General Supercharger Thread

So hard to tell in the video especially with the smaller pulley. Sounds like a combo of blower whine and coupler.

 

I understand, video is tough and there's wind noise from the radiator fan too. The unit has about 30k miles on it, I can't recall what the typical duration of the stock coupler is generally considered to be, I know there can be a lot of variables, like the influence of the smaller pulley.

 

My coupler lasted a year so I’d say a few years of normal use is about right.

 

I just had a Blinding Flash of the Obvious, I'll put the other larger pulley on and have another listen.

 

Haha blower whine at idle

 

@Wynnded Not much to see under the plate. Just a cooler brick and a triangle section for rotors. I had to take it apart twice to inspect it and clean up the cooler brick after I blew the engine. The video sounds like rotor whine to me.
.

 

Thanks for that picture. It looks from that that there wouldn't be a line of sight to the bearings and thusly no point in my taking the time to remove the plate. I showed @snivilous the same video and he hypothesized that it might just be a unique harmonic of my setup. It's just not a very nice sounding sound, and so far as I've noticed, it only happens after the engine starts to warm up. I had to run to storage to collect the larger pulley and am going to dash over to work to swap them. Thanking @snivilous for modular pulleys!

 

I was right around 30K on the blower when my stock coupler started rattling. Replaced it with the SCOL coupler and it's been silent for the last 5K miles now.

 

So I may've allowed myself to get a little worked up about the screee sound. I installed the 2.3 pulley and the blower didn't make the noise, I reinstalled the 2.0 and went for a whip, and still no screee. It was several hundred miles of running the 2.0 before the sound began, so I'll wait to see if it returns. Oh, and for no logical reason whatsoever, I reinstalled the 2.0 reversed from before.

Tangent: I found that one of the pulley bolts was broken. That took a while to remove. I finally discovered that there was just barely enough of the bolt sticking out the back side of the stub to get a needle nosed pliers on and work it out the back side. It was too long though and would run into the nose seal. I grabbed a side snip and was able to get that between the stub and the seal to snip off a bit of the bolt so I could then continue to thread it through some more, I had to do that twice. Somehow during removal I bent another bolt, and then during install, I dropped another. I'm not normally that hamfisted, wtf. The dropped bolt landed between the serpentine belt and the crank pulley. They're not magnetic, so I eventually knocked it out of there, then it landed on a wiring harness just below that. I poked at it until I heard it "ting" onto the front skid plate. I was going to leave it there as there isn't much room with the TRD skid to reach up in there. Fortunately it landed near the edge and I fished it out. More kudos to @snivilous for including a generous number of spare bolts, and it seems that he may've been onto something with the harmonics hypothesis. Time will tell.

I don't know if the coupler can be tested by simply rotating the pulley back and forth trying to detect play, but mine doesn't have any and it's not noisy with that sound being absent.

I have to say, with that 2.0 pulley I'm now registering 6psi performance relative to sea level while at 8000ft elevation as predicted in @snivilous's charts. I truly didn't anticipate what a difference that makes. Now that I'm actually experiencing what a Stage 1 is like for the first time, I'm marveling at and envious of what those of you who've gone beyond that are experiencing.

 

Success sounds great! Nice work on recovering your finger-wits! How many miles are on your current coupler? I'm pushing 75k on my TRD setup... do I enjoy some "normal" boost levels or wait and rebuild then enjoy?

 

There's about 30k on mine. The madness of indecision...

 

Thats an adventure! I know when I've done the coupler there was nothing obviously defective about it, it still seemed plenty tight (ie no obvious backlash between the pulley and rotor side) but changing it fixed it. Though mine always made very noticeable noise from inside the cab at idle/no load from a bad pulley, though I don't remember explicitly looking in the engine bay and hearing if the engine sounded any different standing in front of it.

It's weird the pulley would stop it, I could maybe see the 2.3 stopping the noise due to changing the frequency of the blower but then why wouldnt it do it again with the 2.0? Weird.

I'm glad you're enjoying more boosty bois! It's amazing what a sea level user must experience and how easily they can make power. Hopefully you get it resolved and hopefully it's not the pulley causing it! But keep me posted. At least you have multiple sizes to help troubleshoot which is a nice "feature" I've never thought of hahaha

 

Christmas came early. Guess the kids don't need presents. Well they are in their 30's...haha
Got the Super Sniv pulley setup in 2.2, some 750cc fiveO injectors and a homemade 4.5 inch intake for the RFC throttle body. Getting up the guts to hack up the TRD intake. Will grind and cut flange to fit inside of intake. Want to keep drop in filter. Think I have room for a second SABM on fender. Will have 3m glue for aluminum to ABS and either rivet or bolt for added measure. Thinking rivets from outside in case one gets loose so its not sucked in. Will get in touch @snivilous for getting it dialed in.

 

I don't know if it's gone for good, like I mentioned, I put a couple hundred miles on it before it started. Now that it's not currently present, I have a bevy of errands slated for tomorrow, so we'll see what develops, if anything. For a while there I thought that I spun the blower too fast and wrecked a bearing, that would've been inconvenient timing. I can't say that the 2.0 caused the sound either, it's possible that it may have been at a different frequency and the pulley changed it enough to bring it within human hearing range.

 

Swapped down to the 77.5 pulley today. Got the swap down to 13 minutes once I pop the hood to finish. Loctite and torqued 7 ft lbs.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/-nTHo9FkfWY?feature=shared

 

I gave the throttle a few stabs this evening with this cooler weather coming through. Felt pretty spicy! It’s been a while since I drove in temps in the 50s though so it’s hard to give a direct comparison to the 80.

 

First test drive will be tomorrow morning and it will be chilly. I just swapped it on and started it to make sure the belt didn’t fly off.

 

I’m jealous

work and shit have gotten in the way

I’m looking at this Friday to put on the pulley and Trd box

adulting sux.

 

I'm at sea level. Its fun but I still need more boost!!!

 

@snivilous not sure if you know or anyone else may know, but I have three Permanent DTC codes I can't figure out for the life of me. See link for thread below. I'm wondering if I use HPTuners to turn off those three codes, would that mess anything up if I then tried to start the truck again? I'm just thinking that maybe since they're present the computer is preventing the truck from running (currently starts then stalls after revving to around 1500RPM). The three codes are about Throttle Position Sensor, but even after swapping out the TB, they persist. Wiring all appears to be fine and have proper volts

https://www.tundras.com/threads/202...ght-after-starting.131445/page-2#post-3345570

 

I'd be surprised, but worth a try. Making the codes not show up won't change the fact the computer is having issues controlling the throttle body. The codes are a byproduct, not the actual issue is my thought.

 

Ya, i agree. Just hoping I'm overlooking something somewhere. I'm going to thoroughly inspect as much wiring as I can tomorrow

 

Have you checked the actual throttle pedal? I'm not sure how the Tundra works, but on my 2JZ it looks at an accelerator pedal position sensor, then it commands the throttle body to move, and then the throttle position sensor confirms the motion. Since your code is throttle PEDAL position sensor and not just throttle position sensor (TPS) makes me suspicious you're not looking at the correct sensor, and maybe it's the sensor thats connected to the pedal itself?

 

I disconnected and reconnected the pedal today but no dice. If i rev during the startup I can get to 4k rpm before it stalls.

 

@M3Tundra-JK do we have to do a throttle relearn after new battery? Saw this on Toyota nation. Thought it couldn't hurt to try...I never had to.

 

I tried a version of that last week. Just steps people had posted, but nothing official. And wasn't sure if its the same procedure on the 2021 with push button start.

 

Did you replace the pedal or test the sensor like you did with the TPS?

 

No haven't ordered a pedal yet. Didn't find one on Amazon for an easy return. Calling insurance and dealership tomorrow. Only 10k miles on truck so one of them.should be covering this. The shop can't drive the truck to the bed liner spray in place until its running

 

Since I'm out of the loop, what's happening? Returning the truck to stock to sell it?