General Supercharger Thread

For easy finding again, thanks @Saltyhero13

 

no worries. If you plan on keeping the Stillen you can come up with a better more permanent solution to mating the tube to the box. I pieced mine together that way in case I needed to return especially if it didn't lower my IATs. Not sure if it introduced a constraint to the system since I never dynoed the truck after switching it from PS to Stillen.

 

I'm trying to get my friend to 3D print a copy of the Stillen tube end that connects to the filter, and reduce it down to 4.5" on the other side. And for the TB side use this silicone 45* bent 4.5-3.5" reducer https://www.siliconeintakes.com/bending-reducer/reducer-elbow-p-8.html

 

The angle on the bend reducer will most likely be too much but it may work on the stock position. When you get your blower installed the geometry may change.

 

I was impressed with the build quality from the company, if I ever need to get another MAF tube I know where I am shopping.

Oh and my air is straighter now XD

 

Friend said no issues designing the adapter but his printer is down, just have to order the print instead. I'll probably start there and wait to finish the other end later

 

Cool, can't wait to see how it comes out!

 

Ya this should be pretty simple to print

 

Happy new years gents

 

Stillen adapter. Uses stillen filter with 5 7/8" filter, reduced down to 4.5". It's smooth on the inside, no sharp edges. Then couple that to the 4.5" maf tube. My friends printer is down. Any suggestions on where to get it printed?

 

I’ve seen a few on the Google. You send the file they quote and print

 

Do you know what temp that area of the engine gets up to? Need to figure out what material to print it in

 

There's probably a local place, could even ask on Facebook or your friends if they know anyone with a printer. I have a $300 Ender sitting on my desk, as do a lot of people. There's also online places like Protolabs that have fancy machines and a lot more material options.

For temperature I've seen MAF readings of 200F sitting in the drive through when it's 100+ out. So I'd pick something that can handle a lot of heat.

 

found a local place that has a ton of material. Sent off the file, should get quote tomorrow

 

Nice! This might be able to be integrated into the maggy box with some work of course then one could run a cone filter.

 

We could certainly modify the file easily enough make it work. Doing the rest of the tube is gonna require some work.

Hopefully the lengths all come out correct. Wish it could all be one tube but this is how it's planned

1. Air filter
2. new 4.5" reducer adapter
3. 4.5" ID / 3" long hump coupler
4. 4.5" OD / 6" long maf tube
5. 4.5" ID / 3" long hump coupler
6. 4.5" OD / ??" long tube
7. 4.5" ID to 3.75" ID / 3" long reducer.

* Only reason I did the 3.75" Throttle Body side was because the reducer was $20 cheaper that the 3.5". Also the 3.5" to 4.5" only came in the longer 4" long version. If it doesn't clamp well enough I'll fork out the extra cash for the other version. All HPS silicone brand connectors

** Alternately I may be able to do a longer silicone reducer tube between the MAF tube and the the TB. Put the vacuum lines in the maf tube

 

I suspect you'll have less ground to cover since you're mating to the airbox with an external adapter so your parts list may be shorter.

You may not need #5 and #6 and may be able to get away with a longer #3 4.5 coupler though I only remember seeing longer straight couplers. You'll definitely want at least one hump coupler to deal with any angles and engine twist. It all depends on where you are putting your vacuum line too. I didn't want to risk messing up the beautiful MAF tube and it was cheaper to get 3inch 4.5inch OD connector/couplers pipes.

You'll need a vacuum fitting if you don't have one; Vibrant sell a "no weld" solution that seems to be holding up.

For #6 the shortest I found is 3 inch with the raised clamp ribs. It was such a tight fit that I didn't really need the ribbed ends but it will keep it from coming apart.

 

The intake I purchased off fastlane had the SABM airbox 3” flange installed but I needed the 3” flange for the fender side as well as the tubing and clamps. I got decent quality parts off Amazon for $16 and it’s essentially the same exact thing. Had I needed the airbox flange it would have totaled $24. Certainly better than paying $90 for the Gtek SABM kit! This should work out perfectly and won’t look quite as rigged together as some pvc pipe. Is there anything you can’t find on Amazon in a pinch? Oh, I also inquired with DAP about some tune tweaking for the 4” tube. Hope to hear back soon. I’m curious if there will be any actual gains, or just peace of mind on the MAF voltage front.

 

Way easier piecing it together for sure!
Just be sure it's mounted low enough in the box where the hardware won't interfere with the filter sitting flat. I used black rtv and hardware to seal it up. Old pics attached

 

Yours looks good. I was questioning if I should pass the pipe side through the hole from the wheel well and screw it on from that side, or just screw the flange on in the engine bay side. I guess it’s cleaner to stick the tube through the hole like you did, and fasten it from the fender side.

 

Yea it's cleaner in the engine bay this way I think. But all that will be coming out since for me it rubs during hard travel. lol

 

@Saltyhero13 So MRP said that they can make me a custom length MAF tube for around $173! Big win in the design phase of a new 4.5" tube. My next question to them is going to be about welding in that 5/8" vacuum line fitting. My question is about that third super tiny vacuum line that runs to the air box. I couldn't see it in your picture, if that was connected or not. I'm assuming it is still used?

The first go at ordering a printed Stillen box air filter/tube adapter costs came in at $68 shipped. New tube would require one hump connector (HPS $35) and one 4.5" to 3.5" reducer (HPS $75). I only went with HPS because of name brand and good heat resistance. I'm sure we could find cheaper replacements. But that would put the total cost of a 4.5" tube at around $350

 

The only vacuum line I use is the small one. The large is a pcv I capped to keep shit out of the intake area. Also not sure but these maybe cheaper

https://www.siliconeintakes.com/silicone-hose/

 

Hmm, good to know. Do you know the dimensions of the smaller one? If anyone else is interested in ordering the tube, I think it might bring the cost down some. Will be probably a week before I get my printed part in and can take a measurement for the tube to send them

 

Unfortunately I don’t and can’t look since I don’t have my truck. Let me see if I can find it somewhere.

 

That is great to hear! I think they offer larger OD tubes too which can open up options later. I really like their product. I noticed my air is straighter too (I have the option with the mesh) All jokes aside they make nice kit.



RE: Custom tube. I would consider fitting the other parts first before committing to a length. Also do you have the throttle body installed? If I recall correctly the 4.5 to 3.25 fit better.

I think in your case overall fitment will be better with at least one hump coupler if not two. So Stillen adapter -> hump -> MAF -> hump -> coupler pipe -> reducer -> TB. I suspect that may be too long for your set up so you may be able to get away without the hump and coupler pipe after the MAF or stuff the coupler pipe into the hump and reducer.

Also are you installing a Maggie or Harrop? I forgot which. I think the Maggie intake points up at an angle like the stock set up, Harrop is flat.

RE: Vacuum line I was waiting for parts to ship in the picture you referenced and was showing fitment of everything else. I ended up using the Vibrant no weld option on the coupler pipe right before the TB. I can snap a picture later.

 

Cool cool. definitely waiting on my other parts to arrive before ordering the custom length tube since that isn't refundable! They did say I could return the tube I already ordered.

I'm running the Maggy, so good to know. Oh it's 3.25" on the TB side? Then I'll be returning that HPS reducer to Amazon and ordering a new on. will see what the options are for any angled silicon connectors/reducers

 

On the Harrop the 4.5 to 3.5 was too big using the larger Lexus TB, 3.25 is a tight fit but it will get on there. I forget what the OD of the TB is but ~85mm or so sounds about right, 3.25 is about ~83mm. Good quality silicone shouldn't split.

 

Is the desire for the 4.5” tube solely for the MAF voltage issue, or is the thought that the 4.5” should make more power? Just curious if there is a consensus. The stock TB is 3”, and even the RCF TB is 3.3”, so flow wise I’d have to assume that would be the main restriction anyway as far as making power, even as compared to a stock 3.5” intake tube? I just don’t want to miss out on any easy power by going with a 4” tube.