Garage solutions (when Tundra won't fit)

The other side of the wall is my kitchen.

 

Put a header in to support the studs in the wall you want to cut out, and then basically treat it like a huge doorway that you leave the drywall on the interior of the house attached. This would be a gain of about 4 inches. Then put a parking curb in so that your truck will go no further.

 

Possibly, will try ramps first.

 

Ok. I thought you had a detached garage. This definitely makes it more challenging then. Can you post a picture of your front garage with the garage door down? I have an idea to extend the garage door opening, track and door out.

 

This seems like it would be doable and it wouldn't really look much different from the front. I recall the OP saying something about having an HOA where he lives so some alterations are not possible. The framing looks to me 2x6 and then there's the brick facade. Moving the track to the outside of the garage neatly flush with the brick then trimming it out with some matching vinyl will not change the look much at all. Height may become an issue but I'm not sure how much clearance he has. To clear the closing door he may need to bump that header up a few inches but that should be too hard to do.

 

I actually have a few ideas. But I really like to match the exterior features of the garage with the home. There are a few ways to do this.

 

I'm with ya on that one. Maybe a pic of the whole front of garage. Door opened and closed. And a pic of the house from the front so we can see the trim and different features. Doesn't appear to be any trim around the garage door, just the casing, but the brick goes right to the opening. Maybe the builder can still source some brick. Looks like about a foot of wall thickness to work with a far as bumping the door and tracks out, making it look good will be the tough part.

 

Here is a photo i found off a website of it. Didn't want to walk outside near midnight.

 

Do you have good clearance height wise when you drive in?
I really think you can have that door moved outward about flush with the brick facade and trim it out, if you have the height clearance. That wall looks to be about a foot thick which is about what you need.

I have the single door 2 car garage too. I used to fit a Tacoma and venza in there. I really doubt I could do tundra and venza plus I have no shed so all my stuff is in there..so I got divorced to have space for my truck. Lol.

 

I have good clearance once I pass the garage door.

 

I'm talking the highest point of the truck and the lowest point of the door opening? You're gonna need a some decent space to move those tracks out clear the opening still.

 

No go on ramps. Tried six ways of Sunday and nothing worked. Backing it in on the ramps didn't appear to help. Drove it in normally and nothing. Part of the issue is the ramps I have to move back pretty far to get up on them and it basically erases any length gain. The back bumper or the front hood touched the wall before getting up on it.

 

You will have to move the ramps back away from wall. The truck will get shorter when on ramps, maybe not much but a bit (geometry).
Might have to mark where tires are on ground when all the way in, then place ramps accordingly, where wheels on top.

 

It's about 12-13 inches from the top of my truck roof to the top of the entryway into the garage.

 

Here it is with the ramps adjusted. I'm damn close, but it still looks like it won't shut. Didn't try to go head first again, worried about running through the wall. Ran out of time today can try tomorrow nothing else.

 

Damn!!! So Close!!!

 

Higher and or longer ramp? Can remove the license plate frame on the front to get a 1/2 inch to a inch at best.

 

Higher ramp for sure, don't think longer helps unless getting higher as well.

If your state does not require front L.P. I would take it off. You will be really close to getting closed, not sure how feasible on daily basis. Suck in really hard, LOL!

 

If the truck is to long I would strongly consider looking for a flush mount style rear bumper. This would give you the extra room you need to close the garage door.

 

State does require it in the front and rear.

 

Is this all aftermarket or will it look OEM?

 

I guess it depends on what bumper you go with.

 

You can just make you bumper quick disconnect and remove when you want to garage it. Or make a custom resesed portion in the garage wall so your truck can back up that extra couple inches. Unless it’s concrete that’d be a difficult job.

 

Have a garage door company come out and see if they can slide that door out to a point just shy off flush with the brick.

 

Cheapest solution would be to cut the drywall and get a few inches that u need from there. U will have to backup so the rear bumper goes inside the reccess area.

Not easy to park on the ramps. All the other solutions discussed above starts at $1000+
Or like Chris said, park it outside.

 

even cheaper would be to dent the garage door so it sticks out a few inches.

 

My oldest tried that on accident. Tried to back out with his Tacoma when the door was still going up. It worked in two ways, bent the hardy board door and p!ssed me off to high heaven! oh and scratched the topper.

 

You can’t just simply move the tracks out like that. The garage door is typically wider than the opening so it butts against the weather seal strips. I know it looks like an easy fix but unfortunately it’s not. There is a possible fix but it’s not simple nor cheap.