General Supercharger Thread

Badass!!

 

Good call. How are your transmission temps?

 

So far so good just driving around town. The highest I saw today was 188… without towing something driving 90+ mph I would typically be around 203 degrees. So I’ll check next time I’m on a toll road and see if it performs as good with the new placement. Before the cooler if I was on the highway (not towing)doing 80mph the temps would be 222-232.

 

Well that makes me feel better. I have the stock cooler and at 80mph normally seen high teens, so not far off from you (before). I had always thought it was the new torque converter I have which is supposed to have a higher stall (going off the tranny shop claiming that but no proof), but lately I've wondered if the transmission tuning and running higher line pressures and such is actually what has driven the trans temp up since it used to be lower.

 

I was just checking and ya, even though it does fit, it's like the male connector's body is ever so slightly smaller so it can wiggle around inside a bit and the sides don't really click into position. I've ran into this before and I usually put a wrap on it so the male end is a little thicker. In...

Omg I'm crying and giggling too much

In this case some electrical tape around the male end so it's more snug when plugging in and preventing any wiggle

 

That would be me. +1 for the Radium, but as @snivilous said, just get the single PCV can as the other is still dry after 28k miles now.

 

I've been saving up the accumulation from my Radium kit. I'll post a picture tomorrow of how much it's collected.

 

Wanted to check back in on this, particularly the 750cc injectors on the Maggy. Other than the fuel pump, anything else fuel related you've upgraded? I want to place my order for injectors this week, but bouncing back and forth between 650 and 750cc.

Edit: i'm too impatient lol. Just placed an order for the 750's through prospeed

 

@reywcms do you know what size gold hose wrapper you used? Looks like the lines are 1"OD, and I see 1" hose wrappers, but I'm wondering if I should be that up to 1.25" or not.

 

Also I ordered some Ruthenium HX forced induction specific spark plugs for the build. Haven't seen anyone here using them but the taco and tundra both use the same iridium spark plugs for s/c applications. Myself and several others swapped to the Ruthenium plugs over on the taco forum with good results. They both run cooler than stock. Iridium is more robust and will last longer,. Ruthenium provides a more thorough spark and ignition combustion. Anecdotal evidence is that the startup and idle feels smoother/sharper

NGK LFER7BHX 95125

 

I did 1.25”with the Velcro closure not the slip on version.

 

Thanks! It looks like these may also be Velcro but I'll double check.

Also whatchu guys think? I found something laying around in the garage. It could work lol



Totally joke btw!

 

Lol

 

I'm just using the injectors and the 450 fuel pump, everything else flows just fine. I believe Viktor G has a good video on building a 1k HP fuel system and how he tested it. You will need an external filter and some line. His video shows everything needed.

 

Radium ass fluid collected over 28K miles.

 

so are you that much lower in your oil pan?

or is it mostly water?

 

The consistency of the fluid is more similar to oil than water. I haven't noticed any drop in oil volume. I always check the dipstick before an oil change and haven't seen anything indicating a loss of fluid.

 

I have always been perplexed by this liquid.

where is it coming from?

if it's oil based, why is your oil pan still full?


ponderous

 

Same place where single socks come from after drying. From the deep abyss

 

Here's my simple logic...

The water bottle is 16.9oz and it's roughly half full. So let's say it collected 8.5oz of fluid after 28k miles. I change my oil every 5k miles so that collection is after 5 oil changes and part way into the 6th.

That averages out to collecting 1.7oz per oil change or 5k miles. Maybe noticeable?...that's getting pretty specific to read from the dipstick. Best way to confirm would be measure oil after draining to compare.

 

I also believe its a lot of moisture to oil. Read that somewhere.

 

so, if we didn't remove it with a catch can, it would go back into the engine and burn off in either the cylinder or by sweating off in the oil. right?

and I thought the Tundra has a capture system - PCV system - that condenses this crap and drips it back into the pan?


My '34 hot rod just belches this crap onto the street. ah...the good ole days.

 

Well over time it cakes the upper intake area and valves hence why the capture

 

These pics were from Facebook, this guy had to take his Whipple unit off the base/manifold when the coupler failed (Whipple has a weird style coupler btw). I think he even had a radium can installed for most of the blower ownership, and you can see the oily goo laying in the bottom of the intake pan. Just thought it was interesting to share.

 

sorry had the '22 last post (deleted)

so this thing catches the goop - unless you have a catch can.

right?

 

Yes

 

Theoretically yes, in practice there's still enough that gets by to make the intake nasty plus you have increased crank case pressure with the blower which isn't helping the stock collector. That's why the throttle body, intake, inside of the blower, etc. always look gross. It does get on the valves, but the injectors spray the valves off so I don't think there's really any harm from it. There's an argument that your effective octane is decreased because the shit gets burned up and can initiate detonation earlier. Personally I got the catch can because my PCV hose was leaking and the hose on the magnuson is a bitch and a half to get on and off and the catch can makes the hose installation easier I don't think it's required or even needed, but isn't hurting anything and certainly makes the intake less slimy when you're working on stuff.

 

I agree @snivilous , but I've always practiced on ALL boosted vehicles to make use of the catch can as like stated, the plenums can get caked up and reduce flow speeds with all that rough slime coating everything....iI guess I'm just saying it's good practice to use a catch can when boosted...both SCr or turbos...

 

great.

I just ordered the Radium.

 

Just pondering this some more while driving my son to school...

If the can collected 1.7oz per oil change over 5K miles and let's say oil drained is ~7.5 quarts (240oz). This would mean that oil in the pan would only be reduced by 0.71%.