General Supercharger Thread

Agreed 200% happy! I have the heimholtz, didn't install it.

 

I noticed a difference from running the DD muffler delete then adding carven tr mufflers back in. It picked up .2-.3 lbs of boost. Figured out the Evap issue so replacing a few parts then I’ll schedule the tune session

 

For those of you running 35s and mid 600hp which is a stage 3 blower?. Are your dragy times better or worse than the 2023 F150 Raptor's 3.7 sec 0-60? (Raptor comes with 35s which is why I point that out).

Wife's 392 Wrangler stock setup has 35s and runs a 0-60 in 4.5 sec.

Just curious.

 

what are the '23 Raptor dragy numbers?

 

I edited the post, sorry. 3.7 per the interwebs

 

TFL got 7.5 seconds last year. yes, it was hot.

The Raptor R is probably what you are inquiring about. it is a comparable S/C v-8...albeit >$108k

 

Yeah Raptor R. 3.7 vs. 7.5 ? Good grief even with 600hp our truck is still slow. I was hoping I'd hold a candle to the Jeep at least.

 

392 jeep was no problem to outrun from a roll.

 

We REALLY need a 10sp trans.

my Stock Wheels & susp gets 5.1-ish other folks are getting mid 4's on hotter setups.

but, I don't race it....it is now perfection with on-ramps, towing, etc.

 

TFL is also at elevation in Colorado I think.

 

and....I FINALLY got my AEM boost gauge to work consistently. I had to push the connection in the back HARD.

the cause...when the steering wheel tilts up, when I turn the engine off, is jack-farting with the connection.

life is still good.

 

Best dragy we've seen with a Tundra on 35s is ~4.5ish we just can't post them here.

 

that's Colorado's fault.

 

Are you getting a check engine light?

 

Stages is a retarded term imo, unless some manufacturer specifies it. The only people that are remotely close to 3.7s have built engines, which is Viktor and @Winks4x4Toy (though not sure what Winks time is). @Silver17 and I might be the next closest with verified times on this forum, with my truck doing 4.5s (4.3s subtracting the 1ft roll out, so like what a drag strip time would give). And my truck is on 35s with 5.29s, and still is far flung from 3.7s.

 

What was the evap solution? I cannot get it to report ready (not that it matters.) But I hate things not being right.

 

Mine is gross leak code, found a problem with my filler neck and maybe the canister. I'm going to replace the filler neck first and hoping I don't need a canister but we shall see.

 

Gotcha, I have no codes, just INC on the readiness.

 

Yeah these guys do https://nationalspeedinc.com/packages/toyota/toyota-truck/2007-2021-tundra/tundra-xk50-platform/ and I thought others did but I see your point.

I was just curious how far away 610(ish) hp was from the Raptor R. Seems like I'd be on par with the Jeep, which is fine. Everytime I fire that thing up I think about how I need long tube headers in my truck.

All the Cat codes and work arounds I see in here always bring me back to reality.

 

The Nat Speed stages are just how they name their packages. Like Sniv said each vendor has different meaning to their stages.

The only somewhat consistent thing I've seen is Stage 1 is usually a big pulley w/ or wo/ a tune. Stage 2 is usually a smaller pulley with other supporting upgrades. After that it all goes to shit.

If you use Nat Speed best way to approach it is by looking at HP goals. Their most expensive kit for Harrop runs on E85 (Stage 4 but their website doesn't render properly). If you want more HP than what that offers you will need a built engine. At that point I would probably work with ProSpeed.

 

and if you do a Stage 2 Harrop -but you don't change the stock intake....it's really only a stage 1.5.

ask me how I know.

 

Yes, its been on for months.. cat codes

 

It's down a significant amount compared to before. Won't even spin the tires from a stop now lol

 

Are you sure all of the cat material is out of the exhaust? Could have some blockage? That will definitely make it run worse.

 

Driving 98% street like a maniac has seen my MPGs drop to 7. As a result I have been in 2WD & driving much less exuberantly to see what I can get if I chill out.

In 4WD, I rarely broke the tires loose (Cooper AT3+ 295 70 18s) in 2WD I can barely give it any gas & they chirp.

 

I cut everything open and welded back myself.. it's cleared out. 3" all the way next week.. going to do a compression test also for peace of mind

 

Hmmm, when mine blew out the cats the only difference was it got louder and the cat code was activated. It still ran good, maybe better. It was a while back so I don't remember.

 

I had one off brand metal cat implode and blocked up. The welds for the cells came loose and was plugged in the back. Just seemed off driving with no codes. Luckily it was the front one so now I'm down to one each side.
Dropped the tank and installed the ti450 with the FFV canister. It fit well. The orientation is different and had to make a new 6AN supply line to get another 3 inches. Good flow and psi. Now to install @snivilous hpt tune and do some data logging this afternoon.

 

I heres a side by side of the 450 & FFV pumps, they looked the same to me.

 

I didnt want to cut up the canister. I installed an aermotive 340 on the initial install of the SC in 2015. Drilled a few holes and at clamp area. At a little less than 1/4 it would lose suction. Just didnt want to deal after one engine and transmission replacement. Thanks to @Silver17 for the info. The 267 model fit, only draws 14 amps, and I found a 30 micron pre-filter that needed a little modification to fit, trim plastic foot area. The venturi system is larger than the non ffv canister. We'll see how it holds up.