Frame rust - fuel tank

It's at their discretion to charge anything they want. Just let them install whatever links they want, cut them out when you get it back. Or tell em not to bother installing if it's possible with said part, just leave the swaybar zip tied up if they really plan to charge for that part.

 

would it be required to remove the half shafts and sway bar links to do the frame swap? If yes, then I should not be charged as they would be doing the install either way. If no, then that could be a different story.

 

If by 'half shaft' you mean 'CV axle', I'm trying to think of a reason they'd need to fully uninstall the axles. I can see why they'd need to yoink the wheel end, but not remove it from the front diff completely ... but I may be missing something.

They're going to need to pull the swaybar to attach to the new frame for sure. They also need to pull the LCAs at least pull the cam bolts, so they'd need to detach the links from the LCA too I reckon.

You should expect to be forking out anywhere from $1,000 - 3,500 in parts and labor on a frame swap, depending. I see why you're fighting the swaybar links, that just seems stupid. I'm trying to visualize whether they need to pull the CV out of the front diff for the swap, but I'll be honest, spacial thought isn't my strong suit before lunchtime.

 

They say they wouldnt need to remove the axles therefore there is a labor charge. One supposedly fell apart when working on it. The sway bar links they broke one taking it apart but say they woudnt need to take the ends off as part of the frame replacement and since it broke, there is labor. The most annoying part to me is when you told me you needed the parts, that was the time to tell me what the labor would be. Note for the future, get it all in an email not a phone conversation.

 

They did the same to Tundra2, IIRC, maybe NickB also. I understand your frustration, but they can't be honestly expected to give you a bonafide number up front. It's normally "this amount, pending unforeseen circumstances" from what I saw w/the other guys.

Le'ts be real: How are they going to expect a CV axle would break? And the swaybar links are pretty stout, so nobody would expect one to snap. They aren't wrong: They technically only need to unbolt the lower end where it attaches to the LCA, or vice-versa.

I know it probably seems petty, and I don't disagree. But I'm Switzerland on this one. I see your side. I see their side. I don't think either is "wrong" per se, I think it's a simple matter of expectations and goals; you each have your own here.

 

All fair comments and I appreciate the input. Seeing what they come back with, i may be willing to split the difference or may just have to bite the bullet but i doubt I am getting them to drop to zero.

 

Be prepared for every bolt to be over-torqued via an impact wrench. I’d be surprised if they take the care not to do that. I’d recommend getting an impact wrench if you don’t already own one to get things apart for repair or replacing worn parts.

 

sounds good, good idea didnt think of that.

 

They straight up Sawzalled my LCA's off both sides. Not sure exactly what they gain from that but it meant I got new ones so I'm not mad.

I also supplied new sway bar links with mine because mine looked rough. I don't recall labor on it, they didn't split things up well. My bill was around $1400 with timing belt change.

I'm surprised an axle would fall apart. I'd imagine they do have to pull those out of the hub side at least for disassembly then leave in the diff, if it broke at the hub side I could see why they would charge labor if they had to remove it from the diff to replace it.

 

Just picked the truck up from the dealer and took to have the tires balanced. It is amazing how much better this thing drives but when you drop some coin on old parts good things happen as well I suppose. I haven't given it a full once over and will take it to a friends with a lift upcoming and we will go over it well. The only thing I have noticed so far is the brakes have a lot of travel before doing anything which I am guessing means they need to be bled more. Dealer said the tech noticed the brakes were spongy, like they were when you brought it in. He bled again but no change. They were not spongy when I brought it in and likely I will take back or just may bleed myself....depends if I want the easy route or principal for saying it was that way before.

 

Before you go bleeding everything, which may've been done right, shift your focus to the rear brake adjustment first and foremost. It made a huge diff'ce for many - https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/

 

I would have never thought to check that, that will be my first task. Thanks! I just checked and the parking brake doesnt work at all. I can push it as far as I can and on a slight grade never even slows me down.

 

You cannot maintain proper rear brake function without parking brake functioning as expected.

The dealership fucked this one up. Take it back and tell them the parking brake worked prior, and doesn't work now. Make them fix that. You may find it magically fixes your braking woes.

 

Not too bad for its age! Thanks to everyone on the message board, the smart people and knowledge is awesome.



Next project is dealing with the bed rust seen below. I was thinking of taking somewhere and sandblasting then applying ospho if needed but I am afraid the metal wont hold up to sandblasting. Also betting the bottom looks the same but really not wanting to pull the bed off to treat it with ospho. Input welcome, never dealt with something like this before but after a new frame and everything else I need to get ahead of whats left and there are spots by each bolt. Two like this and two less. Was hoping to treat then go have it sprayed.

 

Yeah, it’s pretty much shot. Rust originates from below and comes through the bed. Best to just cut out the cancer and weld in a blank panel or donor bed piece. I’ve got a handful of rust hole rot all over my bed.

 

That steel is delaminating. You'll probably find it's delaminated at least a half inch up under the paint. Best bet is to find a truck with a wrecked ass-end, and cut some patch pieces out to be welded back in and sealed top and bottom after. Or swap the bed with a southern bed, but the outside looks so good it'd be a shame. If you have rust there, I bet you've got a gaggle under the fender flares too. EDIT: Little jinx action w/Bill there. Simultaneous posts with same thought. Great minds think alike

 

The fenders were rough with part ate away on the bed.....those are aftermarket fender flairs a friend and I painted and installed. We sanded the rust to the metal, treated with ospho, then sprayed over that with some rust product that reminded me of undercoating (name escapes me) then installed the flairs. Maybe I just need to pull the bed, cut out the spots and replace/seal is about the best option since the paint and bed in general is in great shape.

 

Get on car-part.com and find a front-end collision truck and buy its bed.

 

Give it that once over as soon as you're able. I had a few areas of my frame that were missing paint, especially under both front tow hooks, just bare steel. It would also be good to fluid film it as soon as you can. I didn't drive mine after I brought it home until I fluid filmed it since it was nice and clean.

In regards to your parking brake not working as @shifty` said, I'd take it back and see if they will line it out. Once the parking break is lined out you should have improved brake performance.