General Supercharger Thread

The other Magnuson log was likely mine before Viktor's tune. It was posted a while back (last December I think). I ran with the Magnuson base tune for ~20K miles and also hope I didn't do any damage. I could actually hear what I thought was pinging under certain conditions (low rpm, then applying moderate throttle) which is what led me to getting a custom tune. I had always wanted to have a custom tune done for it, but other mods always seemed to take priority. Once I saw the before/after data logs it really hit home on how bad the base tune was.

I'm still just running the Maggy as-is aside from Viktor's tune, stock pulley, the green injectors, and the flex fuel pump. I'm still tempted every day to follow you guys down the rabbit hole of more HP, but I'd need new injectors, pulley, and fuel pump along with a retune and not sure I can justify all that unless someone can talk me into it.

 

That makes me feel a little better about not getting the tune. To date, I’ve never heard any signs of pinging or knock. I’m on stock exhaust so I should really hear it if it was audible.
A tune was also in my plans but it took a whole damn year to buy the parts and make time to install them. Also truck was in body shop for 3 months.

And you’ve done a good job not buying the parts thus far while still being active on the forum. That’s almost an impossible feat!

 

I got a new MAF. No codes yet

it was dirty.

 

Not sure if this will help you with your lean-ness, but surely this is lurking in someone's dark thoughts. thought this was brought up yesterday and maybe dismissed, but this is 8 grooves, and says fdfi, so maybe this is for you (yes you)

 

There's the party pulley!

 

Cleaned mine when I swapped out the oiled K&N and PS Intake. No codes for months.

Possible my air is very straight now and less festive and flamboyantly dressed.

 

Thinking out loud. If we know the needs for a given target HP, any way to calculate FPM? CFM is FPM x Area according to the Google Oracle.

Probably not so simple.

 

450 pump here with maggy green injectors.

 

Lol, straight air you say? Did you install an air straightener and not tune it with it installed by chance?

Using my numbers for the calculation of an 80mm pulley and a 3.875” intake it would be 13,285 ft/min. What does the ft/min do for us?

 

Hmm, looking back at prices I'd probably have bought the ProSpeed fuel rail/line kit and 450lph fuel pump kit. I'll come out about $200 ahead, buying everything separately including the XAT fuel rail. But I'm also having to cut and do the lines myself where it looks like theirs is premade. At least this way I have some customizations I can do. And using their instructions as a secondary guide.

I would not buy their injectors. Get the Five-O's

 

RE: Codes. Needing a retune is a possibility I considered.

The straightener has been installed for a while since I put the Stillen in, but yes it was all put in after the original "Stage 2+" tune. Unless it is "choking" the intake I would think it would probably read lean, not rich, if the MAF is reading more air than actually delivered, no?

Another possibility is the ID diamater of the MPR is significantly smaller than the ID of the PS intake. I'll have to measure the thickness of the 4inch OD tube I have from MPR to see the difference. From what I recall it was less than 1/32 difference, but it may be even smaller.

I'll keep it simple for starters and replace the MAF since the oil filter was causing me to throw codes originally. Cleaning the MAF worked for about a year. Might be due for a new sensor.

RE: CFM. The article you linked earlier is giving a general rule of thumb to calculate HP needs in terms of CFM. 1.5 CFM per 1 HP. 1000 HP requires 1500 CFM. If we know target HP needs for CFM we can figure out TB size. How? If CFM = FPM * Area we can calculate Area (for the TB) if we know FPM. Can we calculate FPM somehow? That is what I am asking.

 

I was using this calculator which you can calculate LFM (Linear Feet Per Minute) from CFM if that’s what you mean. Im not sure where that comes into to play but you can mess around with it and see if you can calculate what you’re after. We already know the stock throttle body is 76mm so the area is probably slightly less than 7 square inches. The 82mm RCF TB should be slightly less than 8.18 square inches. https://blackhawksupply.com/pages/airflow-calculator

 

Pump's out.. They're going to replace this plastic crap with fuel rated rubber hose and see what that gets us.

 

Nice, those "hoses" remind me of big gulp straws that sound like elk bugles when you blow thru them! Ahhh, memory lane...actual rubber hose will be better...glad they're acknowledging your despair!

 

@V10Ace is the kean condition something that is constant? I had a few things go awry with an aeromotive 340 in my M5.
In the end I had two problems:
1 the pump would completely die for about 25 min, I was able to correlate this to volum if fuel in tank, only happened on half tank or less, and after running for a good while, so pump was overheating. 3 pumps all did this, and the were all purchased from jegs. I don't know if it was a bad batch, Chinese knockoff, or what, but OEM pump was reinstalled with no issues since (many many miles).
2 the check valves were faulty on 2 of the three pumps after a while.. So I'd crank like a carb car, where that was never the case with good fuel pump. I could blow backwards through the outlet when they were pulled. As before this was not an issue when Bosch pump reinstalled.

So.... Do you notice symptoms worse when lower fuel, out of curiosity? I really don't see how that plastic tube would make you run lean unless it is supplying to your system and perhaps leaking or a restrictive ID hose. Not saying they're wrong, just seems the more likely culprit would be pump related without other obvious flaws, and that is considering they've checked fuel pressure during load (ie the tune is proper and fuel supply is deficient). Only saying what I would ask if my truck.
Anyhow, I'll shut up and let the pros do their thing.

 

12 minutes and 45 seconds later and we are back to a 2.30" pulley! I'll run this for the next two weeks since I'm driving to LA this weekend and then back near Barstow with a trailer for an off-road event next week.

 

OK, who was holding the stopwatch? Lol
Looks good.. Enjoy your trip!

 

We haven't driven the truck much as we're trying to establish an initial tune under normal driving and now WOT. They suspect when the pump ramps up and needs to deliver more fuel that there's a leak happening and causing blow by. Tank is half full

Regulator is at 60psi per Prospeed. We are unable to see what happens to the gauge under load as we aren't on a dyno. We tried a go pro under the hood and driving around but can't see the gauge

 

Which pump did they replace it with? Curious if that's the original white hose or not also. You have to make a cut with a razor blade to get the old one off, and there's a special tool to use to get those types of hoses on without the hose clamp. Also didn't see any splices in the blue/grey wires

 

Walbro 450. PS sent us a connector splice kit with it.. waiting to hear back more at this point.

 

That is actually PTFE tubing, it's preferred over fuel-safe rubber for in tank plumbing as it's ethanol safe. Your connection looks good, see a little bulge from the barb fitting under the clamp, shouldn't be leaking past that.

I actually tested mine, I put the assembly in a 5 gal bucket of gas and pumped it through my regulator and back into the bucket, cranked it up to 80PSI with no leaks from fittings. I had two 2x4s across the top of the bucket with the assembly hanging between it, zip tied down for safety of course, and return going back through the top as it would have in the truck

Here's mine:

 

Ah nice. I ordered my 450 pump through Figs Engineering in Denver, who goes through ProSpeed. But all I got was a pump and no install kit...

 

Being as I'm not the one doing the actual work, is there only one way the pump drops in? Troubleshooting different reasons why we aren't getting enough fuel... there's no leaks outside the tank that we can find.

 

The 450 replaced the plastic assembly that the old pump houses, it basically just sits in the bottom of the basket, here is a shot of my pumps, the white cover to the right would snap over it and the lines go through the cover:

 

The shop I'm going through knows what they're doing and and is reputable in the area for Toyota builds. I'm the guinea pig with the PS stuff for them, however. It looks to me like a hard to F up kinda thing lol

 

Yeah, it's not rocket surgery Two wires and one high-pressure hose connection...did they receive instructions to add holes to the basket? So the pump could draw more in? The stock hole is limiting.

 

They can remove that tiny black hose with the tiny grey connector at the top. It doesn't do anything anymore. It also connects down to a blue thingie that slips over the bottom fuel inlet. Doubt it makes any difference, really, but it's unnecessary after removing the factory pump housing

 

Tossing your questions at them. Thank you guys!

 

Exactly. This is why I'd push for the loaded fuel pressure readings to confirm pump is viable... Dyno, sure, right there on the asphalt can even tap into your underhood and extend temporarily to the front window or any other good place to view when loading it.

 

Here's mine, and picks of the tiny line to remove

I'm trying to finish up the tank stuff today and get it reinstalled tomorrow