General Supercharger Thread

My thought is basically cause F paying PS $700 for an underdeveloped box when i can make my own, better, and cheaper (or same price after buying the Stillen box and custom tube). If more power, cool. But mostly I think it's the maf tripping issue. I'd be curious to see what the costs are to port out the magnusun intake opening since it looks like there's plenty of room for it.

 

More curious about this little guy. If I can get MRP to install both line fittings that'd be ideal. Just couldn't tell what that is used for/if it's used on the s/c'd applications

 

If you could I would probably wait for AFE to come out with their box. You'll easily exceed 700 on parts if you run into any fitment issues.

 

Not sure but great question. Would have to review install instructions on Harrop to see where that gets fitted.

 

On the Harrop they have you run that to the boost port to boost reference the fuel pressure regulator. Not sure where that goes as per the magnuson install. You may benefit from running it the same way? Harrop also provides a different FPR with the kit though that I think it’s main function is to run a higher pressure.

 

For the maggy it goes to the fpr. Haven’t seen a size for it listed in the install manuals of TRD intake or maggy lol

 

I kinda thought so. Did the same to boost reference the Taco but did require some tuning adjustments.

lol i don't disagree! I tend to get ahead of myself until I see final costs. I'm also impatient without knowing when the AFE will come out. I need to learn, one s/c project at a time. I haven't even installed anything yet lol

 

I hear you. Plus plans may change if you see a better way of getting the project done. At one point I was looking at offset couplers reducing from 4.5 to TB.

Unless the AFE has SABM or a front facing inlet Stillen will likely be the better option. The inlet is roughly the size of a 3 inch SABM cut.

 

Just linked this on the other thread, but ya AFE would definitely be the way to go. You can see how much better/larger the SABM is that they make. And the fender hole area seals up completely tight. Could even enlarge the fender side

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ricks-and-mods.518932/page-1942#post-26263576

 

The enlargement alone wont be enough but I see it has an option for a front facing inlet. Finding room for the front inlet will be interesting.

 

I think there is a restriction at the top end from what I recall.

Some discussion here:
https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/...-the-lexus-lc500-rc-f-onto-the-tundra.759032/

 

That's what owner of PS told me as well. Oem inlet causes power loss up top and also if you don't cut out the inner fender but add the larger intake, it'll start breaking up up top.

 

Makes sense as far as the TB being the restriction, but that just seems to clear up the fact that the boost and power gains are from the larger TB which was already the restriction Versus the 4” intake tube. You’re just increasing the most restrictive part of the intake diameter from 3” to 3.3” with the RCF TB. I’d for sure do it if it were not so expensive. Maybe something to save up for later.

 

https://www.prospeedautosports.com/...ake-and-rcf-throttle-body-adapter-kit-testing

 

Nice write up. I wish they mentioned if the Maggie box had the SABM done or not.

 

Also have to wonder how much of those test results of theirs would still hold true on a truck with stock manifolds. If you’re not moving the exhaust gases out of the cylinders at a rate that is well matched to the better flowing intake, does that extra flow on the Intake side still translate to more power?

 

What do you think the drivetrain loss is at the hubs?

 

From the dynos posted here, stock Tundra makes about 300whp. So about 20%.

 

Are you questioning the % loss of a hub dyno vs a chassis dyno? I’d say ballpark that a hub dyno may show a 13-15% loss for what would be a 20% loss on a chassis dyno. In that one YouTube video I shared a few pages back the same car on a chassis dyno made 223hp, but on a hub dyno it made 265. Even with the small and relatively lightweight wheels/tires on that Porsche it lost 21hp per wheel on the chassis dyno. Big and heavy wheels and tires will be an even bigger loss on a chassis dyno.

 

Ya hubs because I’ll hopefully be able to use a hub dyno tomorrow or Friday.. trying to get the most accurate crank number.

 

Took some measurements and it looks like both the stillen and throttle body angle upwards at a total of around 40*. Hopefully the hump connection on maf/airbox side gives it that extra little bend needed and i can use a 45* 4.5" reducer to the tb. Ooorrr loosen the screws holding down the airbix a tad?

 

Humps are only good for 10 to 15 degrees from what I understand.

If it is around 40 you'll likely benefit from the 45 degree reducer you have in your parts. I tried using two 45 degree elbows, even when I cut them down to just the elbows and leaving enough material to clamp I was over length by 5 or 6 inches; the only option would have been to have a shorter filter which I don't think they make. Your part is a two in one reducer and elbow so it may actually save you space. You might even be able to go adapter -> hump -> MAF -> reducer elbow -> TB and put your fitting on the MAF tube after the MAF sensor.

Another option could be to redesign the adapter to the Stillen box and give it some angle and/or extend it.

 

Interesting, I think the Harrop has to be ported.

 

What I was told as well from David directly during my install.

 

Saw this and thought it was good

 

Why would it blow up? Lol a good tune and it’ll run forever if maintained. Plenty of supercharged rigs with tons of miles.

Congrats on the rig!