General Supercharger Thread

I was looking at ARH's website and didn't see it. Nice find.. sucks they're also ~8 weeks out.

 

No secondary air? (not that there is anything wrong with that)

lol

 

Well, Prospeed told me ten weeks, ordered them anyway. It's hard to get a lot of stuff right now, long wait times.

 

Camping season is here and it probably wouldn't be a good idea to pull my TT with clogged cats. Think I'm gonna cut the cats open this week and gut them and reweld. I couldn't get the drivers side mid pipe out when I initially attempted to gut them lol

 

NOBODY messes with camping season . That’s one of the draws of the reliable 2nd gen for me, minus the pesky clogged cats…

 

Especially in Oregon where the window is tight lol. I'll run open header to drink crispy boys in the woods

 

I have a set of JBA long tubes with custom mid-pipes, $600 plus shipping and their yours. Here is what they looked like when I boxed them up and put them in storage 2 years ago. These are ceramic coated, so not sure why they have the surface oxidation, in use for about 1.5 years in Houston, so no salt. I would recommend getting them blasted and recoated, and have the flanges flattened on a belt sander for better seal.

 

These may be of interest for folks looking at pushing past 600+ HP:
https://gsportbygesi.com/high-performance-catalytic-converters/g-sport-emissions-systems-products/

 

Those are the cats that came with my stainless works headers. Good to know they are supposed to be capable of higher horsepower. I blew out my stock cats so lets see how well these hold up. Ill have to look up the part number to see which one exactly it is.

 

Damn, why am I being dumber than usual? Am I to use the side port off the TRD Maggy on the DS to tie into for the PSB-1? Or do I use the Innovate supplied Tee on the port under the snout? Also, my IC pump is already using the IGN tapped source, I probably shouldn't add another tap onto that circuit for the gauge, right? And for RPM reference, did you boys use that feature and tap into the negative lead of an injector harness? Wow, I thought I knew this crap until I start on it...



**edit: I will use "1" for the boost reference....

 

Oh this is great news to hear for reasons.... I was not clear what rating the SW headers cats had. Thanks for confirming.

 

There is an IGN fuse inside the truck as well above the drivers side kick panel. I used an add a fuse on that one, but I just used it as the trigger circuit for a relay with direct power from the battery (with a fuse in line as well).

 

Number one is for boost referencing/guage

 

I used #1 for boost, & a fused ign from the contortionist under dash fuse panel. I'd really like to kill the guy that designed that.

 

I completely understand, my hands and forearms look like I've been fighting badgers...why does every piece of metal without paint have to be razor sharp?

 

You can also get a tach signal from the Data link connector. On mine it is pin 9 and is a green wire. Shoot me your year and i can look it up. I used the shift light option on mine and i like it. Its much brighter than you would think.

 

The driver's side rear port is the only boost port available, if you're already using it (like for the fuel pressure regulator) then tee into it, if not then just run the line straight to it. The ports under the intake at the front are all vacuum ports (front vacuum, rear boost) and are used for things like catch cans and the PCVs.

I did not use RPM reference. I forget where I tapped power from, but since it's powering a relay it doesn't really matter if you tee into the IC pump or not. For the dimming feature I tee'd into the cigarette lighter as I recall...

 

Thank you all...It's a 2014 Limited...only 200k miles less than @snivilous 's...

 

Tach signal is still pin 9 but will be a brown wire for you.

 

Heres a picture of dlc connector layout for reference.

 

Hmm, more stuff for my list. That might be cool.

 

Thank you @ssmokedz ! That's an easy option...I'm tapped into the brown wire now!

Okay, last bit of Hodar-inspired needing of help: The Relay diagram, for those using it, shows 87 going to the red wire on the PSB gauge...however, the pins 86 & 85 are pig-tailed together in the x2 pin connector...

I plan on using the red wire from the gauge itself to tie into the IGN under the dash...doing this would make the 87 pin on the relay obsolete, right? I assumed the 85 pin would need to go to the battery ground but that's not the case on my pre-wired relay...sheesh, thank you for your grace on this...what should I do with the 87 pin on the relay if I'm intending to use the red wire (off the back of gauge) as my trigger wire?

Was my relay mis-wired if my 85 & 86 pins are the 2-pin connector that ties into the gauge itself seen above? I'm Ron Burgundy?

 

Welp, I got it installed...not the relay persey, as I still need confirm the wiring on that bugger...getting the three harness wires thru the firewall is such a b&#:h! Haha nothing Dawn dish soap couldn't solve. I don't have the bung installed or wideband yet but everything is routed and ready...here she is...I think I hit nearly 7psi somehow...most of the time it's like 3.8-4.2psi...

https://m.youtube.com/shorts/O2HdUR031yw

 

According to the interwebs, the critical/melting point of most cats is around 1600 degrees. I got a Scangauge3 installed today and was monitoring the temps. Bank 1 (drivers side) seems to run hotter than bank 2 by a couple hundred degrees most of the time. I noticed under pretty brief WOT pulls it would shoot over 1400 degrees pretty quick. It otherwise hangs out in the 1100-1200 range when the truck is up to temp. No doubt on a 1/4 mile it would hit the 1600 mark in a hurry.

Not sure how accurate the temps are that read read via OBD2, is the O2 sensor actually able to transmit temp? Either way, I set an alarm on the SG to beep if the cat temp on the drivers side exceeds 1550 degrees. Will be interesting to monitor that metric towing the TT this summer.

 

My understanding is no, the cat temp is a predicted value. You can actually change those values in the COTS table in HPT. As I recall rpm and airmass create a predicted cat value, and that triggers certain enrichment events if you have it turned on. There is not however an actual temperature being measured.

 

If it is predicted, it’s more sophisticated logic than I’d have guessed. I only say that because even after a WOT pull for 10 seconds or so the cat temp continues to climb a little even after I’ve let off the gas. It then takes at least a good 60 seconds or so of being easy on the throttle for the temp to drop back down to normal operating temps. It would
be interesting for it to try and calculate the cat temp in real time base on anything other than the air and fuel going into the engine at each given second and providing an immediate calculation. Does that make sense?

Edit: Not saying I don’t believe that it’s calculated, just saying it’s interesting they have even programmed in logic for figuring on the cat “cooldown” after a high load pull.

 

I'm not sure about the 2-pin connection, but the relay only needs to have the red power wire connected to it.

Battery power to Pin 30
Ignition tap to Pin 86
Innovate Gauge Red Power wire to Pin 87
Ground to Pin 85

Also need to ground the Gauge, I would recommend you use same ground as the relay.

 

I saw this listed for sale, and I’ve never seen that style before. Does anyone know what the deal is with this? I’m wondering what size MAF tube it has, but I’ve never seen that style filter before or what looks like an extended height lid.

 

That's the TRD Cold Air Intake they sell...I believe it still sports the 4" tube and MAF...

 

Xact won't send a remote tune. I'm going back Monday. What should I do before I go? Also, it occurred to me to check the alcohol % & it's oddly 55-70% changing by throttle position in my last read, which seems odd. I reset the fuel density learning & I'll see if that makes any changes. Any idea why it keeps thinking there is alcohol?