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Flash-to-Open Mod

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by bobeast, May 29, 2016.

  1. May 29, 2016 at 3:21 PM
    #1
    bobeast

    bobeast [OP] really old member

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    I'm wondering what genius decided that the rear-view mirror was a good place to put Garage door opener buttons? I always have to press the buttons very gingerly to avoid knocking the mirror out of alignment. This mod will allow you flash your brights some preset number of times in order to open (or close) your garage door or gate.

    1) obtain the following parts or equivalent.

    Voltage Converter
    http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B00C66JTPI?ie=UTF8&keywords=12v to 9V converter&qid=1464555964&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

    This module simply drops the +12v supplied by the TR7 down to +9v required by the remote.

    Pac TR7 module
    http://www.amazon.com/PAC-TR-7-Univ..._1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464556073&sr=8-1&keywords=tr7

    You'll program this module for feature #14 according to the included instructions. You can decide how many flashes you want to trigger the opener. I recommend at least 2. This is to avoid the garage door opening or closing if you simply turn on your brights. The TR7 counts "On" as one pulse, even if you do not turn them back off. (I chose 2)


    Opener remote (verify compatibility with your own opener)
    http://www.amazon.com/Linear-MCS308...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

    Any opener remote that is compatible with your particular garage door, and which runs on a 9V battery will work.

    2) Prepare the remote;
    a) Program the remote to open your garage door. (The example unit above uses dip switches)
    b) Remove the 9V battery
    c) Remove the remote circuit board from its case and solder a bridge wire across the open button contacts.
    d) Cut off the 9V battery connector and extend the red and black wires by a few inches.
    e) Put the remote board back in its case, and close it up, making sure the red and black wires extend outside the case.

    3) Program the TR7 to feature #14, with the desired number of flashes.

    4) Wire it all up according to the following diagram. You may want to use sticky-tape to attach the 3 modules together for a nice compact package. I mounted mine under the hood near the Brake booster.

    flash-to-open.jpg

    edit: The Voltage converter module actually has 2 black wires which is not shown in the diagram. Just make sure to connect both of them to ground.

    edit, edit: You probably want to mount this where it is certain to stay dry. Either that, or put all the components inside a weatherproof project box.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2016
    CaptTyler likes this.
  2. May 29, 2016 at 4:06 PM
    #2
    Wynnded

    Wynnded Wait, what?

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    Dude....you're on a roll. I wish I had my own garage door.
     
  3. May 29, 2016 at 4:27 PM
    #3
    RowdyRon

    RowdyRon Not too old to play

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    Deck rail system, Bed divider, door sill protectors, LED reverse light bars, Aries Bull Bar with 28" 180 watt LED light bar, LED step lights, LED bed lights, driver-side grab handle, TRD Rear Sway Bar, BedRug bed mat and tailgate mat, Morimoto Fog Lights, more to come.....
    Dang, "Professor"! You are on a roll! Every time I use my garage door opener I have to tap the mirror around to where I had it. I had considered going back to the old visor-mount remote but I like this idea much more. Any special location to tap into the high beam? I'm seriously considering doing this.
     
  4. May 29, 2016 at 5:42 PM
    #4
    bobeast

    bobeast [OP] really old member

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    - Bull Bar, - HID Bunny Burners - AMP retractable running boards, - Headlight leveling retrofit - P1 Brake Controller - 60% rear seat delete - relocation of Sub to rear wall. - 3/1 leveling kit - Firestone Air bags - on-board compressor with auto-leveling, - Dual Undercover Swing Boxes. - P285/65/R20 (34.6") BFG TA KO2's - TRD Front skid plate - Pop & Lock Tailgate lock (soon) - Remote Tailgate mod (soon) - LED Headlights (soon) - Nav Bypass - iPhone integration - Serius/XM retrofit
    I just tapped right off the driver-side headlight bulb harness. The wire that goes to +12v when the brights are on.
     
  5. May 29, 2016 at 5:53 PM
    #5
    CaptTyler

    CaptTyler www.fishcharlotteharbor.com

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    Just when I thought I've seen every mod! Dang man nice work.
     
  6. May 29, 2016 at 6:05 PM
    #6
    RowdyRon

    RowdyRon Not too old to play

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    Thanks, Bob! Waiting to see what you come up with next!:thumbsup: I guess you could also tap into the high beam fuse with an add-a-circuit tap in the under hood fuse box as well couldn't you?
     
  7. May 29, 2016 at 6:11 PM
    #7
    bobeast

    bobeast [OP] really old member

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    Hey, at least you have your Tundra, which as we all know, is the most important thing :)
     
    Wynnded likes this.
  8. May 29, 2016 at 6:12 PM
    #8
    bobeast

    bobeast [OP] really old member

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    Yep. that should work, and would probably be a bit cleaner.
     
  9. May 29, 2016 at 8:13 PM
    #9
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    The wife's 4Runner doesn't have a garage opener. Was thinking of how I could wire up a button somewhere. She won't put the opener on the visor. Might try something like this.
     
  10. May 29, 2016 at 8:16 PM
    #10
    Sean266

    Sean266 #ThinBlueLine Staff Member

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    DONT put the opener on the visor or anywhere visible.
     
  11. May 29, 2016 at 8:30 PM
    #11
    bobeast

    bobeast [OP] really old member

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    I hadn't really thought about it, but you're right. This should pretty much work on any vehicle
     
  12. May 29, 2016 at 8:41 PM
    #12
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    The other thing to note is it doesn't have to be brights. You could set this to any button or switch that provides power when switched on. Lights, fog lights, radio, etc, etc. correct me if I'm wrong bob.
     
  13. May 29, 2016 at 8:47 PM
    #13
    bobeast

    bobeast [OP] really old member

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    Good point. The TR7 sees any on event (+12v) as a pulse. Heck, you could use a momentary AirOnBoard switch ("Passenger Eject" is my favorite) and be all stealth like. In that case, you'd just program the TR7 for one pulse, or even eliminate the TR7 altogether. Its also worth noting that the TR7 also includes a negative (Brown) trigger wire, if you'd rather use some grounding event to trigger the opener.
     
  14. Nov 17, 2016 at 7:00 PM
    #14
    bobeast

    bobeast [OP] really old member

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  15. Nov 17, 2016 at 10:23 PM
    #15
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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  16. Nov 17, 2016 at 10:26 PM
    #16
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    @bobeast do you have a pic of your completed device?
     
  17. Nov 18, 2016 at 7:24 PM
    #17
    bobeast

    bobeast [OP] really old member

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    - Bull Bar, - HID Bunny Burners - AMP retractable running boards, - Headlight leveling retrofit - P1 Brake Controller - 60% rear seat delete - relocation of Sub to rear wall. - 3/1 leveling kit - Firestone Air bags - on-board compressor with auto-leveling, - Dual Undercover Swing Boxes. - P285/65/R20 (34.6") BFG TA KO2's - TRD Front skid plate - Pop & Lock Tailgate lock (soon) - Remote Tailgate mod (soon) - LED Headlights (soon) - Nav Bypass - iPhone integration - Serius/XM retrofit
    Sorry. Its tucked in the dash behind the switch. I'll try to get a picture the next time I open it up. Regarding that switch, I'm pretty sure the Tundras and the 4-Runner use the same size switches.
     
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