General Supercharger Thread

Ok tip for anyone with the Magnuson. After trying a few different things to get the bolts started in the recessed areas, enough to torque em down with something that'll fit, realized a long flathead would work just fine.

I did have to remove the PS fuel rails, impossible to get to them otherwise

 

Does anyone know what the thread pitch is on this stud? I'm missing it. (do I really need it)?


These are 1mm pitch.

$10 Niooliuk Pack of 20 M6 x 30 mm Length 304 Stainless Steel Fully Threaded Rod Bar Studs Silver Tone

https://www.amazon.com/Niooliuk-Len...843424&sprefix=m6+x+30+mm+stud,aps,268&sr=8-3

 

I think that's to hold the long water pipes that go down to the oil cooler next to the oil filter if your truck is so equipped. Not all have that. If yours does, you probably had to loosen the A/C compressor to remove the originals. If you didn't need to do that, I don't think that you'll need to worry about it.

 

I took that from the instructions I downloaded, don't know if I have that. I'll look but in case I need it what's the thread pitch?

 

I'd look at your truck to see if you have the coolant pipes first. If you do, you'll have to remove them and the bolt that's currently there, then you could use that bolt at the hardware store to compare to their thread gauge. That's the best I got.

 

What size belts are people using with the smaller Griptec pulley on the Maggy? I got the 113" gates belt, but impossible to get it on.

 

112.4" listed on the first page of the thread. It's a bitch, you need to pry it over with a screwdriver. Make sure the tensioner is fully cranked too. It's not easy, especially with a new belt.

 

Ah, screwdriver, not finger lol. Which pulley is best to try and slip the belt over?

Also, forgot the front page had info now! I was trying to use the search function

 

The supercharger pulley is what I always did.

And actually since you have the Griptec, you might be better off pulling the pulley and put the belt on and then it might just slide back onto the shaft. That's how my pulley is designed and works brilliantly. I'd think the Griptec would function the same even if the hub isn't chamfered.

 

Heh.

 

Here's what I can see. Looks like there are coolant lines.




Also, the vacuum fitting came tiny item, medium box.

 

Yes they are. I don't know if it says in your set of instructions, but mine said that you'll need to loosen the A/C compressor through the wheel well to slide if forward to replace those lines. You won't need to disconnect anything else A/C related, just have to make some room between it and the block.

 

Yup, move the compressor is there. Guess I'll bet the 10 bucks and get those studs.

Thanks

 

That was exactly it, thanks! Had to take the pulley off the hub and then it slipped right on. Only Griptec doesn't have any keyways like yours does, and now I gotta blindly line up the screw holes

 

Or the idler usually is the one to slip it on last.

 

I'm using this one, seems like they all slip some.

 

I love this "the making if an awesome truck" series! Nice work @M3Tundra-JK!!

 

Thanks! Can't wait to take it to some car meets

So I'm doing the throttle body and wondering if the Harrop gang with the bad throttle body extensions could do this instead? Maggy instructions have you separate the wire loom so that it can reach the new TB connector position

 

That's what I did to remedy mine.

 

I don't even remember doing that. I thought you flipped the throttle body 180 degrees and that was it

 

Is that ok? Seems like there’d be a gravity issue.

 

What do you think can't handle gravity being oriented the opposite direction?

Anyways it's what the instructions said, not like I came up with that on my own

 

Oh jk, I guess I did peel the wires out to go to the throttle body. I thought just flipping it prevented that but I guess not.

 

Mine is oriented that way with the connector towards the rear. Running the RCF TB if that matters.

 

No idea, seems like there’d be a top and bottom. I have had TBs off other motors, not these what do I know? If you say it’s good I’m a believer!

 

I have the RCF throttle body and it would only go on one way, I removed the SAIS pumps so I had enough slack to reach comfortably.

 

Unless it's carbureted I don't know why any throttle body would care about the orientation. The actuator motor and airflow certainly don't care, and any springs or throttle cables don't care. One of the last steps in the instructions is to flip the throttle body so the plug is oriented towards the rear of the engine for the new TB coolant hoses.

 

There's a set of instructions from Toyota for 2007-13, and a slightly different set for 2014+

Ok nevermind I see your update that you also did it lol

 

Thanks for sharing, I wasn’t aware of this difference between the magnuson and Harrop in regards to the TB wiring. Seems like Harrop tried to make it easier with a harness but only introduced a failure point. May have to do this to be proactive instead of having an issue roadside.

 

I just reused the oem tb harness with zip ties to avoid any potential issue. Theres minimal tension on the wiring after a little reroute.