FS: 2018 Tundra LED Headlights Plug N Play wire Harness for 2014-2017 models

Im looking into these 2018 lights.

I really like the amber DTRL on all my previous toyotas (05 taco, 05 4runner and now 17 tundra).

is there a way to have the LED C at full bright AND the amber lights as DTRL? i want th 18 lights, but i also want the amber to function just like my 17 amber DTRL.

Thanks for any help everyone!

 

PMed,

 

another satisfied customer here. thanks iHacker for your harness and especially support while clearly laying out the install procedure. anyone on the fence, do so with confidence right here.

 

My brother picked up a black ‘18 Crewmax Limited Friday so I finally got an up close look at the LED headlights. Can’t wait to put mine on. This is his 3rd black Tundra! My ‘93 Land Cruiser photobombing back there.

 

@iHacker - Would it be possible to wire the LED DRLs to a switch instead of the factory switch? In my case I would like there to be no DRL unless I turn them on with a separate switch. I am sure there is, I just want to make sure. I either want to control my DRLs with a separate switch or only have them come on with the headlights.

And let me just say, your harnesses look to be built exceptionally well. I applaud your attention to detail sir.

 

I bought a harness for my 17 Limited from Retrofit W. back in Dec. Before I seen that u were selling the type eith the DRL relay option. Would U sell me the little relay harness to use with the harness I already bought? Thanks ,GD

 

If I understand you don’t need the DRL to dim, or even with dimming harnesses always is possible to control your DRL with a switch or even wire it to the parking lights to have them just with the first click of headlights switch, depending in your liking can be wired to any 12V supply

And for switch I remember I used this with my retros, right now with my setup I’m not using a switch but is really simple to do

Push switch 9B75NB 12volt For Toyota OEM DRL Tacoma LED NEW BLUE https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/253526636001

 

I can sell you the relayed DRL harness only but let me tell you this, I had this question before from some guys here, the Retrofit Wholesale harness isn’t wired for the Dimming signal, I always wire this even if the buyer isn’t planning to use it because we all know probably change mind in the future and this will be plug n play with my harness.


Their harness is missing this extra wire and with my harness isn’t a simply plug n play add on you still need to add the wire to their harness, you can correct me if this isn’t your case but for most guys they only had 4 wires in the 8 way main connector

You can compare and let me know, check this picture and I’m pretty sure the violet wire isn’t included in your harness don’t pay attention to the color coding just make sure if there’s is a wire present in this location

 

@iHacker do you know if the gray wire mod is the same for my '16 platinum? I upgraded to 18 headlights already but i want to add a switch to have the option to turn it off.

 

Not sure about Platinum/1794 but I guess should be the same Gray wire, the problem there is that this gray wire if present is wired directly to the main headlight harness in the flasher that could involve clipping the gray wire and this should be wired to the possible switch

 

If you check for that, to avoid clipping the wire you can also buy the Toyota pigtail kit for that gray wire, I know I have the part number somewhere let me see if I can find it

 

Thanks where is this flasher you speak of? under the dash still? It will be a while before I attempt this. I need to get a Switch Pro first and I was thinking of using one of the outputs on a micro relay to disable/enable DRL.

 

Yeah flasher is under dash same as the SR5 but just not sure if the DRL gray wire is present or wired separately, remember the Platinum and 1794 have that extra plug we don’t have in our trucks and also have a fuse for the LED DRL in fuses box so not sure if it is a independent harness or is included in the flasher

 

I been playing around with this in my truck for the last month, while it’s working good in my truck I’m still not confident to sell something like this, I’m not sure about dependability of this and as I mentioned before using rectifiers involves voltage drop, with the schottky diodes I used the drop is barely noticeable just around 0.20V I’m going to share pictures for that,









And this is a bench test sorry didn’t find a 12V battery but using a simple 9V to show the slightly voltage drop does the job

Harness 1

Hi beam lead at full voltage


Lo beam same time with Hi beam show a 0.20V drop





Harness 2

Hi beam lead at full voltage same as harness 1



Lo Beam lead same time with Hi beam show a 0.20V drop same as harness 1





This works but I’m not sure if I want to gamble with this I know this simplify the install but not sure.


Guys what are your thoughts about this?

 

Voltage drop for the lows only happens when the highs are on, or all the time?

I may just go this route and make an extra set to carry around with me?

Or I can just use the motocontrol harness I already have for the retro I was going to do and just call it a day...!!

 

Yeah voltage drop in Lo Beam only with high beam ON, this eliminates completely the need for Motocontrol but...


This is same method used in Retrofit Source harness I just tried to hide the rectifiers in the wiring (a total PITA), I guess they soldered the diodes with terminals because I see a heat shrink covering the H4 connector

 

The voltage drop isn’t noticeable since the High beam is at full brightness and low beam just reduced by 2.31% so still plenty of useful light output coming from low beam at 97.69% of total brightness

 

Could the life of the diode also be dependent on how often the high beams are used? Or does power flow through it every time the headlights are on, which could potentially wear out over time?

 

Power flow though the diode only when using high beam, while using low beam only work to block current flowing to the high beam wire, I’m pretty sure this will last for very very long time, I been using diodes for years, mainly in computers PCBs or PC power supplies but hey if work with a 120V AC fine for years why not in a 12V application and considering LED headlights use low amperage.

 

right on, thanks for the pics and descriptions.

I think i will go this route to at least get my lights installed. then build a bussmann block and eliminate the diode and add the "C" LED DTRL.

I am good with having lo/hi functionality of the headlights and just the amber bulb acting the same as my current '17 does in these '18 lights to start off with.

 

PMed, I guess I find a more professional looking option

 

When using this harness without the motocontrol, will the delayed headlight shut off still work?

 

Yes it’s working

 

If you decide to start producing this harness, please let us know.

 

Without Motocontrol?

 

If people are more inclined with this maybe in a week or two

 

That would be interesting, to eliminate completely motocontrol, less thinks to worry to go bad

 

Yeah look what simple is,

I think I’m ok for testing now, removing my Motocontrol today

In pictures driver side is still using Motocontrol passenger side my new harness

Passenger side new harness






Driver side still wired to Motocontrol




Harness in action




Output unchanged

LO BEAM




HI beam




Bye bye Motocontrol

 

Just taking advantage of the nice weather today and decided to take apart the front end of truck one more time