General Supercharger Thread

all right, all right, all right...

bringing the bitch in to get AFR & Boost gauges installed & re-dyno'd.

getting a schedule today.

HPTuners will be used if they see any issues to fix.

yes, graphs will be provided.

 

Any install guides out there for these two? I need to do mine. And I'm a lost without instructions kinda guy.

 

we are simpatico

hence, why I'm having it done.

I know me.

 

Trying to recall how I did mine. I believe I ran a hot wire on a 10amp fuse from the battery + terminal to through the normally open contacts of a small relay and hooked the load side of the relay to the power wire for the gauges. This provides the power to energize the gauges and the wideband O2 sensor heater. I then used a fuse tap on the ignition fuse inside the fuse panel below the steering wheel that was hooked to the coil contacts of the relay. When the ignition is turned ON, this energizes the relay and powers the gauges.

Other than the wiring, it’s just welding in the O2 sensor bung and installing the sensor, and then teeing in the boost gauge transducer at the boost port of the blower.

Edit: I drew a terrible picture how I recall wiring it. Is even a bad picture worth a thousand words? If there’s more than one gauge they just get wired in parallel.

 

Oh.. Well, guess I got lucky then.. For once in my life.

 

Ya, I stuck with VFT for quite a while hoping that it would get sorted so that it'd work on my truck. The aforementioned workaround functioned, but there were fueling glitches that just couldn't seem to get resolved, so I hit up Viktor. Now I have proper fueling and I'm eyeing what @snivilous is doing with his transmission tuning. I haven't actually made any changes to what Viktor has done though. I've just been crushed at work and don't normally drive much during the winter, but I'll get around to it.

 

Thank you for the info.

 

I'd hardly call anything I've done transmission tuning. I just have the torque converter setup to engage instantly in 4-6 and use Viktors line pressure and torque reduction tweaks. Nothing fancy really. Like I said, it does what I want and I don't see a need for direct shift or gear lock, since it tends to feel that way already between the gears and blower.

 

I'd love gl and ds but only in s. But I say that bc right now at my elevation (still na) I think I'd prefer to be able to lug a lower rpm up a hill instead of finely tuning my throttle input to JUST shy of the truck downshifting.... I imagine more torque from the SC may actually remedy that a bit and perhaps less throttle angle would produce more power negating the need for downshift, but that's all speculation at this point.

 

Yea that's how mine drives, it needs to be a pretty nasty hill for it to downshift to 5th, it adds in a few psi of boost and makes enough power before it hits the shift point usually.

 

Hopefully that fucking pulley you bought shows up soon, because running the 2.3 pulley right now feels so fucking slow

 

At least your shits moving

 

I'd love that.. I'm more pissed bc I'm already in 5th and the downshift to 4th is what I'm avoiding... I'm working on the boss. Then I'll bug about the tips when I install and tune. Hell, even if I deal with my rotten tranny tuning but with a blower I'll be happy!

 

I know how you feel. The stock transmission setup was one of a handful of things I hated about the truck almost to the point of selling it. The supercharger actually made cruise control work right and 6th be viable and not constantly searching. Granted I think tuning can fix that, but from day 1 of the supercharger the transmission behaviour was 100% better.

 

Dap tune fixed the hunting and hanging bs with my 08 and 21 while na. I'd highly recommend a tune to anyone just because of that. Better throttle response and noticeably more power.

 

I did just hear back from Mat at VF that the GL/DS patch will for sure come to 2007-17 Tundra, although he gave no indication on the timeline for it. I'll keep you guys updated though.

 

I'm still on Viktor's tune, only making adjustments to lower LTFTs based on your post some time back. In that same post, I noticed that your transmission table had different values than mine though. I don't know what the reason is for that, but it got me to thinking that I could tweak mine a little to see how that changes things to give me a better understanding and possibly make it more suitable to my driving style. I have this one hill that I hit frequently where it lugs just a bit too much for my comfort.

 

parasitic loss of centrifugal S/C.

good stuff.

he lays out stuff, so even I can understand it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXCRyils0D8&ab_channel=SteveMorrisEngines

 

Referenced back through thread and saw Harrop guys were having issues with 3k rpm cutout. Now we're experiencing that.. it'll cutout and get right back into it. Seems too quick to be a fuel issue.

We tried removing the maf and tb harness extension as noted in this thread and neither fixed it.

Edit: It doesn't cutout while ~1/2 throttle. Only WOT

 

Have you caught it on data logs? I could never make it do it repeatedly. It was a once in a blue moon thing, and I haven’t experienced it in a while.

 

Installing external pressure gauge now and then will data log and send to PS. It's doing it every time for us.. feels like the traction control kicking in but its fully disabled with "trac off" on the dash.

Wanted to touch base on the Ti 450 pump. Website says this pump wants a 25a circuit while I believe Tundra's have a 15a circuit. We used PS's splice kit and followed their directions and they haven't mentioned anything about it.

 

Where did you see that? I only see the 14.1 amp rating

https://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-...universal-e85-ethanol-ti-automotive.html.html

 

I read it here -

https://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/w-f90000267.htm

 

The higher the fuel pressure the higher the amp draw will be. 14.1 amps is only at 40psi. The base pressure for tundras is 43.5, if boost referenced it may exceed 50. Prospeed wants the regulator at 60psi I believe? It’s easily drawing over 15 amps.

 

Harrop wants it at 60psi, and this increases power consumption to around 15 amps according to the chart on the page below, which is why I ran a dedicated 25 amp circuit for mine.

https://aftermarket.tiautomotive.com/projects/f90000274-walbro-450/

 

Second question, and may be dumb, but if nothing else is drawing from that line, can you just drop in a larger fuse?

 

No, I wouldn't trust the stock wiring to handle 15 amps continuous, let alone any higher.

 

I guess this is the info I was looking for. Tomorrow morning we're going to drive it around and watch the gauge. PS hasn't said anything about running a dedicated circuit for this setup.

 

Welp...guess I'll find out in the next week or two if I have a similar issue

 

Truck revs fine, truck goes through the rpm range fine at ~half throttle. Under WOT conditions it's hitting a brick wall/breaking up at exactly 3k rpm.