Firmer shifts after pan drain and fill

Same

 

Pan was very clean but I think the fluid was changed once before I got it.

 

That is good to know

 

Please be very careful with your shin. None of us want to see you confined to a wheelchair.

 

UPDATE.
It’s been 1,000 miles with no change... I ordered a sonnax zip kit. It probably won’t make it by this Saturday so it will be a next weekend project. I’ll take pics and do a write up if anyone is curious.

 

Looks like this weekend is gone be a joy!

 

Anxious to see outcome...

 

Went ahead and got out the stainless work bench and cleaned it up.

 

Got the valve body pulled today after work. Only thing that fell out was the three washers, drain back valve, and the smallest accumulator. Over all not that difficult so far

 

Wow, your fluid looked SO clean...until that gnarly black crap leaked out of the valve body ends. What's up with that?

 

Its clean as well. It just looked dirty in that pic

 

Question about the rear end, on your truck. Do you notice a delay or jerk sometimes when stopped and then throttle is applied?? I have just purchased my 08 and have been noticing this jerk, and have related it to the rear end playin the ford f-150's which is real common for those trucks. Anyway, Im thinking the rear end may need rebuilt, but im also now wondering if it has a play in the way im feeling the tranny shift too.

 

What do you mean by pinning the cooler? I have never heard of that before. Thanks

 

Tundras 2010-2018 with tow package will have a thermostat for the transmission mounted warmer-cooler that sends ATF to a air-to-oil heat exchanger built into the top of the AC condenser. Pinning the thermostat means to open that thermostat completely by depressing a spring-loaded plunger on the thermostat so that all ATF flows to the front heat exchanger for cooling. Video link below from youTube video shows the thermostat plunger being depressed and pinned in position with a paper clip.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLVZSoKbyZ0&feature=youtu.be&t=26

 

Spoiler alert! Full valve body rebuild and still got my “firm” shifts. At least I have a piece of mind that it’s not my trans. Or at least my valve body .

 

So how hard of a job was it? I have to replace my torque converter (there was a recall on the 2007 and mine never got replaced) as the lock up portion of it isn't working correctly. I was thinking of either doing the valve body myself or sending the body out and having it done.

 

It’s not for the faint of heart. I dissembled all the valves from top to bottom and cleaned the passage ways so it took quite some time. Some valves were easier than others. One was stubborn as crap and took me almost a hour to get back in.

the one circled was the stubborn one.

 

This is the last step you have to perform . So maybe after I get the memory reset it will do right. If they open tomorrow I may try and get it done.

 

I did find a piece of trash in the B1 accumulator. Other than that it was spotless.

Edit: I’m not 100% sure it even came out the accumulator bore. But I found it on the table when I was dissembling the B1.
When I removed the retaining pin it did not feel bound up or stuck. It move freely with no gritty feeing.

 

There is a LOT of room for error. With 18 check balls 30 end caps, 9 solenoids, and a ton of valves and springs . It was challenging but doable with enough time and patience. When I put it all back together and went for my first test drive I was expecting it not to shift and blow up! But it worked and did not explode.

 

RESPECT!!! Not sure if I have enough balls to try this myself.

 

That. Is. Awesome. Congrats.

 

I had the same problem when i come to a stop and release the brake pedal i felt a jerk. I did a drain and fill on transmission 5 times and than i did a brake job at the same time i never felt it again.

 

No it don’t. It did quite bad on my previous Tacoma though. Every x amount of miles I would have to pull the yoke and grease the shaft.

 

I looked some into it. The Zip Kit will set you back $250. For about $850 you can send the valve body out and have it bored to remove any wear and remove any doubt.

 

Yep. I wanted John with itp to rebuild mine but he said that all the valve bodies he builds is performance. So they will shift harder than stock. And all I want is stock shifts.

 

I have heard of people saying that a pin in the carrier walks out and causes a clinking/tapping sound and then self destructs. From the description this doesn't sound the same as causing a driveshaft clunk. A long way down the line if I get bored enough in this quarantine if I'm successful at re-gearing the 2017 I'll tear the 07 third member down to inspect and possibly swap the 2017 carrier into it or Auburn pro carrier if I find any issues.

 

I had my trans memory cleared earlier today. Didn’t notice any difference on the 35 mile ride home. Idk what to do other than just drive the dang truck and not let my OCD continue to riddle me. It really don’t even matter, I’m sure I will be back in a Tacoma or 4runner sooner or later.