General Supercharger Thread

With grill mocked up

 

Lose the grill, it's hiding the business!

 

I ordered a 12x12 inch section of the MAF screen. I went with the thinner option which I hope is good. If the timing works out I may cut one for my 3.5” intake before switching to the Maggie box just to see if it cleans up my AFR gauge reading out of curiosity. I’ll probably have a bunch left after using it for 2 intakes if anyone else wants some, I think it can be sent in a USPS cardboard envelope. It seemed more cost effective to buy a whole sheet, with shipping it was $40.

 

HA, they're HATING you on Reddit! Didn't make the connection it was you from here.

 

"bUt ThE pAiNt WiLl ImPaCt CoLlInG!1! dUrR!1eleventy!"
= the typical redditor

 

Oh you should go through my history and see how I pissed off the /r/jeep forum lol

 

Bought it from a salvage auction and built it all up myself. Only work I didn't do was the welding. Coilover long arm conversion.

https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/p...t-salvage-auction-officially-rebuilt.4460077/

 

Even jeep guys know jeeps suck

 

Which leaves me in disbelief that more manufactures haven't jumped into that market. I see the new Bronco is very jeep-like.

 

That would be the ultimate (non-biased) before and after test. Just saying.

 

remind me....what side do you put the wideband exhaust bung on? driver or pass?

I remember there being an ideal side.

 

and then...

on the boost gauge: did you have to "T" off the boost connection on the Harrop? as I see there is presently a connection on mine. Fuel ref?

getting my sh1t together.

 

Passenger side theoretically runs leaner. I have mine next to the stock sensor which as I recall seemed easier at the time than the driver's side anyways.

Yea just T into it if it's already going to the FPR.

 

@snivilous what coupler you running? I think mines due for one soon.

 

@reywcms

https://superchargersonline.com/product/toyota-trd-magnuson-tunder-coupler-replacement-kit-updated/

 

yea that’s what I was thinking.

 

You cannot order TRX without packages anymore, 2021 was last year you could order a "base" TRX, that also means prices have gone up by a lot.

Another issue is width, TRX is nearly 10 inches wider, has worse turning circle, it's pretty much a no go for lot of drive throughs and city is pretty much a no go, you will stick out a solid foot when park on the streets, and it's nearly impossible to get past 12mpg , towing is pretty much constantly single digit.

It also rides stiffer than most think, even in normal mode, compare to even a basic fox 2.5 kit, the fox rides like a Cadillac in comparison,.

I was seriously ready to order a base model in 2021, it's a wicked truck, but at the end I couldn't pull the trigger, I've had a 2019 rebel, had no issue with it, but I like the Tundra more, someone mention TRX maybe cheaper, TRX puts down mid to high 500 on dyno, some here puts down nearly the same and Im sure it's cheaper to build the engine, a fully built 3ur is about 15k ( no supercharger) and it should have same power as TRX, and probably run same in 1/4 mile.

Fyi, I tow a lot in summer, 11mpg is pretty much what I get, I'd like more power and that's in the works.

 

What’s wrong with wide widths lol

 

Hopefully none of you bought that overpriced block. Here is my summary of couplers:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-121#post-2945473

TLDR, that above coupler is $150 and essentially identical to $10/$20 couplers.

 

So the green one is the new hotness?

 

Driving in city = painnnnnn

But looks damn good thou.

 

I prefer a lot of things about the Tundra too, but when I look at the power upgrade options it becomes more difficult to justify. I’m figuring $20-25k for a supercharger and built transmission, maybe a few grand more for tuning and other pieces to be getting in the ballpark power-wise. That’s about half of what it would cost me to get into a TRX after trading in my truck (I have one being offered to me at 10k under MSRP) but it comes with the expectation that everything will work out of the box (as much as you can expect with a Ram).

 

If it makes financial sense, sure, 25k seems high to be honest, that's about how much I spent with everything so far, regear, suspension, headers, sc kit, valve body etc.

I recall one member got quote of 35k from prospeed incld built block and harrops, and was told it'll smoke TRX on the 1/4.

Either way is fun, TRX has launch control which is really cool, and it is a very nice vehicle to be in, interior wise ram is the best in the biz.

 

Idk how hot it is, but it's what I put in 5k ago after the black one started making noise after a few years. Hopefully it's the hotness

 

Lol

 

Tundra scoots with ~500 WHP ballpark which is a Stage 2/2+ Harrop for ~10K to13K. You can go slightly higher with E85 but thats about 20K. Transmission is good for 700, at-least 600, depending on what day you ask IPT (the valve body folks).

Main issue is getting traction as most folks are running knobby terrain tires. With those numbers we've got members pushing sub 5s on their trucks and they are lifted, loaded bed, etc set up for truck duty. The fastest truck on here is sub 4s but its a RCSB with an AWD conversion (from the Sequoia) build engine and barebones stripped down etc.

For day to day driving those are respectable numbers and good day to day manners. Turn of all the nannies and you'll have a hard time keeping it between the lines, wet or dry.

Tundra makes for a hilariously good sleeper for half the figure you mentioned. TRX is in its own class so it wont be apples to apples.

 

This. The interiors are the best.

TRX is cool. I outgrew cool a couple years ago. I do not prefer the looks of the TRX, nor do I want the offroad capabilities of the TRX.

and I'm frequently in parking garages and drive downtown Houston when business forces me too.

These are some of the reasons I don't prefer the TRX. and it's a FIAT.

now, if you put the TRX drivetrain in a top range Big Horn/Laramie 1500, I'd have a look-see.

 

For 3rd party verification....The dude fixing my '34 Ford called it a "helluva sleeper"

 

man, I hope these dudes will put my gauges on...

they are a stone's throw from the Casa.

http://gforce-tx.com/

If they will entertain me...I'd like to see another dyno of my truck with boost & AFR on the graph.

and they have a AFM-1000 Wideband Sensor - whatever that is....

 

@reywcms I personally would rather spend an extra $130 on a coupler even if it only got an extra 10-15k miles out of it. The PEEK is the recommended go to on the boosted page. If you’re well practiced on changing it out, and don’t mind tinkering all the time I guess use the cheap one? I don’t have the garage space yet personally and would rather spare the busted knuckles. This post on FB I believe is Firemandan’s regarding his coupler experience. (This post was over 2 years ago and I don’t think he has had a coupler issue since). Brian Zacuto owns SCOL and has more experience with these than anyone. https://bccncmilling.com/machining-...n-ptfe-plastics-tips-advantages-applications/