General Supercharger Thread

Yep! Not many things it could be and it was def on the list to check.

 

A friendly suggestion, use the vent to the right of the steering wheel...or the vent upper lefthand side of headunit...less glare, easier viewing, etc. Same install, just a couple more clips to pull out below...I may end up moving mine but for now, I'm okay with where it's at...

 

Thanks for the tip. I assume you're just drilling a hole through the ducting then to feed the wiring?

 

yes, mostly, I just sliced a cross in the ducting to squeeze the wiring through...I wish I had a photo of it...but yes, easy once you see it...er...try this:

 

I will now bask in the glow of lucky guess.

 

Newly S/C’d (Maggy) here. I’ve followed this chat/thread for a while now. My question relates to tuning. What gains are you guys seeing with dyno/remote compared to the canned Magnuson tune? I do not plan to change anything yet from the Mag kit (pulley/injectors/fuel pump). Basically trying to figure out whether or not tuning would yield that much more HP/TQ? I know the Mag canned tune is modest/conservative at best. First post so not even sure I’m doing this correctly!

 

I used the original Mag tune for almost 30K miles before getting a remote tune done. I can't really say I gained more hp/tq with the remote tune since I didn't do any before/after dyno runs. What I can say is that the Mag tune produced a good amount of engine knock that was eliminated by doing a good remote tune. That alone is worth getting a better tune in my opinion.

Not sure if you came across the other threads, but below is my Mag tune knock feedback graph and underneath that is my remote tune. You can see the canned Mag tune leaves a lot to be desired. I don't have as much knowledge as others on here, but go get yourself a custom tune to ensure your truck is running as it should. If you have any hp/tq gains that will be the cherry on top.

 

I didn’t Dyno mine for this rig but historically from many supercharged vehicles I’ve had and installed gains from 20-40hp. Plus the tune is dialed in for your rig much better.

 

Seems like reason enough to tune. I have found it extremely difficult to locate a shop with experience on tundras willing to tune.

 

Did you remote tune or stay with canned?

 

Where are you located? If there is nothing local to you there are a few options for remote tuning as well.

 

Myself and a few others have used overland tailor tuning. My truck is actually the file used as a base for the maggy tunes.


https://overlandtailor.com/

 

Remote for this vehicle.

 

South Carolina (Charleston area)

 

The National Speed folks are in Wilmington, NC but that is a over 3+ hours for Charleston.

The remote OTT option would probably work out for you if you have the stock 3.5" intake. They are willing to work directly with you or via an affiliate.

 

Whipple update. Bypass valve fixed and the trucks back! He took to for a rip and said it feels much quicker in the mid range than the maggy and lights it up even easier.

I’m having him throw the maggy box in and get the tune double checked. Then smaller pulley and bigger injectors. The pump included in the kit a 650 so that may need to be changed also but we'll cross that road when we get there.

 

Easily 20-40 with any of the custom tuners. OTT has posted a lot of dyno charts over on tacomaworld of Tundras and proves how inadequate the canned stock and maggy tunes are.

 

is stock pulley ~6psi?

 

Yea I believe it is. He’s hooking up a boost gauge and we’ll see how it does.

 

y'all need to come up with a way to swap the Harrop for the Whipple by merely changing the S/C unit...leaving the intercooler base.

I mean, how hard could it be? <kidding>



and I'm not getting better mileage. it's damn near exact as before the Peitz tune.


the SG3 is still darn accurate - usually only a 1/10 of a gallon off. avg is still 17-ish

amazing for a S/C truck>>>I can cruise from Houston to Conroe and get 19mpg. 62mph

 

Sounds like someone who just spent 6 grand. Just kidding of course. Glad you guys figured it out and it’s ripping now. The pump and injectors with the Whipple kit are the same as mine and should be good for 600whp at a max of 85% duty cycle. Stepping down to the Whipple 3.375” pulley from the 3.625” should be a touch more air than the Harrop running an 80mm, and the Maggie running a 2.3”. It’s about the same as a maggie on a 2.2”.

 

What’s the stock TB diameter? 3”?

 

Looks like 76mm (~3"), and a RCF is 88mm (~3.5"):

https://www.tundras.com/threads/larger-throttle-body.74576/#post-1906724

 

On the subject of intakes, where do I need to drill the vacuum hose hole? & is the arrow air flow into the TB?

 

Yup arrow in the direction of flow. The vacuum hose has to go in after the MAF sensor. If you don’t have the real estate on that intake tube maybe you can make a good connection into the silicone tube somehow (like drill a hole smaller than the fitting and force it in). Not sure if that would work but that’s the principle of how it connects to the Harrop tube.

 

Based on what I see on my current tube, it looks like it needs to be a bit under the maf on the TB side.

 

I’m seeing on the maggy setup all vacuum is post maf so I would keep it that way.

 

+1 This.

I remember seeing adapters for silicone hoses if you can't find real estate on the tube. What I originally did was used a second coupler pipe to host the fitting but I don't recommend doing that. You are better off with one piece for your intake.