General Supercharger Thread

Ordered a universal intake manifold heat shield last night. They have specific ones for different car manufacturers, except Toyota and of course Magnusun.

@reywcms maybe snag some for that whipple?!

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hsp-140004

 

Damn that is cool!

 

I agree I just put the stainless works on this past Monday. The quality is definitely really nice. Everything lined up and fit like factory. Bolts were a real pain to get to but with enough swivels, patience, and persistence it wasn't too bad. Install took about 6 hours total. I had no secondary cats and TRD exhaust on it prior to the headers. Its quieter on cold start (go figure) but a bit louder at cruise and insane under wot. I'll probably enjoy it for now but might follow @Downytide and quiet it down a bit.

 

Does it require any O2 harness extenders with the o2 bung being lower on the pipe than factory? At least for the Taco I had to get one when it relocated.

 

Yes it came with 3 O2 extensions. And i agree with you. I wasn't a fan of how it sounded from all of the stainless works videos. I heard them on a customers truck with the factory TRD and thought it sounded good so i went with it for that reason. Videos are always hard to judge i guess.

 

So when I was looking at their kits as an entire exhaust, I only found them on 3rd party sites. When I go to Stainless Steel site directly, they sell these in two separate kits. And now I see the exhaust DOES have an X-pipe! Where the other kits I saw of theirs has an H pipe. Wonder if they did a redesign? Do you have the Redline or Legend mufflers?

 

Sorry i don't think i clarified. I just put on their longtubes but am still using the TRD catback.

 

Congrats! at wot is really intoxicating, x-pipe definitely helps a lot on toning it down.

One thing to keep in mind is that the after-cat pipes are 2.5" ID, that was one reason why I didn't go with it, I'm still planning to do full 3" after x-pipe while re-use factory mufflers.

 

Does it come in gold lol. Maybe add it to the maggy as well when I yank the blower and pulley it. Unless I move to a Whipple also lol. Who knows

 

I think not, but no one will see it. You can say it's "gold"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNQD6oj8nBo

 

Maggie 2650!

 

LOL! Also an option. I can't wait to see it

 

Same

 

Why stop at a 4.5” intake? Just get you a 5.5”.

https://ddrperformance.com/lexus-lx...qDBn5rcb2xMoz4HIYnRBBUMvnb7r0&mibextid=Zxz2cZ

 

Also, this has me wanting to try some of this honeycomb stuff. You can buy a sheet of it and cut it to whatever size you need. This was on a remote turbo tundra. My AFR gauge fluctuates wildly as well and I think it’s partially related to my 3.5” intake moving so much more air and causing turbulence (which will soon be replaced with the 4”). I’d be curious if it would fix it.

 

When I see that honeycomb stuff...my first thought is air restriction.

 

No doubt it is a sacrifice of some total flow for a more uniform flow and a better MAF reading. This same concept is applied across many industries including refrigeration. Next time you’re at the grocery story look in the top of the fridge/freezer case and you will often see honeycomb air straighteners. They improve the performance quite a bit in that application.

 

yes. but maximum flow is not the goal of those examples.

I doubt uniform flow is a material variable in the intake side of the motor. its too darn short to matter.

What evidence do we have to support the theory of turbulence creating a faulty MAF reading? are your MAF reading really faulty?

 

I don’t know that we do have evidence, other than the 1 example I cited above that resolved the rapidly fluctuation AFR that I am currently experiencing. My thought was perhaps it’s worth a try for $35 to resolve that issue and have greater confidence in my AFR reading and thereby safety of my engine. The MRP website shows Short term fuel trim variance improvement with the honeycomb installed, going from about 25% +/- variance to 12% +/- variance. You haven’t even had eyes on your AFR on a wideband yet, so yours may be doing the same thing as mine with the 3.5” intake.

 

could be. my AFR drops to minimum (11.9 - still on OBD narrow band) as soon as I give it the beans.

I could see how this could be an issue, but not a huge issue....I think the blower negates all the turbulence issues by yanking all that air in. The turbulence goes away once it gets all skwished under the blower.

and, my guess, it's only going to be an issue at the top end of the RPM range.

and, what are the effects of the added resistance to our already anemic 3.5" inlet?



I am just sitting at my desk in between bullshit meetings, so y'all will have to play along with my blather.

 

No doubt, the blower does nothing but create turbulence lol. The turbulence for the sake of the blower inlet and combustion is not the concern though, it’s the effect the turbulence has on the MAF to properly do it’s job. Considering the MAF is in control of reading all of the airflow accurately, which the computer then uses to accurately control the fueling it is worth talking about. I probably won’t bother with it on the 3.5” intake anyway since I’m changing it out but I’d be curious if it would help with a larger 4-4.5” intake as well. I’ll see how the AFR looks once it’s installed.

 

I see now.

if this turbulence is mucking the MAF then fueling will be wrong.

and I agree..make the intake bigger before jacking with any perceived turbulence issues.

 

that thing is sweet

 

I think it comes out to 700ish USD assuming they will ship to the US.

 

That's why you need a wideband your narrowband instantly because useless when you give it the beans, and it's not like you're running so rich that you know you're safe so it's acceptable that it's useless, instead it just tells you it slightly richened it out and for all you know you're still too lean (11.8) or insanely rich (<10).

Though to be fair, as I recall you had a dyno tune done so they (hopefully) stuck something in the exhaust to measure actual afr.

 

AFR is still sitting on workbench...I'm still dicking with that damn Radium can! final part came yesterday. had to get a 1/2 to 3/8 thingamajig.

I recall they had a thing in the exhaust and they pushed low 10's. but I was young and naive back then to pay close attention.

I hope to see those 10's when I get the damn thing installed.




sidebar....we are interviewing for an O&G electrician.....5 of the folks didn't even show. the other 2 were numbskulls. what's wrong with people?

 

Similar sidebar, we're getting applicants that can't pass a simple background check.

 

I’ve been doing some more MAF research. Sounds like there’s a good chance a straightener screen may also fix the occasional P0101 code that pops up especially when I’m towing. There must be a reason that a majority of OEM’s use a MAF sensor that is a one piece tube with an integrated honeycomb built in. The Toyota setup is frankly more crude than a lot of other MAFs. Here’s a good video that shows how even the air washing over the filter from the radiator fan can effect the MAF sensor reading. Air stratifies quite a bit when flowing fast through a tube, the inner most air will travel faster than the air on the outside edge. It makes total sense to straighten it out and get a better average reading in the one little spot the sensor is reading. To measure the airflow in ducts for example, you can’t get an accurate measurement by just taking one static pressure measurement. You have to break the duct up into a grid type pattern and take a ton of readings (called traversing the duct) and average the static pressure to figure out the CFM. After some research I intend to use the straightener screen personally.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=H5rNb7QoIw0&pp=QAFIAQ==

 

Just glue a bunch of straws together

 

Hahaha