General Supercharger Thread

That’s what I’ve been saying like the 03-04 cobras. We ran upper 100mm on bracket. Or 90mm etc look up pics of billet flow. They also made better quality idlers.

Also, @snivilous fish bought my blower lol

 

What helped me was Sniv's advice of putting the green belt on the modular pulley first, then installing the pulley with the belt around it onto the hub. I wasn't able to get the green belt on until doing that.

 

Oh, and these came in today! Save them for the LX :-D

 

What sizes?

 

2.2 and 2.0

 

Also one of those beefed up pulley puller/installer tools for those without a press

I think we'll have endless ideas for you lol

 

Woot! Poor UPS lady.

 

I have seen four ways now to determine the HP at the crank including this one that I found this morning. Two of the ways say that 500 to the max of 505 HP at the rear wheels would be at 599 at the crank. To me that would be pushing it way to close to the limit. Even the 500 according to this one would be too close for comfort.
I put this up as an FYI being that the SuperCharger is gaining popularity. I would hate to see anyone with engine problems.
https://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator4.php

one of the ways showed that 505 at the rear was 580 something at the crank, and that seemed to have a decent buffer zone. There is no exact science from what I read because there are to many different setups??

 

I’ve heard that these handle 630-650 crank. With the concerned failure being piston rings. To me the amount of times I’m in really hard pulls is not very often but maybe in an on ramp or two

 

Not too worried until closer to 600whp. Most of us are thinking if we blow it up then…..oh darrrrnnn, guess I’ll have to build the engine and go for 700hp. Lol

 

awesome

remind me- you have smaller pulley and larger intake, yes?

I like seeing what could happen if i change the one variable that is holding me back. My intake size

great results. I’m jelly.

I also like how long this thread has been going and not of y’all crazy sum bitches have grenaded a motor

Hat tip you all

 

my state of mind is- if I keep afr in the 10’s the ring gap gods will looks favorably upon my steed

 

Yours would probably put down the same numbers on the Xact hub dyno from what I’ve seen.

 

Yes, 2.3 and SCOL airbox with SABM and aFe dry filter.

 

What’s odd is that I spoke with Chris at Harrop on the phone a couple days ago to ask about fuel pressure and extended crank issues. While he owns a Harrop stage 1 Sequoia, he has no idea how much pressure their modded regulator produces. Also had stated some tuners have been going back to the stock fuel regulator.

Another grain of salt to add on the pile.

 

I’m on 650s and have updated my info on the google doc.

 

This is what Matt Smith had quoted the various Pressures as being. He has tried about every fueling setup you can imagine on his many installations so I think he actually has taken these pressure readings himself. I was considering messaging him and see if he has more details.

 

I forgot about this part, it kept downshifting and doing this.


Which made it get to this amount of TQ. This was before the tune as you can see by the low HP.

 

Looks like ProSpeed wants the FPR set to 60psi and hooked up to a boost point, under WOT I would be at 71psi.

 

I believe the consensus on this is if the injectors were spraying into atmospheric pressure it would be 71psi. Since they’re injecting into the combustion chamber that is pressurized to 11psi, the boost reference basically just offsets that and keeps it around 60psi where it is set at full boost. If not boost referenced it would effectively drop the pressure from 60 to 49 under full boost otherwise.

 

Chris Mentrup? I'm pretty sure they guy I spoke to said 60, or implied the ProSpeed suggested 60psi was what they recommended...it's been almost 3 years, so I could very well be mistaken. Use what your tuner recommends Stock pressure should be fine with suitable injectors and boost reference, I'm pretty sure the FPR mod was to get more out of equipped injectors without needing to upgrade.

 

Another thing to keep in mind, is increasing the fuel pressure reduces the pump flow.

 

Yes I believe so. I’ve only talked to Ryan Dinkel before and Chris this 1 time.

And yes, the modded FPR was to keep stock injectors with no added tuning.

 

Tim @ Xact said the 44lbs it was set to was perfect. I was ready to adjust it, I brought my 14mm wrench & the right allen.

 

Depends on who you go by for "safe". Unfortunately you wont find a straight forward answer.

The Magnuson claims 550 at the crank is safe for an unmodded engine. Harrop's Stage 2 put you at 600 crank. Whipple #s also point to 600 crank.

Yes all the builds are using different dynos and no one except Toyota, that I am aware of, has used an engine dyno.

17 to 18% sounds about right for calculated drive train losses. If you look at what Toyota states the engine can do compared to what the baseline wheel dyno runs have been that seems to be fairly close.

I think somewhere on a blog Prospeed was stating they were having issues at around 5+ WOT runs. This is all I could find discussing failure points.

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In our quest to make more power in the 3UR, we ran into issues with the ever so common broken piston failure, even after finding ways to band aid the issue, we would still have failures. This all stems from the factory pistons having too tight of ring gap matched with pistons designed for NA with weak ring lands, past that failure point, the next weak link is the factory rods.

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And almost free for you at only $24,999!!!

 

Before or after the core?

Lol

 

Did you do your pulls in 4th gear? Made some epic numbers!! I was scheduled to hit the rollers last week until my cats decided to self destruct.

 

Build your own here and dream. https://xatracing.com/XAT-Built-3UR-Short-Block.html?category_id=6531

 

No idea, he said it was downshifting to 2nd. Sorry about your cats.