Gen1 factory Tow Package question

Wouldn't OD be off on the A340 or or A750? Seems like 3rd gear in the A340 was very near same ratio as the 4th gear on the A750, so there would be very little difference.

 

Appears to be proportional. Been a long time since I trailer brake shopped, and I only did it once. This is what I've got.

 

That’s a good one

 

Im assuming both to reduce gear hunting. Once your pulling weight the a340 want to go down to first for hilly stuff. My friends a750 ive never been the driver while towing. But he has 32-33 wildpeaks and it wanted to be in 1st a lot too. I guess im used to diesels and LS'S that tow at like 1,500rpm with no strain.

Just to be clear anything involving not towing ill take my tundra.

 

Cool. Can't remember what I've got in my Tacoma and it's out of town right now. Not the same thing though. This is what came with the truck. I was happy to see the hitch, 7-pin connector (with 4 pin on the side), and trailer brake. Three things I don't need to buy. Now I just need to decide on suspension upgrades. I think my trailer has ~300lb tongue weight. I needed airbags on the Tacoma. Thinking I can get away with blue Sumo Springs on the Tundra. Hopefully that's it.

I forgot how many little (but expensive) modifications I've done to the Tacoma over the years to get it just right. I can't afford 10% of that stuff right now for the Tundra.

 

+1

Arguably the best you can buy.

 

So, getting back to my search for an 05-06 AC 2WD and my 'TowPackage' questions, another question
comes to mind :
1. How can you tell in advance if one of these 5spd trans has a 'pink-milkshake' in progress or very soon?
2. Are these trannys 'dip stickless' [sealed] ?
3. If so, how can you sample fluid quality? Loosening line nuts to the radiator or the exterior core and bleed some fluid out?
This would be the 2nd biggest concern shopping these trucks [after timing belt and LBJs], especially if approaching 150k+ mi's.

 

1) You'll know when it starts shifting funny => Best bet is to proactively replace with a new Denso brand radiator every 100-150k miles, it's a cheap fucking part, cheaper than a single LBJ (Note: DC and RC/AC trucks use a different radiator size)
2) Yes, sealed.
3) Via drain/fill, ultimately.

 

Just look in the radiator. It should look cloudy as well.

 

Ok. Thanks for those cues.
If I do find a worthy candidate then easiest assessment of trans fluid condition, other than backing pan nut off and bleeding some [which i dont think a seller would allow] then is just a visual look straight down into fillerneck? While total cold or just a bit warm?

Agree that for time/cost and ovr-all gen maintenance, Rad + fluid + hoses + thermo is cheap insurance.
While in there, if T-belt is due, may as well do it + pump too. There, allready spent my 1st 1500 on a truck i dont even own yet...
Thanks Tundras.com crew.

 

We love to spend other ppls money.

 

How long does it take to create a rusty block when weak coolant mix or mostly water has been used? [ vs. 50/50 'Asian red coolant'].

Looking at '05 AC V8 2WD SR5 [trd], 134K odo: undercarriage is clean, no sweat or drips fr/trans pan or block/trans seal; just a bit of sweat [not dripping] on steering rack boots. Oil filler clean cap. Genr'ly clean truck in/out, starts right up, but b4 starting i looked down into rad neck and its clear as water along w/reservoir tank. Not liking that. Also, havent driven yet. Carfax shows oil/filter services routine and LBJs replaced and a 'minor collision' passenger side. No signs of repair, overspray, color mismatch, surface quality differences, door/fender/bumper mis-aligns, etc. Either great B&P or very minor damage.
Its a trade-in on a Ford lot; likely took as down on new Ford...I'll drive b4 any offers, but their ask is $12.7...of course no record of T-belt so its likely never been replaced, as well as h2o pump & radiator. Given all that gets close to $2K w/out me turning a wrench, I'm thinking $10.5 max, provided all else [including compression & code chk]...
Too much to ask/hope for, or just walk away quickly since no absolute way of knowing how long its been run on "watered-down" coolant, or given that condition, what other dumb things have passed for 'maintenance'.
Your thoughts?