General Supercharger Thread

Most likely the same 535cc they've always included.

Here is a chart I made to predict the 1900 pulley size vs altitude vs injector requirements. I would assume if you scale the pulley sizes (ie the 2.3 line is 94% the size of the 2.45, so it'd be the same as whatever pulley is 94% your size as stock) then it should be fairly similar since the stock setup is similar boost to the 1900 in stock form.



I also completely agree with Silver, if you're buying a pulley and Magnuson already said they won't warranty if they know you have a pulley, buy from anyone else but them.

 

why would it be ill advised to run the smaller pulley at or around sea level? Too much power? Any supporting upgrades that would make it safer? Or just a full retune

 

Yeah told them ill uninstall, return and go turbo route lol. I'm going to leave it stock and never modify per Magnusons recommendation because that's the right thing to do. Anyways at least now some pullies are on the radar for the TVS

 

Your turning the rotors faster creating more boost, thus needing more fuel to match and a tune to dial it in.

 

Well I guess you could if you have a larger fuel pump and injectors than the magnuson kit comes with, a bigger intake tube than the magnuson, and some big ol’balls and dollar bills for if it goes boom. A couple members here run their Harrops with a 75mm with no real problems. I personally am calling it good at the 77.5 based on how I use my truck for towing frequently and such, and I don’t feel like spending more money on the fuel system to safely run it. I think my 4” intake, 650cc injectors and 340lph pump are all approaching maxed out with the 77.5. I think the 75mm may require me to upgrade all of those. Im not spending all that paper money to risk blowing it up lol. I’m very pleased with how quick it is right now.

 

Finally be able to see exactly what kind of boost and how rich of a tune this Magnuson kit and tune is throwing out in stock form at 5280'. I'll get some data logs up for reference after install

 

My goal would be to run whatever pulley gets me as close to "stock pulley at sea level" performance but at my elevation.

 

I talked to whipple today and was told that even though their kit says it's for non-FFV only, it will work fine on flex fuel trucks you just can't run E85. I had pretty much decided on the magnuson 2650 but that changes things. I'm working my way through this whole thread but in the mean time, is one kit much better than the other? Fit and finish, power, maintenance, etc. I'm not trying to go to stage 11 and blow my truck up, just want to bolt on the blower and go.

@reywcms

 

All these kits are bolt on and go essentially. But there’s a few things on each of them that are recommended just as precautions/beneficial I would say. I went with a Whipple from a Maggy for various reasons some may or may not agree on twin screw style vs roots, larger displacement etc. You can’t really go wrong with any of these kits. Plus my future plan of building a stroker motor and cranking the boost up

 

I have installed a transmission cooler in my truck, modded my LX for Tundra brakes, and performed all my own maintenance. I kinda want to buy the Magnuson 2650 kit. What exactly is involved in installing a SC?

1. Purchase kit
2. Install kit
3. Have someone tune it


Or is the Maggie tune that comes with it ok to run? How would I install (upload???) the included Magnuson tune? I just don't know much about this.

Even though I can follow instructions, a lot of what I read in this thread seems foreign to me, so I'll tap the sign:

 

Are you talking about catch cans and stuff like that or actual shortcomings with the kits like the coupler thing on the maggie?

 

Both- for example the harrops and Whipple utilize the stock airbox. Does it work? Sure. But if I’m already there why not add a bigger box like the Maggy box. I also didn’t feel like replacing my coupler on my Maggy. Not sure how the new ones are but at least on the 1.9 it’s a maintenance item. Also the canned tunes aren’t great so a tune is definitely recommended. If you’re spending the money on the blower why not optimize the areas that can be done?

 

I have the Maggie 2650 non flex fuel. Basically install kit. For me no dropping tank for new fuel pump. Although I have the fuel pump for backup since I got the non FFV. It'll come with HP RTD with instructions. Send off you trucks ECU information. Magnuson will send a tune file. Upload and tune. Make for damn sure you empty out any shit gas. Then pull some WOT runs to data log. To my surprise so far the stock tune is clean. Good fuel trims, no knock/timing retard. But I bet it's dumping fuel and is rich asf. Need to buy a A/F wideband and boost gauge. From there can tighten up the tune, add more timing, lean out A/F if super rich. This would be at sea level low altitude imo. Elevation I'm at im in need of some A/F and boost datlogs, mod from there...... But my air is thin. If your low, stock kit will be plenty id just make sure your tune is clean wherever you're at

 

I appreciate the reply, but I have no idea what you're talking about after the 4th sentence.

What is HP RTD?
How do I send off my truck's ECU info? Does that involve Techstream or plugging something into my OBD port? Is this also how I upload a tune?
I have to send ECU to Magnuson to then receive a tune from them?
For that matter, I upload the tune, and then I tune the tune?
Or does uploading a tune need to involve a shop/dyno?

Sorry, I am completely ignorant of this (toddler/labrador retriever, remember?). Most of what I see is people dropping their truck off for someone else to take a few days to do the work and put it on a dyno. That's really not feasible for me. But it seems you just bolted it on and went. That piques my interest. It just sounds fun, and I'm quickly approaching the end of my warranty.

I guess if it's all in the kit and the instructions are straightforward, I'm probably good. I can follow instructions. There are just a lot of terms I have no idea about in this thread. Guess I will search for "boost for dummies"...

 

I highly suggest you go on Magnusons website. Select TVS2650 for our trucks. Go down to manual/documentation/calibration. Download. Read the both the installation and calibration manuals. When you done read it again. This way you will see what is required to run this kit. Good luck.

 

I did read the install instructions. That all seems super straightforward. Didn't see the tuning instructions

 

Hopefully someone will correct any errors if I misrepresent something below.

This is RTD. It is how the tuning software interacts with the vehicle.:
https://www.hptuners.com/tdn/#RTD

The device above pulls the information via the software.

No just the ID or file from the software after it reads your ECU.

Sort of yes. Maggie sends you a canned tune. You can refine the tune afterwards if you wish which is recommended.

No you can write the Maggie provided tune to your ECU yourself. In order to not brick the ECU folks run a battery tender during the write process.

No need to apologize. Purpose of this thread is information sharing. No such thing as a stupid question.

It will come with time. I'm still learning new things from this group every day. I'm sure I'm not the only one.

 

Magnuson has the tuning documentation for download. Take a read, it may be a bit confusing but will make sense if you read thoroughly. Any questions after let us know!

 

Is the Magnuson 2650 HP tune locked?

 

In the VCM suite it shows the tune but I have not opened it...... I've only datalogged so far.

 

I doubt you can view and edit it, but I’m just guessing.

 

After reading some hundred plus pages of the thread, I'm trying to get my ducks in a row. Have a few questions... @snivilous and @reywcms have graciously answered many of my questions up to this point, which I sincerely appreciate. I'm sure I will continue to hassle them.

I'm planning on installing a Whipple supercharger on my '13 5.7 in the very near future. The truck is a daily driver; I tow and haul frequently and am at altitude (4500' and frequent 6000') so the SC is to make up for that. And for fun. Cuz I'm trying to be realistic. I WILL open it up from time to time despite my best efforts to-not-to.. But I rarely floor it completely. From what I've gathered, the kit comes pretty complete but there are still a few things that need to or ought to be addressed. My questions fall in to basically four categories: Air, fuel, tuning, and monitoring.

Air
The whipple retains the factory airbox but I've been advised that the Magnsuon box is the way to go. Where is the best place to source the box? I think the part numbers for the Maggie box upper and lower are: 35-19-57-020, 35-19-57-025, and 35-19-57-026. Magnuson's site doesn't bring up some of those parts; Summit shows them but not in stock. I may well have copied the numbers down incorrectly. Perhaps I need to cal SCOL and ask about it.

Does that include a larger intake tube? As I understand it, the larger intake tube allows the velocity to decrease making the MAF voltage drop. A larger intake allows for more volume at the same velocity, so when tuning, that larger intake allows you to flow more air using the stock MAF without maxing out the voltage. I believe the maggie is 3.875"? I'm also assuming the stock air filter drops in to the magnuson box?

Even with the larger maggie, the throttle body is still only 78?? mm, but unless really pushing the envelope, I don't really need a larger TB like the RCF TB.

Also, on the air-side of the equation, I've been advised to move up a pulley size due to altitude. It's been a few years since the truck has seen sea level. Is there anything else I'm missing on the air side?

Fuel
The kit comes with a DW340 LPH pump and "high flow fuel injectors". Does anybody know what size the new injectors are? 650's maybe? Given my above-mentioned plans for air handling, I would assume that the DW340 is sufficient for my usage? I really don't want to starve the engine for fuel and run it lean to burn up a piston or some such.

I'm also under the assumption that the kit comes with a new fuel pressure regulator that is boost regulated..? Or is that something I should/need/must upgrade on my own? Anything else on the fueling side I need to consider? And, yes, I premium fuel in the tank.

Tuning
I have an HP Tuners MPVI3 and credits for the tundra. @snivilous will be helping with with the tuning. There is local guy that has done lots of Tacomas and such but I'm not super impressed with him after talking things over with him. I think he might be a part of the OTT network, but I might be misremembering. I like Sniv's approach to tuning and I like working on my own vehicles so I think that is the best route for me. No real questions there... yet... Other than.. if I pay the dealership or a shop to do the actual install, am I ok loading the a tune in before dropping it off? Or is best to load a tune and data log after the install? I'm assuming they will take it for a rip and warm things up to make sure all is working before handing the keys back to me. I'm still planning on doing the install myself, but the dealership quoted me $1500 for the install which isn't bad, IMO. BUT... the GM and I don't get a long. In fact, I don't think most of the people that work for him get along with him... I've had several discussions with their master tech in the past and would actually trust him to do the install (he's done dozens of the TRD kits when they were offered; he also owns, drives, and tows with his personal tundra) but I still don't want to deal with the GM in the event something comes up.

Monitoring
I plan to add some additional gauges to monitor boost and AFR. Any recommendations? I think I've gleaned that AEM makes a reliable setup for both. I plan to add a wideband due to the limitations of the stock O2 sensors, but the boost gauge should just plug in to one of the ports on the S/C, ya? Reywcms clued me in to where the 02 bung needs to be installed and my local exhaust shop shouldn't have a problem putting that in. I may have them add and H-pipe and a helmholtz resonator before the Magnaflow while they are in there..

Alternately, I've been looking at a Banks iDash; I like the multitudinous amounts of data that can be displayed and the compact form factor. But it appears to be complicated if I wanted to integrated a boost sensor and wideband AFR sensor in with all the other data from the OBDII sensor. Perhaps @ToyFan can chime in? It looks like I would need to spend $420 on the gauge, $300 on a 4 module analog interface, $30 on an OBDII splitter, $80 on a pressure sensor, and an undetermined amount on a soon to be released Wideband 02 sensor (or do some legwork programming and calibrating a Bosch o2 sensor to work correctly with the iDash via a $30 pigtail). So I think that's not really an option.

With my MPVI3, I think I purchased a ProLink cable; any tips on how to wire that in with a gauge set so that I can data log Wideband O2 using HP tuners along with all the other engine data? Should make Sniv's job easier...

Thanks for reading my novel and responding to my ramblings. I want to make sure everything goes as smoothly as possible with my upgrades

 

For the 2013 you only need the upper lid you can find it for about$194 at most Toyota online parts store. It has the taller lid for more air volume and 4 inch pipe. I found one online but searching for info.
For your application the 78mm TB is good.
The install is pretty straightforward. Dropping the tank can be awkward but easy with it almost on empty.
The dw340 and 650's are perfect for spirited driving.
Prolink attaches to the 5v reference wires from either AEM or Innovate gauges.
I have mine wired for boost and AFR's using AEM failsafe. It's older but a dual setup with boost and afr. Not sure if innovate boost can be sent to hpt suite. Both have instructions on how to wire reference wiring up.
Good luck and install is easily done.
Also the 43psi fuel regulator is enough for this system.

 

If I remember correctly it is locked.

 

Ok this makes sense. I didn’t think there would be an issue besides just adding supporting mods. But doesn’t seem worth the added cost or risk… given I’m at sea level. Thanks

 

sea level...pssshh

in some parts of Houston, we are below sea level.

go get the smaller pulley.

 

When we approach 13psi we are hitting an area that the 3URFE can have issues. The piston ring lands are already tight and with the higher heat can expand and cause a catastrophic failure. Any hiccups in the fueling and knock/spark advance can lead to a failure too. The rods and pistons pins are not forged (questionable) combined with the higher heat from combustion is not a good combination. That's why we shoot for a rich AFR mixture, 10.5 and lower to cool things down. At a high psi you need a built forged engine and supporting fuel and air system.

 

Makes perfect sense to me. I knew there was a max psi, but wasn't sure what it was on the motor for stock internals. Hoping to get some new data this week on my afr's through the powerband to know where I stand. Thanks for the insight.

 

The Whipple comes with 650cc injectors. The maggy box to the whipple may need some couplers but I would try the rubber tube that comes with it first it may stretch. We added some couplers and pipe when switching to the larger rcf tb. The black tube is the one included in the kit

 

I’ve read that the stock crank and rods are forged hmm can anyone of the master techs confirm?