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flowwall?

Discussion in 'Home Improvement' started by smslavin, Dec 23, 2020.

  1. Dec 23, 2020 at 9:50 AM
    #1
    smslavin

    smslavin [OP] Behind a lens...

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    has anyone used this stuff?

    https://www.flowwall.com/

    i need to desperately organize my studio gear. i have stuff everywhere and the milk crates are no longer cutting it. the crates work great for packing bits to throw in the truck to go to a gig but not so good for storage. i can't find anything.

    i need some shelves and hooks for hanging cables. flowwall may be over priced for what i need though.

    storage room currently has exposed studs on one wall. maybe i should just throw up a couple of sheets of plywood or osb? would osb be strong enough to hold anything without a stud behind it? cables are heavy and i have stuff ranging from 5 to 300 feet in length.

    any other ideas?
     
  2. Dec 23, 2020 at 10:02 AM
    #2
    jonclark96

    jonclark96 New Member

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    I put up some of the flow wall in my laundry room last year. It is a little on the pricey side, but it works really well and gives a nice clean finish. The flow wall needs to screw directly into the studs to give the support needed, but certainly gives flexibility on where to put shelves, hooks, bins, etc.

    If you go the flow wall route, just make sure to do test out your hooks so you get it installed in the proper orientation. I installed a section only to realize that I had put it all on upside down. The take down and reinstall was easy, but I've got a bunch of extra holes in it now...
     
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  3. Dec 23, 2020 at 10:05 AM
    #3
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ O'Keefe Music Foundation Staff Member

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    We have this on some walls at work. Spendy, but very versatile and we really like it.
     
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  4. Dec 23, 2020 at 10:20 AM
    #4
    NoRcptn

    NoRcptn Better than mediocre poster

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    Just food for thought.

    -The Flowwall stuff is great the attachments can add up $.
    -OSB is really expensive right now $30-ish dollars for a 4x8 sheet.
    -Sheetrock is like $9 dollars a sheet.
    -Rubbermaid and husky make a lot of the same style hooks that screw directly in to OSb/Studs/Plywood.
     
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  5. Dec 23, 2020 at 10:55 AM
    #5
    jonclark96

    jonclark96 New Member

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    I wouldn't trust hanging much weight at all off of OSB alone. If your studs are open, you can easily put in some blocking before covering it with whatever you choose.
     
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  6. Dec 23, 2020 at 11:10 AM
    #6
    Speed_dmon

    Speed_dmon New Member

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    I was looking into flowall too and got some samples from them, in my research found out that Home Depot carries something similar by the brand name Gladiator
     
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  7. Dec 23, 2020 at 12:19 PM
    #7
    smslavin

    smslavin [OP] Behind a lens...

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    yes to all of that. i'm considering sheetrock but i don't have a whole lot of experience with it. mostly with finishing it.

    what's the best way to secure the blocking? screws or nails? angle in from the top or the bottom? i don't have any room to come in from the side.
     
  8. Dec 23, 2020 at 12:29 PM
    #8
    GravityGear

    GravityGear Parking Lot Prerunner

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  9. Dec 23, 2020 at 12:48 PM
    #9
    NoRcptn

    NoRcptn Better than mediocre poster

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  10. Dec 23, 2020 at 2:24 PM
    #10
    smslavin

    smslavin [OP] Behind a lens...

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  11. Dec 23, 2020 at 4:10 PM
    #11
    JohnLakeman

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    For small 2X4 framing projects, I use nothing but deck screws. Screws are much stronger, and do not loosen or pull out nearly as easy as nails. You can angle ("toe-nail") a deck screw with a lot more control than a 16d nail.

    Not enough room?...Standard stud spacing is 16", that leaves 14 1/2" space for a cordless drill w/bit. Figure out what heights you want blocking, then stagger the blocks to provide straight-in drill access on both ends of the block.
     
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  12. Dec 23, 2020 at 4:27 PM
    #12
    Dalandshark

    Dalandshark Infected with 5G

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    Unless they are structurally rated, screws have little shear strength. Fine for this instance but don’t build a house with them.
     
  13. Dec 23, 2020 at 4:59 PM
    #13
    smslavin

    smslavin [OP] Behind a lens...

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    yep, standard spacing should be 16. however, in this case, from the door frame to the first stud is 3.5". next stud is 28.5". then 2". then 26". the wall was definitely an afterthought to create a separate space in the basement for the furnace and water heater. i'm using the room as my storage locker/dark room as there is a functioning sink.
     
  14. Dec 23, 2020 at 5:19 PM
    #14
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    This video tests several different nails and screws for shear and pullout. The test results contradict the idea that screws shear easier than nails. Even lowly drywall screws do better than nails.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmajKElnwfE

    The biggest deterrents to using screws in framing a house would be (1) the cost of screws vs nails, and (2) the time for screw installation compared to using nail guns.
     
  15. Dec 23, 2020 at 8:26 PM
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    Dalandshark

    Dalandshark Infected with 5G

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    I think the phenomenon he is testing is pullout.... which will get him those results.

    Edit: sorry @smslavin for highjacking.
     
  16. Dec 24, 2020 at 5:48 AM
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    JohnLakeman

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    The video is an extreme test of fastener shear loading. No fastener tested fails in shear because they ALL pullout, or destroy the threads/wood before fastener shear. However, the screws are providing multiple times more pullout resistance. First, in a typical framing butt joint (2X fasteners), and then testing single fastener shear in the purest way with drilled hole in a steel plate.

    I have had long wallboard screws (and low-grade deck screws) fail by twisting the heads off before the screw was fully driven (torsion or rotational shear). :censored: This happens most often when the wood is dense hardwood like treated yellow pine, and not with the usual residential framing. If the wood is harder, denser, and stronger than your screws, torsional load has to be reduced by drilling pilot holes.

    @smslavin I understand the problem with 3", and 2.5" stud spacing. You can angle screws (or nails) in from the front edge of the block, but frankly blocking those narrow spaces is not worth the trouble. The bigger issue is having blocking at the height where you actually need it. That will almost require laying out the "heavy" wall storage areas before starting.

    As @NoRcptn says, pegboard, whatever the material, is problematic. I tried pegboard early in my adult life, and won't ever consider it again. I always seemed to have hundreds of hooks and attachments, but never the one I needed. The pegboard sellers' motto should be: "Give them the pegboard, sell them the attachments." YMMV
     
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  17. Dec 24, 2020 at 6:09 AM
    #17
    Backslider

    Backslider Thirsty...

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    Block some framing in between studs?

    You can either just toe nail everything in place or you could get a cheap pocket hole jig to make it nicer.

    I wouldn't hang a lot of weight from a single point on osb or plywood. If you have a way to distribute the weight over a broader area it will probably be fine.
     
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  18. Dec 24, 2020 at 6:27 AM
    #18
    Rubberdown

    Rubberdown Spilling my guts here.

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    Look at the garage journal. It’s a forum that specializes in this type of thing and they can steer you right.
     
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  19. Dec 24, 2020 at 6:29 AM
    #19
    smslavin

    smslavin [OP] Behind a lens...

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    hmm. i may add in some extra vertical 2x4s then as well. give me a few more spots for shelf anchoring. i know what i'm doing the next few days.

    ah. couldn't remember what that was called. perfect.
     
  20. Dec 24, 2020 at 6:44 AM
    #20
    Professional Hand Model

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    Most codes do not allow screws as a framing fastener (stud to stud). Also, framing nails have some bend in them allowing movement without cracking/snapping (like a drywall screw).
     
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  21. Dec 24, 2020 at 6:52 AM
    #21
    Vizsla

    Vizsla New Member

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    Agree. Doubt there are very many contractors trying to substitute the various structurally rated screws, let alone spend the time explaining to an inspector who might not understand. I only used them if called for.
    https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2018/chapter-6-wall-construction
     
  22. Dec 24, 2020 at 8:05 AM
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    JohnLakeman

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    Technically, I suppose OP would need a permit for this construction. I'm sure he will do the right thing. :D
     
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  23. Dec 24, 2020 at 8:22 AM
    #23
    NoRcptn

    NoRcptn Better than mediocre poster

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    Have any pic of the wall and total size? Door? Windows? or just a straight wall?
     
  24. Dec 24, 2020 at 11:46 AM
    #24
    smslavin

    smslavin [OP] Behind a lens...

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    uh. permit to hang some shelves and hooks on a non structural wall that someone added way before we moved in?

    this is the wall from inside the storage room. the grey box near the duct work appears to be an alarm system that was never completed.

    9184C4B6-DD97-418F-99F2-1D2F9E6E6ED0.jpg

    the outside is just wood panelling that would have been in your parent‘a basement in the 70s. looks like the flippers we bought from painted it.
     
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  25. Dec 24, 2020 at 2:31 PM
    #25
    NoRcptn

    NoRcptn Better than mediocre poster

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    4902D902-2A72-49BC-86BA-CC93C8D3BF41.jpg 58BE263A-AF26-4EF0-8CE4-78379F2163FD.jpg 84293E63-3C06-41E9-8A60-48EB3D3A12B7.jpg Oh ok! An easy option that you could do is get
    1”x4”x6’ pine trim boards super cheap. You can place them across the studs and use something super simple like the Rubbermaid fast track and place them wherever you want. They have a ton of accessory hooks, baskets, organizer bins that you can attach wherever you want. Just google fastrack accessories. You might even be able to print out some of your bad ass pictures on poster board and slap it up between the studs behind the travks for some background. :)
     
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