General Supercharger Thread

According to page 1 Sniv said 117 is the stock belt length I'd go down .5" or 1"

 

Looks like the closest one Gates has 115".. might be too tight

 

The Magnuson "smaller belt" is only 0.2" shorter. Stock Harrop belt is 117.7", so 117 - 117.5 would be what I would look for.

 

I’d just get the green belt, size is noted in post 1. Everyone says they are tighter in addition to gripping the pulley better. I have one as a spare I keep in my truck for if mine shreds when I’m far from home.

 

Good call as I can't seem to find a belt that's between 117"-117.7" anyway lol.

 

You will not be disappointed even with just stock pulley and fuel as long as you have a custom tune. Midrange torque is night and day.

 

Oh what I was thinking was XXX/XXR18
But I’m tracking with the largest size on a stock rim.

 

Anyone get a P1603 code (engine stall) after modifying fuel basket and with tank at 1/4 full? The truck ran and drove to first shop. But not to second. I was just at shop troubleshooting. Thought it was because I didn't have the air filter in and it was tripping maf but no maf code. Added new air filter and truck sounded better but still stalled few seconds after starting.

Truck was on a slight slope, downward towards front of truck. Plan is to go back tomorrow with some gas to add in. Currently just below the 1/4 line. Gonna add like 10 gallons.

 

@M3Tundra-JK. When I first modded my basket back in 2012 I had major issues. Anything below a 1/4 tank and it would almost stall with hesitation on take off. I replaced the canister and issue resolved.
Currently have ffv canister with W450 model 267 that fits with no mods. Running 60psi at wot.

*Also hopefully pump pickup tube isn't loose.

 

I swear to the car gods if I have to drop the tank for a a 5th time so help me lol

That is reassuring though. I know people say no WOT pulls below 1/2 tank with the modified basket, and the engine is acting more fuel starved than anything. Will report back tomorrow with finding

 

Pedal Commander the product is risky based on a few complaints I've read here. There are a couple of threads here reporting it throwing trucks into limp mode or trigger other issues. PC primarily sells a bluetooth version of their throttle controller that I think is the problem, I think when the BT radio is active it overdraws the circuit triggering limp mode.

When I used PC the truck felt like the transmission was slamming into 1st gear in all settings besides Normal and ECO modes. Even City -4 felt this way. The Banks Pedal Monster engineer claims its the way the throttle curve is set up on the other devices, most advertise a dog leg curve.

Banks also uses the OBD port to provide 12V power, the other devices use 5v from the pedal. If it draws too much from the pedal circuit that is when limp mode is engaged. The only way to remedy this is to pull over, unhook your battery and the Pedal Commander and wait 15minutes to clear the error code.

If you are dead set on a throttle controller look at Banks PM or one of the other brands like Hikeit or Sprint Booster. The BT feature on the PC is unnecessary unless you are trying to hide the device and frequently make setting changes; I found I "set it and forget it" so the option to make remote setting changes was not useful to me. Other brands have features that may be more useful like valet mode, kill switch, speed sensitive settings, etc.

 

Man I feel for ya. Over the years I've dropped the tank 6 times and pulled the longtubes 5. If I have to pull the LT's again I'm going to remove and blockoff the jba air tubes. Have them like the ARH with only cylinder 7 and 8 tubes for aip.
Good luck!

 

OK went back and added 14 gallons. Same issue. I'm wondering if the completely dead battery has to do with it? The dash info area says Refuel, 0 miles available. We put a Jumpstart on it and it starts but still stalls. I plan to get a new battery tomorrow to swap in and try again
First link is start and stall with no pedal. Second vid I revved it but still stalled

https://youtu.be/QmFrIZgDBTo?si=k0lkbWsWmpXI_oR4

https://youtu.be/u_bPfvjoJpQ?si=ZSReXOQH0w4RJLFi

 

These damn rigs a very sensitive to battery voltage. Maybe this is it I wonder

 

After more research I'm thinking ya. P1603 relates to tcm/ecm communications. Sounds like voltage too low to communicate between even with a charger on. Just spent $200 for a new battery to try tomorrow

 

Battery is a good one. Especially if its dead or a bad cell. Air leak, fuel pump, maf...

 

Magnuson TVS2650 arrived this afternoon

 

take me to da choppa!! Yeeeeeehaw!!

 

Cool, seems like Magnuson was able to ship these out quick.

Any first impressions?

 

Haven't gotten around to opening the boxes yet lol

 

Might I inquire as to the wait time?

 

I would've had those boxes open and all the parts laid out on my bed by now...

 

Well it's not really accurately representative of actual wait time moving forward because when I ordered, the kits weren't made and ready to go yet. They only finished housings early last week

 

assuming the pulleys are the same size...and...85mm being "stock" pulley:

selfishly, I'd like to see this 2650 perform damn near exactly as the Harrop....because, well, it is.

maybe we will will also see the slight performance differences in design.

mainly:
one blows up, the other blows down - does it matter?
does post blower IAT sensor affect tuning/performance?


<hat tip to those that are getting the 2650 Mag>

I'll be sitting over here waiting to see the dynos & dragys.

 

iirc it's a 3.4" pulley, so ~86mm, comparable

 

thanks.

interesting.

are you starting with that one...or moving down a few notches?

 

Starting there.

 

Does it have a quick change hub?

 

Let’s hope the IAT sensor is post blower so we can compare temps to the Harrop. Up vs down, etc.

 

Nevermind I see it is a quick change in the pics. I wonder what the process is to change the coupler out on this style? Doesn’t look like a removable snout like the old one but can’t really tell in the pictures.