Fuel wheels/balancing issue

I Still have vibration even after they turned tires 180. They claim they balance out great. I’m not sure if I should make them swap the tires or the wheels or both? They are going to do something though because 2500 dollars invested and I have a wobble.
I know tie rods were mentioned but damn, I don’t want to throw money into that if I don’t have to.

 

You need to find someone with a Hunter road force balancer it will be able to tell if the tire or wheel or both are bad.

 

They have one. Claimed they used it. How can it tell? They keep telling me they are balanced fine.

 

Does your tire have little red or green dots on them?

 

Not that I’ve seen. Why?

 

Because when I have mine road force balanced they always have 1/2" dots on them. I believe it tells them where the heavy spot is on the tire so they can put it on the opposite side of the heavy spot on the rim.

 

Interesting. I don’t recall ever seeing dots.

 

Alright, I need help and suggestions.

I now have replaced the tires and have replaced the wheels. The entire setup is new. I STILL get a wobble in my steering wheel that starts around 55 mph. I don’t get it?
Could alignment specs cause this?
Someone mentioned he fixed it with tie rods from Coachbuilder I believe.

I’m looking for any suggestions. I’m thinking if I bring it to Toyota they are just going to blame it on aftermarket wheels/tires or the 6112 shocks. I’m not sure if I should bring it to someone else to road force?
Truck has 12,000 miles on it.

 

Not sure I have it. I’ll look though.

 

Do

Do you still have your stock wheels and tires? I would throw them back on and drive it and see if wobble still exists .....

 

Sold them. Wish I did though. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

You might want to go to a different shop and have them rebalanced just to make sure.

 

I have my stock set of TRD OR wheels and Michelin tires with less than 5K on them if you wanted to use them to rule out the wheel and tire combo. Let me know, I can load them up and bring them to work with me and drop them by your place.

 

You da man! Thanks Jeremy! I’ll let you know.

 

I’m thinking I’m going to.

 

It seems to start around 55-60 and doesn’t really do it at higher speeds. I don’t notice it much at lower speeds. That speed seems to to be the sweet spot.

Discount tire balanced. They are the only ones who have touched the tires/wheels.
Truck has 12,000 on it.
I’m thinking I should find a reputable place to road force to rule their worn out?
What else should I look for?

 

I would not put that past them. I’m going to another shop. thanks for the input. I’ll have them look at that.

 

You need to drive the truck and allow the tires to break in. Typically it will take a few thousand miles for the tires to settle to where you have less "bounce" because of the aggressive tread.

 

Thank you. I think that makes zero sense and makes zero impact with my issue but I appreciate the response.
I’ve run ATs for more years than I can remember and never had to break them in to get rid of the “bounce”. Haha

 

I made another appointment at a shop with all the Hunter gear and am going to pay for the Road Force. 80 bucks.
Plus they are mechanics over there so they may do a quick inspection. I climbed around and can’t see anything out of normal.
My UCA boot at the spindle on both sides has grease build up on the boots. They are stock UCAs but I can’t see a reason UCA would cause it.
I’ll report back.

 

I’m on it bro. I’ll be looking for those dots.

 

Here's a faded one thats on my car tire.

 

Look you don't seem to understand what I am saying. You are running a "Hybrid" MT/AT tire it is completely different from from a regular AT. The aggressive tread requires a break in.

 

Because I have suffered similar issues in the past, I’m going to say it is a balancing issue. Since it is a specific area of speed too, I think that the next shop will balance them out. If that turns out to be the case, then I would take the receipt back to the original balancer and have them issue a refund. It sucks though when you spend a crap load of money and the shop can’t get it right.

 

Thanks Jack. I’m thinking you’re right. I hope you’re right! If the next shop gets it dialed in I will be bringing that receipt to them. Appreciate the response.

 

No, BFG AT2 are not a hybrid. But even so no tire needs a “break in” to remove steering wheel vibration. I’m calling BS on that one. Guys on here are running muds and have indicated they have zero vibration. ANY vibration at the wheel is an indication something is off, PERIOD.
I’m not arguing with you but I don’t agree with your theory in any way.
Thank you for trying to help.

Edit.... you are thinking I’m still running RG which probably is a “hybrid” but I can tell you many owners are running these and have zero issue with vibration. They had no break in period!

 

I have REALLY aggressive mud terrains on my Xterra. 0 vibration at any speed. I have General AT2 tires on my Tundra. They were a pain to balance. Ended up just static balancing them. Was hesitant at first, but when I put them on the truck and test drove, no vibrations. None. Rides great. Sometimes with the really big tires static balancing is the way to go. What that is is weight is put into one spot on the inside of the rim using sticky weights. It can be a lot of weight, but don't stack the stickies. Evenly distribute them in the area it calls for. I'm on 2500 miles, 0 issues.

 

They have sticky weight stacked. I need to find a reputable shop