11.5 will do....... Just waiting for a dang pulley so I can get a real tune dialed in.

 

I have a Mishimoto & the LLC red waiting to go in, I had not seen this dilution idea, what is the right %?

 

the answer to the question you didn't ask.

DUAL THROTTLE BODY INLET SYSTEM

https://magnusonsuperchargers.com/products/dual-throttle-body-inlet-system

 

Wow! Haha, that's all for show and can't really improve anything beyond speed of boost...pretty cool though!

 

agreed - I would think there is LESS orifice volume.

 

Imagine the whine!

 

Yeah that'd be worth it just for the audible pleasures!

 

Whipple's install manual calls out adding water wetter. 1 bottle for the blower and I believe I also did one for the rad maybe 2 can't remember

 

I'm a huge fan of water wetter in water only racecars. I've heard mixed anecdotes/stories about compatibility with various LL coolants.

Who's been using it with what coolant for how long?

 

I just added 1.5 bottle to my 50/50 red coant mix for engine and 1/2 bottle for IC. I didnt read about incompatibility only mixed results if it worked with coolant. I figured it's cheap insurance with 18 pai cap. @reywcms mentioned using it in his.

 

I still haven't pulled the trigger on the damn dampener. Currently waiting for a quote on a monster alternator as well.