General Supercharger Thread

Thank you for the thorough explanation!

 

Yea the Prospeed box isn’t ideal. But the blower itself is more efficient so should be ok.

 

then I will retract my last comment & make a grimace face.

 

You should get yourself a Harrop IAT breakout sensor and put it in one of those unused runner ports the Whipple has on it.

 

You have a link for that? Might have get another gauge for that

 

so...if you are getting a 25 degree rise at the MAF sensor...and I know my S/C adds ~30 degrees of temp after the S/C...you are getting a ~60 degree rice into the comb chamber.

does that extra 30 degrees affect anything?...as @snivilous said...it has not affected his rig.

for the record - my pre-S/C rise was only ~10 degree delta. I still use that same stock intake.

so why bother?

 

I’d be curious post maf at the manifold as the whipple should be cooler than the maggy.

 

Thinking of this Prospeed box. I was planning on relocating the washer fluid tank anyway. But I could add that Stillen cold air tube to the front by front grill hmm

 

No you probably have to email Chris from Harrop to try and order one. Not sure you will see it listed for sale anywhere.
Chris.Mentrup@harrop-usa.com

Or maybe SCOL can order you one. Then you can just monitor via OBD2 like everything else.

 

Just to be clear, cooler intake temps is definitely better. Denser air and less potential for knock. But when I tune the truck, there's no special accomodations for how hot the intake is, I tune it so it runs well regardless of the temperature.

 

Does it plug into the obd 2

 

Whatever you’re currently using to read your IAT will read IAT all the same with the breakout sensor harness. The whole idea is the computer reads the intake temp the same way it does from the factory, but now instead of it getting the temp from the MAF it gets it from the separate sensor that is now located post intercooler and is tied into the MAF harness with the wiring harness.

As far as tuning around the IAT I think it was determined we don’t have access to those tables, but if the intake temps are lower it stands to reason the ECM is less likely to detect knock and therefore less likely to retard timing due to the knock. So of course, lower IATs from a more efficient blower and intake system is better for power and longevity. If IATs are 20 degrees cooler, maybe that could be the difference between a blown cylinder ring vs. not in the same high load situation? I don’t know engines like that though to say if that’s plausible. One other benefit of the post intercooler IAT sensor is you will know if there is a IC pump failure, or leak, or something sooner due to the spike in IATs.

 

Just move the stock sensor if there’s an available port post blower. Need a breakout harness and/or an extension.

Edit. What Silver17 said

 

Yep I see it now on the Harrop install instructions. IAT then harness

 

I've got a stillen box and front intake tube to sell! Only thing is I hacked up the main intake tube, which you don't need anyways! I paid $350, will sell for $200! However the stillen box opening is offset a little further back from the s/c opening

 

Shoot me a DM with pics

 

Just an update- the new ECM came in today, Toyota says it's just plug and play, i will install it tonight. Hopefully at worst, I will just need to buy more credits from HP.

 

Shoot, I saw this post on HPT forum and assumed it was you. Read post #12.
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?102284-2015-Toyota-Tundra&p=735799&viewfull=1#post735799

 

I got 2-5 degree difference when moving with the stock box, now getting 0-3 with the TRD accelerator on the SCOL box & the SABM mod. You guys are saying the actual at the sc is 20-30 more? Where do I need a sensor & how do I get it monitored to see what I really have?

 

Nope, we did some testing with a Toyota tech tool and found out the ECM was bricked, it was my fault.

 

Fingers crossed!

 

Where did you source a new ECM?

 

Just need to weld the bung in a we’re good to go

 

How are you at 5 over ambient and Rey is 25 over, when measuring at the same location?

 

Prospeed box is trash lol. But even with the maggy box I was 10-15 of ambient. Not sure how the sequoia is that cool

 

Other then when you’re in boost, the intercooler brick in the blower appears to work like an intake charge warmer. The air coming out of the blower is warmed up quite a bit by the hot intercooler coolant circulated around the hot engine bay. When I'm in boost though it keeps it steady at the 20-30ish above ambient even under sustained pulls and works great. Lowering the temp of the coolant in that circuit is the whole idea of the extra intercoolers, interchiller system, etc.

With a magnuson I think you have to drill and tap a hole for the sensor on one of the runners or the lid or something. I don’t know of another plug and play solution other than the Harrop sensor and harness that comes with the kit. It is then monitored via OBD2 like the factory IAT (MAF) sensor, and then ignores the temp sensor function of the MAF.

 

The Harrop harness bypasses the MAF temperature pins and reroutes them to whatever temp sensor Harrop is using. So instead of the ECU reading 5 pins from the MAF it is reading 3 from the MAF and two from the breakout sensor they are using. It looks plug and play as far as I can tell, the "y" harness cable looks like it is just straight through.

 

That’s what I was guessing but didn’t know the “level” of trash, so to speak.

 

It doesn’t fully seal along the fender wall and where the intake tube enters the box. It is basically made of two pieces of sheet metal with a plexiglass window. The intake tube is probably the best part of the product but if you need the 4.5” intake shop MRP for the tube. They make larger diameters too

 

I'll sell you one brand new. Give me a price. I also would never recommend buying one.