Fuel pump replacement

Hey, Thanks everyone! I will do the ECU thing and update.

 

I’d buy a lift first

 

Texas lift counts? Built one for overhauling Volvo transmission.

 

I'm sorry but this is killing me lmao

This job sucks, tremendously. I've done a lot of my own vehicle maintenance over the past 15 years and this is the only one where I gave up halfway through and took it to the dealership, and I paid for it out of pocket. I highly recommend taking the free recall work...

 

I went in for the warranty sunroof mechanism replacement on our less than year old Sequoia. They dropped the assembly onto the steering wheel ($1200) and broke rear quarter panel (don't know how much, but expensive as well). Took me about 2 months of fighting and a lot of lost neurons to get it replaced. This confirmed my old observation that techs at local dealers are P.O.S. clueless wreckers and why I do every repair for my vehicles myself.

I understand some jobs suck more than others, but I'm willing to take the pain and do it right.

 

I hear that. The people running the show at my local dealership are half retarded but the guys turning the wrenches seem to know what they're doing. I consider myself lucky.

 

Hat's off to the DIY guys that did this job. I attempted to replace a fuel pump on my F-150 without a lift and it was very difficult. Kind of like you, I ended up throwing in the towel. Access to the connectors is a PITA, you can't see much. I can't imagine completing it without a car lift and transmission jack. Not sure how much harder it is on a Tundra, but I imagine it would be similar.

I took it to a local shop, with competent mechanics, not a dealership, with incompetent nincompoop techs. I'm a 100% against dealership service after all my experiences and try to tackle almost everything myself. Fuel pumps are not an easy task though.

 

Would it be easier to lift the bed, rather than drop the tank? May not even need to completely remove it, just unhook any wiring / gas filler neck and unbolt and lift the bed until you have plenty of room to work on the top of the gas tank.

 

Yeah that would be easy. So, they put it all under the cab. Then the five hose connections have three different locking mechanisms to figure out to make it interesting. They also have a wiring harness, and hoses that give you about five inches of space to work in. You will invent new ways to cuss!

 

Gotcha, with the bed lifted, you still don't have access to the part of the tank the pump goes into. That does suck.

 

I had to drop my tank and do this on my DC 14'. Sucked. Definitely broke a connector, they all suck to remove and you cant fit under and in-between enough to see how they work. Only thing on my side was I had the small tank. Think I paid $550 for an OEM fuel pump on sparks.

Bought a 2017 CM and started having start up sputters and literally almost tossed in the towel. Thinking about dropping this big ass tank had me sweating. Luckily I got techstream and reset fuel alch density and problem has so far been solved. Fingers crossed....This issue really pisses me off though. I always think about how many people go through this and aren't on this forum to know.

 

Okay. I purchased the scanning tool and found the "Alcohol density reset". Performed the reset successfully. (it changed from 47% to 0). However, this didn't solve my problem. The engine starts fine with no lights for a minute. Then check engine light begins flashing and rough idle. While studying the scanner data, one thing seems to stick out at me. There is a line that says, "Alcohol density learning incomplete."
Side note: I did add a bottle of HEET to remove possible condensation due to the fuel lines being open to the air for weeks. So, the current Alcohol reading is 27%.

 

No pending or active engine codes?

 

Yes. It throws the P codes for ( I can't remember the exact words) for ignition problems in the different cylinders. I don't have plug or coil issues, but there are mentions of fuel pump or moisture in the codes.

I say that I don't have coil or plug problems! Hell, I didn't know this truck was flex fuel until a week ago. LOL I really dont think so though. The codes move around, and are inconsistant

 

AZ, Im looking for a diagram that shows which fuel lines go where on my fuel pump. I could have two of them backwards. But I dont believe it would start at all if these two lines were in the wrong place. I have not found anything helpful online so far.

 

Have you added a significant amount of good gas since putting it back together? Like 10-15 gallons?

 

AZ, yes I drove it to the station immediately afterwards. It is half full. I stopped there for fear of dropping the tank again.
Maybe I should top it up with non-ethenol gas and try to drive any moisture out.

 

They had your truck for 11 months? That shit should be illegal

 

It should. They gave me rentals I had 4 different vehicles in that time. Hell I took a Sennia on a family road trip. Should have just kept that thing.

 

Okay guys, my next plan of attack after thinking backwards. My truck ran pretty good before. It just wouldn't start in the cold sometime. I am going to first check my air cleaner to make sure nothing made a nest while it sat still.
Next, I'm going to assume the 1st five gallons of gas I poured into it could have been old? So, I am going to siphon the tank dry, and start over.
If that's not it, I will drop the tank again (and cry like a girl)

 

The random misfires would make me think bad fuel as well. Hopefully that’s it.

 

Check the engine wire harness for any rodent damage.

Recently had that joy to deal with myself.

Started the truck, dash lit up like a Christmas tree and CEL stayed lit.

I have a scan gauge 2 in my truck at all times. Scanned the truck, lots of codes, one was for multiple miss fires.

Popped the hood knowing full well what I was gonna find.

Tree rats gnawed my mass air flow meter wires.

Son of a bitch! Told the wife we are pedestrians until the new plug shows!

 

After the alcohol reset did you then start the truck and let it run for 10 min? Supposedly it is a part of the reset, not sure if that is why it is saying incomplete...But it is what I have done. Think it says to do so in the maintenance manual, read it somewhere at least.

Otherwise id say it is the fuel pump, sounds like what my '14 did. Started fine, but then under throttle felt like hesitation until it got bad enough that I threw the same P codes...

 

I will add another reset in there and let it idle for at least ten minutes before I start sucking gas. See if it'll learn.
Thanks for everyone's time and advice!

 

She Lives!
I wish that I had a ( Do This) answer for anyone struggling with this, or that has helped me troubleshoot!
Today I checked air filter. Clean!
I re-ran alcohol density reset. Let idle for 20 minutes or so.
Still check engine light flashing. Switched off the truck, cleared the codes again, restarted, and floored it! Up to 4500 rpms and held it.
I expected to check engine light to flash. But it never did. I continued to Hoss it, seeing if the new fuel pump would keep up? Yes!
I think reneaux post is correct. I never let it run that long. Also, it may have had water in the injectors? I used that Launch tool to diagnose those too.
Maybe, it just wanted/ needed to crap blown out?
Not much help. I understand. But, with this community, you can do this job . Thanks everyone!

 

With the price of the pump, fuel line I broke, and the cost of the Launch tool. I saved $150!
Lmao!

 

I think I may need a pump replacement my truck it runs fine once it's started but it takes 2-3 cranks to start but once pressure has risen it runs fine no stutters or anything weird the rpms slowly rise as the pressure then iddles back to normal levels no CEL as well

 

Only happens on cold starts?

https://www.tundras.com/threads/res...ge-level-with-bidirectional-scan-tool.123799/

 

Yes

 

Fuel pump won’t solve it. It’s a computer issue.