Finally got the ok for a Supercharger

Thanks that will be my first question when I call on Monday

 

Maybe I got lucky, but Brian added it to my quote without me asking.

 

National Speed called yesterday about the Maggie sc box on a Harrop blower, remember this was a Salesman not a mechanic...said he had not heard of this before and was making notes to give to the shop manager for scheduling. I think I will hold off an opinion about that until I can talk to the shop manager, maybe he was new. Still waiting on the Maggy box to ship from SCOL before I schedule the installation, looks like the Stillen box will be available if anyone is interested and I still have the factory box also.

 

Just got the call from National Speed the Harrop will arrive at the shop tomorrow, scheduling will be first or second week of October as I am still waiting on the Maggie sc airbox from SCOL to ship, sometime around the 22nd of this month. Still trying to decide which side to install the bung on...driver will require removal of front shaft, passenger is easier to access. I know I have asked before but what would be better, spend the extra money for the driver side or do the easier passenger side? As far as tuning what should I look for , boost,afr,hp,tq...just want to make shure I have some understanding when they tune it...thanks to everyone who has contributed can't wait to get it done...Dave

 

Curious to hear what the experienced pros say.

TLDR/BLUF: Main thing is check for codes. If there is an issue it will show up there first in most cases. AFR is up there too as it is a good indication something may be off; below 14.7 approaching 9-10 as you approach full open throttle. With exception above 14.7 outside of coasting could indicate a problem.

RE: Bung: Can't answer the bung question but I know one side tends to run leaner (which I though was the passenger side) I would want to monitor the lean side personally. I don't think the variation between the two sides is significant enough to matter which is why I think watching the leaner side is more important.

RE: Tuning: For Stage 2 I was about ~+200WHP over baseline of +325 WHP or in that range. So depends on what your base run is +200WHP. You can look at it as a +60% over baseline too, anything over +50% is a big difference. TQ was just slightly lower than HP in my case. Most of the curves we are seeing ramp up and start to go flat after ~2K with slight gains all the way up until redline so you are getting a wide band of power.

Boost will vary on alt, temp and humidity. Don't worry about this too much unless you have some leak somewhere. Pulley size is the biggest factor to making boost; smaller pulley= more boost. It will be negative at start and idle; you'll have to dig into the pedal to get it in boost/over zero. I would guess folks are generally at 8# to 12#s off peak boost but varies from set up to set up. They didn't provide boost metrics and I didn't have the capability to measure it before going to a larger TB.

A lot of factors go into this but a general rule larger blowers, larger intakes, larger pulleys and larger TBs will tend to make smaller boost numbers (even if they are moving more air in some cases) to comparable set ups with smaller equivalents.

AFR is really the number you want to mind. If 14.7 is the perfect air fuel ratio anything higher is lean (not enough fuel is too lean and can be dangerous) anything lower is rich (too much fuel can also damage but to my knowledge not catastrophically like going lean). You'll never stay at perfect 14.7 so it will fluctuate and will go lean when coasting/let off the gas.

At full open throttle I've seen it advised to sit at around 10 but I've seen lower as low as 9 stated; I don't know the exact number offhand. Reason for rich AFR is the rings are tight, extra fueling helps cool everything down to prevent cracking rings lands. If you aren't doing back to back full open throttle pulls I think there is some wiggle room here but that 9 to 10 range seems to be the safe target though I've seen some folks rocking 11 AFRs at FWOT. 12+ seems to be a one way ticket to grenade town.

 

Thanks Saltyhero13, you always have good information to share. I never had my truck on a dyno don't know what to look for on a printout. You have had experience with National Speed I would think they would tune conservatively so they don't grenade it.

 

AFR bung passenger side here worked well for me.

 

No worries. I hope it is accurate or someone can correct any errors I made in my comment.

I was very nervous when I pulled the trigger on getting a blower installed especially "Stage 1". Completely understand the concerns and questions you have.

Yeah they seem to go conservative on the builds. Your gauges will help spot anything out of place but really it is all in the tune and that tuner they use is very experienced. He has done a lot of Tundras too. One of the guys on here has had several vehicles tuned by him. Different shops will have different guidelines; PS pushes their builds for speed so they have very low AFR recommendations on their blog.

NS should provide you a base run and a final smoothed run. The delta between them is what you are looking for but I would guess you'll be north of 500WHP or very close if not over.

 

Looking forward to your dyno results since it will basically be the same setup as mine to a T aside from maybe the catback exhaust. Although more boost may just be in my future. Anywhere near 500whp on their chassis dyno would be a win to me. As for the wideband O2 sensor, might as well put it wherever it’s easiest.

 

Thanks...you guys are the best, guess I'm excited and nervous about this endeavor

 

I'll add that passenger side wideband is the way to go. Especially if only doing one side and not modifying the fuel rail.

 

You'll be smiling all the way home. Gassing up these pigs is the only thing that sucks.

 

Funny you say that,always have run premium fuel since new...it's a Ben Franklin every fill up

 

Speaking as the resident Forest Gump of forced induction, I'll add to all the correct information above:

Zero engine codes after tuning. do not compromise on this. All my shit works*. zero codes.

Air Fuel Ratio..have it cruise at 14.7ish...once you get to PE (25-30% pedal), you better see 10-10.5. AFR tells you if the bull is shitting in the buckwheat. if you floor it, and you see anything higher than 11, you ain't right. as @Saltyhero13 said, your piston rings will heat & expand & things break. Toyota rings don't like too much heat.

for the next few weeks after install, check your damn intercooler fluid. you will need to top off till the bubbles dissipate.

Catch can.....ppphhtt....had mine of for months & zippo, nada, nothing.


quit worrying. it's a blast.

on ramps are the best.



life is good. S/C'rs make it better.



*cruise control is a joy.... see, the cruise control module does not know there is a S/C on it. so it's a tad more violent when it goes up a hill or speeds back up.

 

Do you know which catch can you have?
There are two you can get for our trucks: CCV and PCV. CCVs usually run dry from what I've seen posted. The engine recirculates the vapors/gases back in somehow; there was a nice diagram in one of the catch can threads that shows how Toyota handled it.

PCV side is the only one that usually fills up over time. I usually get some residual build up between oil changes but not a whole lot.

 

PCV - the one that connects under the snout.

I guess it's dry because it's Africa hot in Houston, and most of the schmeg is just water.

 

Dumb question- Is it safer to run both since both seem to filter differently?

 

You can run both but as mentioned the pcv one is the one that accumulates. We went down to one on the old man’s rig from the dual.

 

Not dumb.
You can run both but the CCV is usually bone dry. I've not seen anyone report any accumulation after looking through several posts on these and other Tundra forums.

 

Oh that makes sense why you don't see anything. I do get some oil accumulation but not much.

Lol schmeg is a perfect term for it. Going to tell the oil changer to empty my schmeg next time.

 

Going to run the Innovate PSB-1 to monitor afr/boost where should the bung go after the primary cat,next to existing sensor, sorry haven't read the instructions for installation going to have National Speed install it. Trying to make shure to get Everything in order and writing so it will be correct, sometimes people get lazy and just do things halfway.

 

Mine is installed next to the stock sensor. Instructions say a few inches after the collector mounted on the top 50% of the tube so water won't drain into the sensor, and that is also where the factory one is.

 

Seperator case diagram from this post: https://www.tundras.com/threads/catch-can-summary-pcv-ccv.96935/#post-2461150

 

Well guys the Harrop has arrived at National Speed, still waiting on the airbox from SCOL should ship 9/22. Looks like first of October for install will keep everyone posted. I also ordered the 77.5 pulley from Harrop today

 

Right for the double digit boost, you dog you.

 

I'm Late to the Party.....gotta make up lost time

 

It’s the right way to do it honestly. It’s what I should have done from the get go instead of messing with “stage 1”.

 

You ,Salty, Ray, and several others on this forum are to Blame....I meant THANK

 

What do you guys think, just getting ready for the install......just right...too much ...let me know.